Overheating

arcturus · Jul 7th, 2011, 13:58

Well not really.144s, B20b engine. I have been having problems with the rad expansion bottle. If I am standing with the engine running at lights etc the expansion bottle overflows and loses water. Also when I switch off the bottle fills up and overflows. No problem whilst driving. It's the "deep neck" bottle with 4lb pressure. I have fitted a new cap but it still does it. New waterpump and 'stat. Should i change to the "short neck" bottle and 10 lb cap or should I be looking elsewhere.

Michael J · Jul 7th, 2011, 14:02

What is the antifreeze/water mixture ratio currently at?

arcturus · Jul 7th, 2011, 17:29

I believe that it's straight a/f. The garage filled it when they re instaled the engine and I saw them top it up from a container. Also 82* 'stat

Derek UK · Jul 7th, 2011, 19:00

Check that the top of the bottle isn't distorted. The distortion maybe enough for the tabs on the cap not to hold properly on the tapered sections of the cap.

arcturus · Jul 7th, 2011, 19:47

The cap seems to be a good tight fit.

john h · Jul 8th, 2011, 08:04

Basics - check the fanbelt is adjusted correctly.

It could be that the radiator is silted up and giving insufficient cooling when the car staionary.

Do you have a viscous clutch fan, or solid drive? If the former, maybe it is slipping too much?

Is the fan shroud the right size for the fan (a close fit) and is it fitted correctly so the fan pulls air through the radiator?

I presume from the thread title that the temp gauge is showing the the engine is getting hot?

I recall that Citizen Agfa on here had some issues with excessive cooling system pressure on his 144. Can't remember what fixed his in the end, but it took a while. Worth checking back through his old posts, or sending him a PM, if the more obvious fixes above don't work.

John

arcturus · Jul 8th, 2011, 09:24

Solid clutch, no shroud. Label indicates new rad 07/04. Belt tension fine. Guage shows temp' fine whilst driving but goes into high when idling or switching off when hot.

Derek UK · Jul 8th, 2011, 11:53

Warming up when idling maybe a poor water pump, especially if the tickover is set very low. Can you bring the temp back down buy raising the revs to, say 1000rpm? As you probably don't use the heater too much where you are you may have an obstinate air bubble in the system. Bleed with heater fully on. Check the lever on the valve, under the dash, to see that it is actually opening properly.
The rise in temp after switch off is normal due to heat soak. Gauge is "mechanical2 and reads at the back of the head which heats up after the coolant circulation stops. Should start to come down slowly after a few minutes, depending on the ambient temperature.

john h · Jul 8th, 2011, 23:10

I would think there should be a shroud. Without one, the fan is just moving air around behind the radiator, not drawing through it. That could be your problem.

John

arcturus · Jul 9th, 2011, 08:52

Never seen one on a 140. Would it be behind the rad (engine side ) or in front?

Jul 7th, 2011, 13:58	#1
arcturus arcturus Last Online: Today 08:22 Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Sagres Portugal	Overheating Well not really.144s, B20b engine. I have been having problems with the rad expansion bottle. If I am standing with the engine running at lights etc the expansion bottle overflows and loses water. Also when I switch off the bottle fills up and overflows. No problem whilst driving. It's the "deep neck" bottle with 4lb pressure. I have fitted a new cap but it still does it. New waterpump and 'stat. Should i change to the "short neck" bottle and 10 lb cap or should I be looking elsewhere. __________________ life's too short to drink bad wine

Jul 7th, 2011, 14:02	#2
Michael J Master Member Last Online: Jan 21st, 2018 16:48 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Nottingham	What is the antifreeze/water mixture ratio currently at? __________________ rollin' rollin' rollin'

Jul 7th, 2011, 17:29	#3
arcturus arcturus Last Online: Today 08:22 Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Sagres Portugal	I believe that it's straight a/f. The garage filled it when they re instaled the engine and I saw them top it up from a container. Also 82* 'stat __________________ life's too short to drink bad wine Last edited by arcturus; Jul 7th, 2011 at 17:33.

Jul 7th, 2011, 19:47	#5
arcturus arcturus Last Online: Today 08:22 Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Sagres Portugal	The cap seems to be a good tight fit. __________________ life's too short to drink bad wine

Jul 8th, 2011, 08:04	#6
john h VOC Member Last Online: Jun 18th, 2024 20:25 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Huddersfield View Photos By: john h	Basics - check the fanbelt is adjusted correctly. It could be that the radiator is silted up and giving insufficient cooling when the car staionary. Do you have a viscous clutch fan, or solid drive? If the former, maybe it is slipping too much? Is the fan shroud the right size for the fan (a close fit) and is it fitted correctly so the fan pulls air through the radiator? I presume from the thread title that the temp gauge is showing the the engine is getting hot? I recall that Citizen Agfa on here had some issues with excessive cooling system pressure on his 144. Can't remember what fixed his in the end, but it took a while. Worth checking back through his old posts, or sending him a PM, if the more obvious fixes above don't work. John __________________ XX

Jul 7th, 2011, 19:00	#4
Derek UK VOC Member Last Online: Yesterday 14:25 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Chatham	Check that the top of the bottle isn't distorted. The distortion maybe enough for the tabs on the cap not to hold properly on the tapered sections of the cap.

Jul 8th, 2011, 09:24	#7
arcturus arcturus Last Online: Today 08:22 Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Sagres Portugal	Solid clutch, no shroud. Label indicates new rad 07/04. Belt tension fine. Guage shows temp' fine whilst driving but goes into high when idling or switching off when hot. __________________ life's too short to drink bad wine

Jul 8th, 2011, 11:53	#8
Derek UK VOC Member Last Online: Yesterday 14:25 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Chatham	Warming up when idling maybe a poor water pump, especially if the tickover is set very low. Can you bring the temp back down buy raising the revs to, say 1000rpm? As you probably don't use the heater too much where you are you may have an obstinate air bubble in the system. Bleed with heater fully on. Check the lever on the valve, under the dash, to see that it is actually opening properly. The rise in temp after switch off is normal due to heat soak. Gauge is "mechanical2 and reads at the back of the head which heats up after the coolant circulation stops. Should start to come down slowly after a few minutes, depending on the ambient temperature.

Jul 8th, 2011, 23:10	#9
john h VOC Member Last Online: Jun 18th, 2024 20:25 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Huddersfield View Photos By: john h	I would think there should be a shroud. Without one, the fan is just moving air around behind the radiator, not drawing through it. That could be your problem. John __________________ XX

Jul 9th, 2011, 08:52	#10
arcturus arcturus Last Online: Today 08:22 Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Sagres Portugal	Never seen one on a 140. Would it be behind the rad (engine side ) or in front? __________________ life's too short to drink bad wine

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