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S60 core plug strip down

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Old Feb 27th, 2014, 01:33   #1
D5meister
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Default S60 core plug strip down

I started stipping mine today for core plug, rear main and probably DMF + clutch.

I am taking pics as I go.

If anyone wants pics of strip or specific removal tips - just say


Got most engine bay stuff out today ~ 3 hrs - I put every bolt back in hole

so I done end up with a few odds!
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Old Mar 1st, 2014, 12:34   #2
D5meister
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The part numbers

core plug 8687868
rear main seal 9458178
driveshaft seals 6843481

And visually..
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File Type: jpg IMG_0362.JPG (141.7 KB, 148 views)
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Old Mar 3rd, 2014, 00:35   #3
D5meister
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As this is complex I want to break it into chunks

The first pictures are to enable people to get back to the point they were at before they started, a reference.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg start.JPG (56.6 KB, 224 views)
File Type: jpg LHS.JPG (48.3 KB, 216 views)
File Type: jpg MID.JPG (42.1 KB, 203 views)
File Type: jpg RHS.JPG (50.5 KB, 198 views)
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Old Mar 3rd, 2014, 01:05   #4
D5meister
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I can only manage about 2~3 hours before may back has enough and I leavr this a day or two while I consider my next move.

Below was 2 1/2 hrs pf steady and slow,



The first things I took off were bulky

Air filter and fuse box in order to see the box.

Lots of wires plugs and larger air hoses.


I was nervous about stressing the flexi joint on the front pipe so split the exhaust at the turbo. 3 nuts and a bolt.

I took my pipe off as this work revealed a crack.

pop the gear selectors off an I undid the 2 bolts holding the gear selector bracket to box and zip tird it to firewall.

more wires and plugs etc.

good look at box.

Rest .
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1 filter and fuse lids.JPG (60.7 KB, 228 views)
File Type: jpg 3 filter and fuse box out.JPG (58.8 KB, 217 views)
File Type: jpg 15.JPG (44.0 KB, 226 views)
File Type: jpg 16.JPG (57.0 KB, 212 views)
File Type: jpg 21.JPG (60.2 KB, 210 views)
File Type: jpg 24.JPG (71.7 KB, 211 views)
File Type: jpg 27.JPG (34.7 KB, 220 views)
File Type: jpg box from above.JPG (60.5 KB, 215 views)
File Type: jpg cross brace off.JPG (55.1 KB, 217 views)
File Type: jpg filter and fuse box out.JPG (65.3 KB, 212 views)
File Type: jpg gear sel tied up.JPG (63.2 KB, 201 views)
File Type: jpg turbo sheild off.JPG (43.6 KB, 210 views)
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Old Mar 3rd, 2014, 01:41   #5
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Day 2

Was another 3hrs

Took the x braces off the exaust split joint in middle of car, 2 nuts on flange , pluled the 2 rubbers and removed front pipe , as has crack and needs stainless welding.

Bulk of this work was in passenger arch.

Drained box oil.

Wheel off,
track rod and drop link you will need to put allen key in end to stop it spinning and use a tube on the allen key for leverage, spanner to undo nut.

One has a torx 40 I think.



brake caliper, disc,

Bottom ball joint - reqs counterhold again with key to stop joint rotating with nut. Leave joint together for now.


split strut on 2 big bolts leave in without nuts for now

( reqs a 21mm and an 18mm socket and longer handle wrnches for ease I used torque wrenck and breaker bar)= tip clean rust off these bolt threads as they get squeaky tight and hot if dusty and rusty.

undo top mount 3 nuts - hold spring, and support hub - pushing hub towards the box - ( to keep the cv joits from separating , as they float )

pull the 2 big bolts and slide shock/spring away from hub and lift shock/ spring out.

Try not let the hub flop toward you as again cv joint can open up and if they do, they often dont go back in right place and will break up first test drive !!!

Under the car use a pry tool. A screwdriver is a bit small, I used a mini crowbar to pop the back of the inner cv joint body away from the box.

Place your lever in the small gap between the box and the metal cv joint - do NOT pull at these from the front!!!

You will hear a SNAP followed by visible movement. Lever out 5mm of shiny shaft. The SNAP is the retaining circlip popping out of the holding recess in the box.

In the arch, lift the hub lower ball joint from the wishbone and pull the Metal body of the inner CV joint free of the box.

If you want to reuse the drive shaft seals remove the shaft centrally and dont hit the seal with the splines or sharp circlip.


