V70: Engine V70 GenIII 185 D5 Power Loss & Warning Light

[homepheus]

Good Morning All,

#warandpeacealert

So, it has come to the point where I need to reach out to the world for help. Here's hoping someone can...

...It's a late 2007 3rd Generation 185 V70 D5 & a high miler at 173k (I have had 120k in the barge, though not entirely problem free, it has been a pleasure to own & drive)

Trouble started back in March, when I was taking the car for a service (it knew, like a dog nearing the vet). Literally 200yds from my local independent, it started losing power catastrophically, until it ground, literally, to a halt. I had to have it towed to the garage. Here's what was done at this visit & the subsequent 7 (yup, seven) visits in the last 3 months:

DPF replaced (so that will get shot of the periodic soot filter warnings, er, nope!)
Swirl assembly replaced
fuel filter changed
MAF cleaned
EGR cleaned
EGR replaced (inc. cooler)
EGR actuator replaced
Control valve on top of EGR replaced
Injectors tested (OK!)
Smoke test for leaks (OK!)
Turbo inlet pipe OK
Turbo actuator refurbished
Boost pressure sensor replaced
Turbo vanes cleaned

The thing is running like an absolute dog now. The soot filter warning is permanently on. Last night the engine warning light (not the message(s) about service needed/urgent) on the top left came on. It is permanently in limp & the accelerator might as well not be there.

Having thrown many 4 figures at it, it is worse than I has ever been (except when it stopped altogether, to be fair)

It seems to have every fault code that it can muster (boost too high, boost too low), I have run out of paper to record them all, but here's a few to chew on: P023800 - P023483 - P023468

I am sure there are other things that have been done, but I've probably grown bored of reading the service notes now. #witsend

In between the visits, the turbo took on a new persona & started the flutter/owling after boost & lift off, which it has never done before, also it's whistling more than it ever did. The engine is running more lumpy than it ever did. The fuel economy has dropped by 17% & the whole engine is just more noisy. Oh & as soon as the 'key' is turned to start, there's a notchy 'graunch' sort of sound coming from somewhere around the EGR, for about 5 seconds. So some actuator on start up is making a noise.

I'm properly hacked off with it & just want it to run OK so I can chop it in for a moped or something simple.

I am wondering whether the blue sticker on the steering wheel boss is a pivotal component, as this fell off about 6 weeks ago & also the front registration plate has some dead flies on it. I'm properly clutching at straws now

Please folks, any ideas where to turn?

Many thanks both for your patience & assistance

Jack

**Quick addendum: Found some other codes found, but stuff has been replaced since then, so they may not be valid - re-read is my next step: P040484 EGR - P023800 Turbo boost sensor - P023484 Turbo - P023468 Turbo - P245800 DPF

Codes read on ESI [tronic] 2.0 V11

[tommyweaves]

Oh dear. Have you tried taking it to a main dealer through all this saga just to have them hoop it up to their diagnostics and see if they can see anything?

For a nominal £60 or so that's worth a simple punt, particularly in light of the thousands you've already (probably unnecessarily) spent.

In terms of my immediate thoughts on the problem:

There seems very little you've not already tried/investigated. To have so many codes in such a short space of time/simultaneously suggests a component that affects a lot of other areas. I've read about low battery volts causing all sorts of issues for example. That's a simple check although I doubt it's the cause of your problem. Therefore I'm thinking a faulty ECU/EMU or similar centrally important element that doesn't know it's not well. A bit like Diane Abbott running your engine.

[tommyweaves]

Assume the fuel filter has been changed etc?!

[jeffmasson]

They probably didn't reset the dpf when they changed it as they don't have vida so the car still thinks it has the old one and is get confused.

Has to be reset with vida when a new one is fitted. And also needs vida for resetting turbo vanes and egr.

[homepheus]

Right Folks, here we go.

BIG UP JERRY at JPM Motor Repairs in Honiton. He's an ex-diesel doctor & a legend in his field. cleared the codes & took the barge for a spin. Normal under/over boost, DPF, oil level & EGR codes, but the car 'drove' differently to what the codes were suggesting. He drove it & recorded the maps. Low revs, high gear spool up & high rev low gear screaming etc. Across the range.

Here's where the expertise prevails. Much head scratching & "I wonder if..." suggestions. 2 actual faults found:

1 - Throttle valve sticky at mid range. No great shakes, as it sits at fully open, but doesn't work as it should.
2 - Pressure differential sensor faulty - showing (a) excessive voltage consumption & more alarmingly (b) massive differential in pressure 3-66436Mbar - which I think NASA would be interested in, as it's clearly made of a new polymer which can withstand immense pressure. So it was properly lying. This telling the brain that the DPF is causing large pressure difference between the input & output sides & therefore slapping up a SOOT FILTER warning & sending the motor into limp.

The sensor was sorted & the soot warning has not re-appeared since; neither has it entered limp. But, it's still not fully powering up, so the vanes in the turbo could
still be sticky, as the range was flapping between c. 20% to 100% each second. We agreed that this is not likely to be actually happening, so there's some doubt as to the turbo's condition. It shouldn't be the actuator, as that has been rebuilt, along with the actuator position module, so shouldn't be lying.

While not back to its old self, it is WAAAY better than it was this morning. Thanks Jerry!

I have a pre-loved turbo on its way, with a paired actuator. Will sit this on the bench & test / clean first to see how it operates electronically, then clag the thing on. See where that takes us.

p.s. I love words

[homepheus]

So here's a query.

Throttle body & valve = £300 (say) with £150 to fit it. Ouch

There is a VERY VERY similar looking throttle body for a Mondeo (FoMoCo again) 2.5T (Petrol) and they are £peanuts by comparison. Some questions arise:

1 - Is it possible to use the Mondeo part instead of the Volvo part, directly?
2 - I appreciate that the Petrol valve rest state is CLOSED, whereas the diesel is OPEN. Surely it wouldn't be beyond the wit of man to make the petrol unit's rest state to be OPEN...?
3 - If it is simply the plastic cog inside the electric actuator, is it possible to take the good one from the Mondeo valve & stick it in the Volvo unit. If so, anyone done it & how?

I know they don't need to be married to the car via software, as they are (fortunately) not mega-electronic, so that's a bonus.

Any ideas folks? Cheers

MONDEO PART = BOSCH 0280750146
VOLVO PART = BOSCH 0281002701

[tommyweaves]

.

Probably best ask super Jerry.

[v70D52445T]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=Xyptm_YZEYM this is probobly how your turbo looks like from the inside, after a clean up (part 3 of this series) you can see that there is more flex int the Variable nozzle turbine (VNT for short) wich volvo has in their diesels to reduce turbo lag.