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MAF sensor

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Old Aug 25th, 2012, 19:44   #1
aidanmac
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Default MAF sensor

I have the following error codes on my 1993 2.0 245 SE; 1-2-1 and 3-2-2 and 1-1-3 which all seems to suggest that my MAF sensor is faulty. The car is running fine but is running way to rich and using a lot of petrol. Should i replace the MAF sensor and will an aftermarket part be ok or will i need the genuine BOSCH 0280212016 part?
I have tried cleaning the connector and resetting the system by disconnecting the battery but no change.
Could the O2 sensor (lambda probe ??) be the cause.

Are the genuine parts still available. if so how much and where???
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Old Aug 27th, 2012, 11:33   #2
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You should be able to get original parts but they cost a lot.
Try ebay or braydon motors.
I replaced the o2 and the maf on mine.
Www.lambdapower.co.uk
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Old Aug 27th, 2012, 12:21   #3
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You will find that the Bosch air mass meter pt no 0 280 212 016 is common over a vast majority of the 200/700/900 range, plus others. You should be able to pick up a good secondhand one in the 'Sales' sections. Put up a wanted ad in both sections and I am sure that you will get a reply.

In fact, I think that if you go look at the 700/900 Sales that a guy called 'Another Volvonut' who is clearing his garage at the moment and who I went and saw has one unless it's gone already. Bob.
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Old Aug 27th, 2012, 16:43   #4
tannachyallen
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There is this one on Ebay at present: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1996-Volvo...item257341f39d

from a 900 series but same part no.

The other trick is cleaning the actual sensor wire inside the unit with contact cleaner spray.......somtimes works

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Old Aug 29th, 2012, 08:30   #5
meltedcheese
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I have one for sale over in the 900 sales section here -

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=160739

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISA...#ht_500wt_1414

Just notice you can't read the p/n on the pic if you need it let me know
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Old Apr 19th, 2017, 18:50   #6
arluk3
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Default MAF mimics all known problems

I had always assumed that a bad MAF sensor would make the engine run poorly, just as disconnecting the MAF does (the "limp home mode" in which you can drive home). But this is not true. Apparently a bad MAF can result in any number of issues which mimic every conceivable problem in either the fuel injection or electronic ignition systems! My friend had a MAF failure which acted like something else because he couldn't even get his car to move and had to have it towed. Later he disconnected the MAF and the car ran well enough to drive. So I would suggest that any catastrophic driving issue should first be addressed by disconnecting the MAF to see if things improve. The MAF has some very complex circuitry on its inside and probably cannot be fixed by the layman, but it is easy to replace and easy to disconnect.
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Old Apr 19th, 2017, 23:45   #7
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This thread http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...=255281&page=6 is lengthy but lots of helpful replies so maybe you'll find something useful there.
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Old Apr 20th, 2017, 08:18   #8
DW42
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If the MAF needs replacing, when you put a new one in also check the air box thermostat. On cold days this directs warm air to the intake from near the exhaust manifold via the big silver accordion hose. If the thermostat fails in this position, the MAF receives very hot air when the engine is warm which kills the MAF off before its time.

You can remove the accordion hose and wire the flap if you're not holidaying in Sweden in winter.
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Old Apr 21st, 2017, 22:38   #9
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Hi,
If it's any help at all, a couple of years ago I had similar symptoms with my' 93 2.3 SE.
The car started to suddenly use shocking amounts of fuel and black smoked when you started it from hot, and the Lambda light was on all the time.
Other than that, it ran fine, but maybe some small loss of power, eg. on the motorway.

(If you look on the forum under 200 Series Articles, Wooble has kindly listed some common fault codes for the later cars)

The (single in my case) diagnostic code flagged up in the onboard system said it was the Lambda Sensor that screws into the Cat.
(You can test it with a multimeter, the Haynes Manual explains how to do this)

Once I replaced the sensor with a new one, all returned to normality.
Think I got mine from a motor factor, don't think it was a Bosch.

However, if it's the AIr Mass Meter (MAF) that is at fault, this usually shows itself with extreme hunting at idle, confirmed if you unplug it and the idle gets better briefly! When I first got my car it had this symptom at idle, showed no Lambda light, but a secondhand MAF cured it straight away.

Last edited by george123; Apr 21st, 2017 at 23:23.
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Old Apr 22nd, 2017, 11:03   #10
Stephen Edwin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by george123 View Post
Hi,
If it's any help at all, a couple of years ago I had similar symptoms with my' 93 2.3 SE.
The car started to suddenly use shocking amounts of fuel and black smoked when you started it from hot, and the Lambda light was on all the time.
Other than that, it ran fine, but maybe some small loss of power, eg. on the motorway.

(If you look on the forum under 200 Series Articles, Wooble has kindly listed some common fault codes for the later cars)

The (single in my case) diagnostic code flagged up in the onboard system said it was the Lambda Sensor that screws into the Cat.
(You can test it with a multimeter, the Haynes Manual explains how to do this)

Once I replaced the sensor with a new one, all returned to normality.
Think I got mine from a motor factor, don't think it was a Bosch.

However, if it's the AIr Mass Meter (MAF) that is at fault, this usually shows itself with extreme hunting at idle, confirmed if you unplug it and the idle gets better briefly! When I first got my car it had this symptom at idle, showed no Lambda light, but a secondhand MAF cured it straight away.
Or in my case the engine barely able to idle let alone get above idle or provide any pulling power. Limped home ...

For confirmation I checked the fault codes plus the air mass meter multimeter tests. But even then I felt unsure until I had fitted a new air mass meter / MAF and it has worked. I was unsure because there are so many people in the forum having had difficult experiences that involve not only or not exactly the air mass meter. The unplugging test was not entirely helpful in my case. The car had already returned to temporarily behaving OK by the time I tried that.

Some Bosch prices quoted on eBay are very high. Prices are less I think from Brayden but if I remember correctly Angie paid more to Brayden than I paid to Volvo and Angie had to get the item replaced as faulty and the car is still not 100%? You still have a fault code Angie? I got a good price for a Volvo air mass meter. It took about four weeks from Sweden. Just over 150 delivered from FRF Volvo in Swansea. 01792 790066 or 01792 784272 - Quoting discount code: C3 to be sure they realise you are an online customer. There are far cheaper items on eBay but I have heard they are not always as good as they should be. It would be interesting if anyone can recommend a cheaper item that has served them well. After the experience when my air mass meter failed, I'd like to find a known good item to carry as a spare.


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Last edited by Stephen Edwin; Apr 22nd, 2017 at 11:06.
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