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850 / S70 & V70 '96-'99 / C70 '97-'05 General Forum for the 850 and P80-platform 70-series models

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V-70R worthy or not worthy?

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Old May 13th, 2002, 15:33   #1
servohead
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Default V-70R worthy or not worthy?

Howdy,
I just took a peak at a 1998 v-70R wagon that seems to be in incredibly clean condition with 48 thousand miles on it. Would any of you proud V-70 owners have any information about the pluses or minuses about the V-70R? Its really a sharp car, Id love to hear good things about it. Thanks for your time!
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Old May 13th, 2002, 15:45   #2
Simon Linton
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Last Online: Apr 24th, 2008 20:02
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Leicester
Default RE: V-70R worthy or not worthy?

48K is pretty low mileage for a 1998 car, so everything should be fine - check all the usual suspects like service history, reason for sale etc.

Take particular care with the upholstery since repairs will be expensive and look out for leaks in the boot well due to detached rear washer pipes (easily fixable) and rattling tailgate trim (less easily fixable).

Also check that the aircon works properly and the wheels don't vibrate under braking (when you've bought it, get the wheel nuts retorqued to 110Nm to avoid front disc warp).

Most problems are on the threads in this and the performance forum; but 70 series cars avoid many of the troubles that plague their earlier bretheren.

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Old May 13th, 2002, 21:45   #3
servohead
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Default RE: V-70R worthy or not worthy?

Well this is a dealer serviced car so Im not too concerned with the service history thank goodness.

I find it interesting about what you said regarding wheel torq...will overtorqing warp rotors? Id like to be informed...I hate emptying my wallet for volvo rotors...Warping seems to be the leading cause for replacement with my cars...
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Old May 13th, 2002, 22:06   #4
swells
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Default RE: V-70R worthy or not worthy?

Hello there.
I bought a 97 V70R with 94000 on the clock back in Feb this year (an ex-Volvo Finance car, bought at Shepshed Car Auctions)and so far I'm very pleased with it. Make sure it has a full service history, and make sure the mileage is correct! If in doubt I would be tempted to change the cam belt anyway, as this needs to be changed at 80000 miles(max), or sooner if a lot of stop-start motoring, or short journies are made. A busted belt means a busted bank balance!
I used to have a Volvo 240 GLT estate (1988 vintage, and I sold her with 257000 miles under her belt and she was still going strong), but I can't see the V70 lasting as long. They don't make 'em like they used to! I'm not convinced that the rust-proofing is as thorough on this one, as I have had to attend to surface rust which has appeared on the bonnet hinge mountings; along the seam on the bottom of all 4 doors; along the edge of the top of the tailgate where it rubs on the rubber sealing strip; and there is corrosion on both side lower edges of the intercooler/radiator assembly (remove the plastic undertray to have a look at this area).
I've now covered 4000 miles in mine, and I'm averaging 27mpg, which I calculate at each fill-up. The on-board computer tells me I'm averaging 29, which is a little optomistic.
I'm using a fully synthetic engine oil (Hafords own), and am experiencing no oil loss or usage at all.
The car can be terribly fast! Be very careful with the right foot, and try not to upset your passengers! My wife keeps telling me to go steady - speed is definately no aphrodisiac as far as she is concerned!
Brake judder and troublesome door window switches seem to be common ailments. I had to replace the driver's door master switch (£75.00),
and all 4 brake discs and pads were replaced at 90000 (just before I bought it), but I still get a bit of brake judder when anchoring up sharpish from barely legal speeds.
Before I bought this one I took a 'standard' T5 out on test from a local dealer, and I think the R gives a smoother ride than the T5. I was expecting the R to be very jittery as it sits on low profile tyres, but I'm finding the ride to be very comfortable indeed. The handling, needless to say, is superb.
Hope this is of use to you, but take a look at the other messages in the Forum to get a bit more info.
Steve Wells
(Don't forget to check how much the insurance premium will be, either!)
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Old May 13th, 2002, 22:35   #5
Simon Linton
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Last Online: Apr 24th, 2008 20:02
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Default Torquing wheel nuts

It isn't overtorquing that does it, it's uneven torquing across the wheel.

A lot of garages do up the nuts with an air wrench - not good enough for the 17" alloys of the R variants, though it is probably OK for 15" steel rims on standard models.

An acid test for tyre replacers is to see whether they torque up the nuts unasked, using a torque wrench ONLY.

I've bought my own and now slacken off and re-torque the nuts after every session when the wheels come off - it's cheaper than replacing warped discs!
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