Bag the shaft in cling film or freezer bag and rubber bands to keep clean.

While handling the shaft/hub pair dont extend the driveshaft on the cv boots..


I took my wishbone off too as replacing the rear bush - leave if not.

I also took the plastic central arch line off and wheell rub plate

It will suddenly look very bare in the passenger arch.


Rest again..
Attached Images
File Type: jpg thru pass arch.JPG (45.4 KB, 269 views)

Last edited by D5meister; Mar 3rd, 2014 at 01:57.
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Old Mar 3rd, 2014, 07:05   #6
Thassos
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Smile gr8 pics :)

Great to see some pictures, wish more people would post pics !, always helps to see whats under all the gubbins ,..even if your not doing the same job
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Old Mar 3rd, 2014, 12:25   #7
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Default Euro car part order numbers

Got these on order today.

2 x 610660318 @ 10.32 GBP
Ocap Control Arm / Wishbone Bush
for: Volvo S60 2.4 2003 (ad03xxx)
----
1 x 336660080 @ 410.39 GBP
LUK Dual Mass Flywheel
for: Volvo S60 2.4 2003 (ad03xxx)
----
1 x 637660030 @ 230.40 GBP
LUK Clutch Kit
for: Volvo S60 2.4 2003 (ad03xxx)
----
1 x 501660100 @ 5.28 GBP
Hengst Oil Filter
for: Volvo S60 2.4 2003 (ad03xxx)
----
1 x 502660018 @ 9.60 GBP
Crosland Air Filter
for: Volvo S60 2.4 2003 (ad03xxx)
----
1 x 369660031 @ 4.56 GBP
Elring Crankshaft Seal
for: Volvo S60 2.4 2003 (ad03xxx)

2 x 135660308 @ 7.56 GBP
Pagid Brake Hose
for: Volvo S60 2.4 2003 (AD03xxx)


Payment £698.42 GBP

this is vat included and 48hr fedex for under £2 !!

Last edited by D5meister; Mar 3rd, 2014 at 14:08.
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Old Mar 5th, 2014, 01:11   #8
D5meister
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Default Day 3

Did 1 1/2 hrs earlier stripping. plus couple of hours tonight.

Did driver side arch clearance,

droplink ------- One of the joints was ratting - so ordered 2 new ones

2 x 614660368 @ 7.44 GBP
Ocap Stabiliser Link / Drop Link
for: Volvo S60 2.4 2003


removed..
bottom ball joint
track rod end
caliper
disk
wishbone
Long driveshaft Bearing Cap ( 2 x 12mm bolts )
The long driveshaft is pulled by holding the inner cv joint body at the box and pulling.
It has NO circlip and comes out just sliding out on its splines - very easy.

removed rear wishbone bushes - dont have appropriate drifts, drilled out rubber and hacksawed the outer shell , tapped out when cut through.

Cleaned corrosion where bush was using rotary abrasive pad/mop - like pan scourer. Greased ready to take new ones.

Did one of the strut top mounts and both bottom ball joints.

Bought stailess mig wire to weld my cat crack.

Steve
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Old Mar 5th, 2014, 22:52   #9
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I have my new DMF - ( Slack is 2 teeth )

Clutch, csc, etc


Im trying to make a compression tool -

I am making a triple engine support beam from scaffold - details if interested.


My questions are..

1)What tool is required to remove the flywheel bolts - part No brand size type
2)What is the dia hole in crankshaft to take a clutch alignment tool - or is there a known good one - brand PN image or link etc


Incidentally someone said on a volvo clutch write up that his LUK clutch adjuster appeared preset - so he simply bolted on. This is bad advice - Do Not Simply BOLT ON.

The LUK Repset pro auto SAC for D5 136hp REQUIRES A PRECOMPRESSOR TOOL. The LUK Clutch has a big red sticker on the box saying this.
They suggest their own tool - which is £450 ! ! ! ! Volvos tool is £166+vat

While Precompressd - you need to hold the adjuster full retracted - hold adjuster retracted while the precomression tool is being releived.


I bought some steel and M8 studding and attempting a design like this - the type recommended by LUK
Zoom to 7min 45sec
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yoxabIppSlk

Steve

Last edited by D5meister; Mar 5th, 2014 at 22:57.
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Old Mar 7th, 2014, 13:40   #10
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Default Compression tool for clutch

Made this.
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