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Clutch failure 940 B200F

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Old Nov 10th, 2017, 06:39   #1
LeonardoIT
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Default Clutch failure 940 B200F

I just had a clutch failure on my 940, first the clutch was not working properly but the car was able to run, then I stopped for a minute and when I tried to start the gears were able to be selected with the clutch pressed or not but the car wasn't rolling. I waited few minutes in the car waiting and I heard a metallic noise after whose I wasn't then able to select any gear. Any guess on the possible cause?
Thank you all
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Old Nov 10th, 2017, 20:05   #2
Laird Scooby
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Sounds like the clutch hydraulics need bleeding from the way you've described it.
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Old Nov 10th, 2017, 21:11   #3
LeonardoIT
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I hoped it was, and in fact it is, but not only that.
This evening I went to see the car and I found the slave clutch cylinder leaking but also the clutch lever loose and taking off its rubber cover, i found this in the clutch housing:

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Old Nov 10th, 2017, 21:28   #4
islipaway
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That's the bit that sits in the fork arm, between the arm and the ball thing it rests on.

Sounds like maybe the fork arm bent or, just wore through where the ball contacts it causing the slave to over extend. I had a similar problem on my 740 and as a temp measure I pushed the slave rod back in and pumped the clutch like 100 times to get some pressure back in and was able to move it about.

http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts...-fork/1019213/

If the arm isn't bent you might be able to buy that part and wiggle it in through the fork boot and onto the fork without taking the gearbox out, then bleed the slave and good to go!

Last edited by islipaway; Nov 10th, 2017 at 21:40.
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Old Nov 11th, 2017, 06:52   #5
LeonardoIT
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Thank you islipaway!
That's a good new.
Just one tought... if any of the parts of the fork command broke, shouldn't the clutch stay engaged or am I wrong?
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Old Nov 11th, 2017, 12:08   #6
islipaway
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I think in the case of this part where the arm pivots it would have the same effect as pushing in the clutch slightly. It depends if just the plastic clip has broken or if the ball has worn all the way through the arm (which is possible, and I think likely given how destroyed the clip is).

I have drawn a diagram to try and illustrate but it's a bit messy and hopefully someone with more knowledge can confirm or deny this theory.
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Old Nov 11th, 2017, 13:27   #7
Laird Scooby
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If the pivot ball has worn through the release arm, it won't be possible to disengage the clutch making it impossible to select any gears.

For the purposes of the above statement, i am considering the clutch "engaged" when the pedal is not pushed down and disengaged when the pedal is pushed down.

If the clutch is showing those sort of problems, there's a very high chance the pressure plate, driven plate and release bearing are also on their last legs so i would suggest a new 3-part clutch kit and release arm.
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Old Nov 13th, 2017, 13:16   #8
LeonardoIT
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As I found a place where I can dismount the gearbox, see what happened and repair it, I'm buying the pieces to do the work properly, replacing everything I can.
On Skandix I put all this in the basket, please let me know if I forgot something:

Clutch kit 271267
Alignment tool, Clutch
Release fork, Clutch 3549983
Release bearing (I have to find the right one)
Ball socket clutch fork 9163851
Slace cylinder, Clutch 8601784
Spring release fork 1377132
Pivot pin, Clutch fork 3549638

Am I forgetting something?
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Old Nov 13th, 2017, 14:37   #9
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You don't need the 'Spring release fork' This is used on 700s instead of the plastic clip.

If you're looking to save money -

You can find the clutch kits w/ release bearing on ebay for a lot less.

http://webcat.schaeffler-aftermarket...GB/index.xhtml

Use that website to find the right kit for your car then you can find the cheapest place selling it!

You might not need a slave, the piston can be just pushed back in unless it's worn out, you can get a repair kit with a new rod/seal etc. If you want to replace the slave you need to make sure you have a circlip to replace the one that holds it in, I think it is 32mm.
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Old Nov 14th, 2017, 15:32   #10
LeonardoIT
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Thanks islipaway,
I'm waiting the pieces, hope they arrive before the weekend!
On the italian forum some guys said it would be good to change also the sealing ring on the gearbox and on the engine and the bearing on the engine side, it's necessary and right to do it?
Honestly I'd like to do everything I can to avoid to take the gearbox down again soon, so if it's necessary to buy other 50 euros of pieces, I'm going to do it
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