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keeping the rust away

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Old Oct 30th, 2020, 22:52   #11
Laird Scooby
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Originally Posted by taiwan740 View Post
Struggling to visualise your idea, as the electrolyte bath works in part by the liquid allowing to move the rust particles into suspension away from the part, unless you are thinking of some kind of electrolyte washing/spray device?

Either way, keen to read any new ideas.
The way i've always understood it is the electrolysis reverses the rusting action - deoxidises the work piece if you like by swapping atoms of good metal from the anode for atoms of rusty metal on the work piece.

Usually when i've used it, that is the overall finish that appears as well, some pits are even filled in with good metal and the oxidisation transfers to the sacrificial anode that shrinks over time.

I'll try and get time to get it all set up for a photo (or 3) tomorrow, that may make things clearer.
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Old Nov 3rd, 2020, 10:49   #12
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Watch Project Farm, best product reviewer on youtube. Engine oil did the same or worse than nothing at all.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyWHF4NoNVk

Can't seem to get CRC 6026 or Flex Seal here, but Fluid Film is available on ebay.
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Old Nov 3rd, 2020, 11:39   #13
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Originally Posted by baggy798 View Post
Watch Project Farm, best product reviewer on youtube. Engine oil did the same or worse than nothing at all.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyWHF4NoNVk

Can't seem to get CRC 6026 or Flex Seal here, but Fluid Film is available on ebay.
Good review. I think i shall be buying a tin or two of fluid film
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Old Nov 9th, 2020, 15:29   #14
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Aqua steel best product i have used
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Old Nov 17th, 2020, 17:38   #15
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Hiya Ian

Yeah POR 15 is literally 'paint over rust' what products are you using on it?
Hello Luke.
Sorry for the long delay in responding. I have needed to deal with a few other things.
It appears to me that POR15 is good for under car protection (chassis, suspension etc.) provided all the correct prep. is done but not suitable for bodywork where a paint finish is required.
The method which I have used for bodywork for a long time treating various vehicles is to sand/grind off as much of the rust as possible leaving clean metal around the area then treat with a rust killer. If the pitting is slight I then paint over with Hammerite No.1 (brown) in an effort to fill in any pitting then another coat of Hammerite No.1 (beige) to continue filling. Then attempt to rub down until smooth, stopping when the brown starts to show through. If the pitting is bad I apply some cataloy filler then rub that down and continue filler and rub down with wet and dry
until I am satisfied with the finish. Then use aerosol spray cans of primer then several coats of finishing colour. I've had some reasonable results but they only last so long.
I've used various rustkiller products over the years.
Several years ago I discovered and used "Trustan 23" which was difficult to source locally. It's main disadvantages were, 1) it needed to be left for 24 hours, then 2) it needed to be washed off to remove any uncured product then dried before any paint could be applied.
More recently I've been using Hammerite "Kurust" which is supposed to be cured in 3 hours and does not need to be washed off and should be overcoated asap.
My research seems to show that "Aqua Steel" mentioned by laurence is simply a diluted version of Kurust.
I have obtained some "Loctite 7503 Rust Remedy" which I haven't used yet. I've found the Loctite products I've used in the past to be very good so in due course I will see how effective it is. It's to be brushed on, retreated if necessary and then once cured (about 15 minutes) should be keyed with a fine abrasive for filling or painting then filled or painted 24 hours after application. The fact that it is recommended that it is "keyed" before filling or painting seems unusual.
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Last edited by Ian21401; Nov 17th, 2020 at 17:58. Reason: Add text.
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