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Engine won't rev and hunts

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Old Sep 12th, 2019, 22:45   #11
ANDTWENTY
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the valve should be on the back end of the fuel rail which connects all the injectors together . ( The windscreen end ) usually with a blue cap . it is very much like a tyre air valve ..
I did have a look, perhaps I missed it then, ill check again in the morning.
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Old Sep 12th, 2019, 22:49   #12
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I did have a look, perhaps I missed it then, ill check again in the morning.
after all these years it is probably black now :-)
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Old Sep 12th, 2019, 22:58   #13
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after all these years it is probably black now :-)
if its as well kept as the rest of the car it'll be polished!
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Old Sep 13th, 2019, 00:18   #14
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Okay so I charged up the battery and put it back on, I checked the battery light and this comes on when the ignition is on so the lamp is fine, if I disconnect the red wire then about 3 lights go off such as washer, lights and battery. when the car is started the battery light goes dim, almost a half brightness along with the bulb icon, washer icon and what looks like a brake light with a ! in it, the abs light is always on, the oil light and lambda light go off though, is this normal?

I took off the voltage regulator to see if the bushes had worn but they are fine, the metal strips from the bushes are a little corroded so maybe the whole thing has seen better days? I can pick up a new one for £10, could this be worth doing? I can also get a brand new alternator for £90 at euros so thought maybe its better to bight the bullet and get that if the VR doesn't work. just not sure if I should try a new regulator or go for a whole new alternator?

Another point I have noticed is the fuel is on red and the light is on, will chuck in a jerry can tomorrow.

I managed to read codes using the flashing led in the bonnet, came up with lost signal to the idle air valve but that would be because I took it off earlier.

Theres a breakers yard next to me so will give them a call in the morning just incase he has one.
Not worth throwing a voltage reg at the alternator at all, sounds as if the rectifier has gone.
Also absolutely no point whatsoever reading codes, they'll be nonsense.

You need to sort the charging problem before you can go any further. Once that is sorted, pull fuse #1 for at least 30 seconds and replace it. Then take it for a drive and read the codes again.

No point faffing about with fuel pressures until you have the electrics right. You'll probaly find it runs fine with a decent alternator.
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Old Sep 13th, 2019, 02:13   #15
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Not worth throwing a voltage reg at the alternator at all, sounds as if the rectifier has gone.
Also absolutely no point whatsoever reading codes, they'll be nonsense.

You need to sort the charging problem before you can go any further. Once that is sorted, pull fuse #1 for at least 30 seconds and replace it. Then take it for a drive and read the codes again.

No point faffing about with fuel pressures until you have the electrics right. You'll probaly find it runs fine with a decent alternator.
I did wonder if it could be the rectifier, yea probably best to just change it and have done with it, might see if any other parts places have one or I'll ring around a few breakers yards also.
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Old Sep 13th, 2019, 02:31   #16
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I did wonder if it could be the rectifier, yea probably best to just change it and have done with it, might see if any other parts places have one or I'll ring around a few breakers yards also.
You'll still need the information from that green label on the alternator, it also tells you the output which can vary enormously from 45A to 100A or even 120A on some models.

In fact, looking up the 2.3 non-turbo 940 for 1990-94 reveals there are no less than 7 different alternators fitted! They vary from 55A to 100A so there's plenty of room for error!
It's fine (and often desirable) to go up on the output but going lower can often cause problems, especially if your runs are mainly short ones or you do a lot of town driving.
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Old Sep 13th, 2019, 02:37   #17
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You'll still need the information from that green label on the alternator, it also tells you the output which can vary enormously from 45A to 100A or even 120A on some models.

In fact, looking up the 2.3 non-turbo 940 for 1990-94 reveals there are no less than 7 different alternators fitted! They vary from 55A to 100A so there's plenty of room for error!
It's fine (and often desirable) to go up on the output but going lower can often cause problems, especially if your runs are mainly short ones or you do a lot of town driving.
I did have a look on the alternator for the green sticker but couldn't see anything. On the parts sites it says it's a 55amp alternator although I know they may not be correct, I have a feeling I saw this on there too. I'll have a propper look again in the morning but I didn't see a sticker on it, perhaps it was underneath?

It may be worth going up on the amps then as there are a few bits and bobs in the car electronics wise and I don't know what I may put in later on so better to be safe than sorry.
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Old Sep 13th, 2019, 09:41   #18
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The breakers up the road from me has one off a diesel 960, provided it fits dimension wise and has a higher or equal amperage will it work okay?
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Old Sep 13th, 2019, 10:14   #19
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The breakers up the road from me has one off a diesel 960, provided it fits dimension wise and has a higher or equal amperage will it work okay?
Yes but ignore the "W" connection on it, that's only for the rev counter in a diesel as they don't have an ignition coil. If possible take your old alternator with you for positive comparison on the brackets etc.
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Old Sep 13th, 2019, 10:55   #20
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Yes but ignore the "W" connection on it, that's only for the rev counter in a diesel as they don't have an ignition coil. If possible take your old alternator with you for positive comparison on the brackets etc.
yea I'm now taking it off just wondered as the guy on the phone sounded like because its a diesel its different but ill pop down there, cheers!
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