Depressurising fuel rail between runs.

[StrongSpearWorks]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

In between whiles, have you ever cleaned the throttle body at all or checked the adjustment of the TPS switch? Also is it manual or auto?

I have cleaned the TB in the past, and the TPS does make an audible click just as the butterfly opens. I’ve not done the TPS diagnostic test, however.

It’s automatic.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by StrongSpearWorks

I have cleaned the TB in the past, and the TPS does make an audible click just as the butterfly opens. I’ve not done the TPS diagnostic test, however.

It’s automatic.

Thanks, i'll wait for the pics of the throttle body

[StrongSpearWorks]

Throttle body!

Additional: just did the TPS diagnostic, gave code 3-3-4 correct function.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by StrongSpearWorks

Throttle body!

Additional: just did the TPS diagnostic, gave code 3-3-4 correct function.

Thanks - can't see what i was hoping for, a knurled thumbwheel typ adjuster for idle air bypass so back to the basic method.

If it's hot and idling, i'm guessing it idles at 900rpm, correct? What if you unplug the AICV? It should drop to about 700rpm.

If not, leave the AICV unplugged and adjust the throttle stop screw on the throttle butterfly to get 700rpm - it will be fiddly as there is a locknut and a very short, small adjuster screw.

Recheck the TPS works as it should after, if not adjust the position of it so it does (3mm Allen key if memory serves to loosen the two adjuster screws) and then double check it still idles at 700rpm - repeat if not.
After you have it idling t 700rpm (base idle speed) and the TPS adjusted correctly after, refit the AICV plug and it should come up to 900rpm again.

Switch off and pull fuse #1 for 30 seconds and refit.

If it idles at ~700rpm when you disconnect the AICV the first time, this isn't the cure i'm hoping it will be but i suspect it will be idling either much lower than 700rpm or at/near 900rpm with the AICV unplugged.

[StrongSpearWorks]

For that, I’ll have to get a third party tach… mine doesn’t work, never has. 🙄

[StrongSpearWorks]

I've waited a coupe of days just to make sure that this isn't a fluke.

Three dead cold starts now and they've been perfect. As in... perfect. On the first crank, no smoke, no hesitation, no stench of unburnt fuel, no missing, no car rocking side to side, no surging idle as the the ECU tries to burn off all the excess fuel nor dirty looks from the neighbours as I try to get my 30 year old bus running next to their brand new Merc.

Following on from the conversation I had with my VW friend, I changed the ECT sensor. Despite it being an OEM part only 2 years old, and according to my readings working... clearly something was amiss.

New ECT sensor has changed the way the engine runs completely. I think I'll get another one in and keep it in the box of spares along with bulbs and a spare fuel pump relay. Looks to be something that just needs changing every few years.

Clearly I'm tempting fate by saying this, but it looks like this one is resolved - as much as any of these things are ever resolved

Now just to crack on with all the other jobs, including but not limited to:

Rear shocks and springs.
Turbo return line top gasket.
Front and rear crank and cam seals.
Centre prop bearing.
Diff oil change.
Replace under car fuel pump (it's not as loud now, but still moans a bit)
Oil cooler... it's just a mess down there.
Rear window seals.
Rusty bits.

Thanks for all your help and support chaps!