240 General: - Cam belt tensioner adjustment

PTJS · May 15th, 2011, 13:14

Hi all

I had a new cambelt and tensioner fitted about 5k ago to my B200E engine and from around that time I have had a strange bobbling noise from around the front of the engine, one of several which i am trying to cure. I have read somewhere that about 500 miles after a new tensioner is fitted it should be released to allow it to reset, presumably because the new belt will have stretched a little since fitting. This has never been done and I am looking for advice how to do this. Is it possible to get at the bolt securing the tensioner by removing the rubber bung towards the top of the cam cover?

Cheers

Phil

wooble · May 15th, 2011, 13:35

Yep, that's what it's for. Remove the bung, loosen the nut holding the tensioner to allow it to re-tension itself and then re-tighten again.

PTJS · May 16th, 2011, 10:42

Is the tensioner nut on a normal thread or is it left hand threaded?

Cheers

Phil

wooble · May 16th, 2011, 11:46

Normal thread I believe.

loki_the_glt · May 16th, 2011, 12:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by wooble

Normal thread I believe.

Your belief is correct. Which reminds me, I'll need to do SFSS's after it returns from Hatton as it should be about the right mileage.

PTJS · May 17th, 2011, 17:14

Thanks all. I never realised what an easy job this was. Engine now running smoother and the 'bobbling' noise seems to have gone. Next job is to find out whether the other worrying noise I am hearing is down to the fan not being properly seated or if it is the power steering pump bearing on its way out. Then there is the increasing amount of clutch judder am getting at biting point - particularly when cold. Any ideas on this one? Wouldn't sell it for the world though....

Cheers

Phil

Clifford Pope · May 18th, 2011, 08:02

Clutch judder is often caused by engine or gearbox mountings having gone soft from age or oil contamination.

PTJS · May 18th, 2011, 12:52

Thanks Clifford I'll get these checked out. The engine mounts look sound with no obvious splits and the engine is reasonably steady on tickover (for a 240) now I've re tensioned the cam belt. I always protect the mount beneath the oil filter when I am doing an oil change to avoid oil getting onto it and in the back of the alternator. The latter was an expensive oversight with my first 240! The gearbox mount may well be favourite.

Cheers

Phil

BrianH · May 18th, 2011, 14:40

Check out the central bearing on the propshaft too, as the rubber seals go and expose the large bearings to moisture.

callumk5 · Jun 1st, 2011, 15:53

Let it never be said that a simple job can't go wrong in the hands of an idiot. After reading this thread and realising my cam belt hadn't been re-tensioned since I changed it last year, I stepped out into the morning sun to give it a tweak just to be sure. The picture speaks for itself- and yes, I did use a torque wrench, both to tension it last year and to break it today!

Good news- the studs are still available from Volvo and cost £1.98 from a dusty shed in the middle of Sweden, apparently.

May 15th, 2011, 13:14	#1
PTJS Master Member Last Online: Aug 22nd, 2022 17:32 Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Derby	Cam belt tensioner adjustment Hi all I had a new cambelt and tensioner fitted about 5k ago to my B200E engine and from around that time I have had a strange bobbling noise from around the front of the engine, one of several which i am trying to cure. I have read somewhere that about 500 miles after a new tensioner is fitted it should be released to allow it to reset, presumably because the new belt will have stretched a little since fitting. This has never been done and I am looking for advice how to do this. Is it possible to get at the bolt securing the tensioner by removing the rubber bung towards the top of the cam cover? Cheers Phil

May 15th, 2011, 13:35	#2
wooble Stay gold baby! Last Online: Jul 24th, 2022 16:15 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Bristol	Yep, that's what it's for. Remove the bung, loosen the nut holding the tensioner to allow it to re-tension itself and then re-tighten again. __________________ Click to see 240 parts I want to give you money for!

May 16th, 2011, 10:42	#3
PTJS Master Member Last Online: Aug 22nd, 2022 17:32 Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Derby	Is the tensioner nut on a normal thread or is it left hand threaded? Cheers Phil Last edited by PTJS; May 16th, 2011 at 10:42. Reason: correction

May 16th, 2011, 11:46	#4
wooble Stay gold baby! Last Online: Jul 24th, 2022 16:15 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Bristol	Normal thread I believe. __________________ Click to see 240 parts I want to give you money for!

May 17th, 2011, 17:14	#6
PTJS Master Member Last Online: Aug 22nd, 2022 17:32 Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Derby	Thanks all. I never realised what an easy job this was. Engine now running smoother and the 'bobbling' noise seems to have gone. Next job is to find out whether the other worrying noise I am hearing is down to the fan not being properly seated or if it is the power steering pump bearing on its way out. Then there is the increasing amount of clutch judder am getting at biting point - particularly when cold. Any ideas on this one? Wouldn't sell it for the world though.... Cheers Phil

May 18th, 2011, 08:02	#7
Clifford Pope Not an expert but ... Last Online: Today 08:12 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Boncath	Clutch judder is often caused by engine or gearbox mountings having gone soft from age or oil contamination.

May 18th, 2011, 12:52	#8
PTJS Master Member Last Online: Aug 22nd, 2022 17:32 Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Derby	Thanks Clifford I'll get these checked out. The engine mounts look sound with no obvious splits and the engine is reasonably steady on tickover (for a 240) now I've re tensioned the cam belt. I always protect the mount beneath the oil filter when I am doing an oil change to avoid oil getting onto it and in the back of the alternator. The latter was an expensive oversight with my first 240! The gearbox mount may well be favourite. Cheers Phil

May 18th, 2011, 14:40	#9
BrianH VOC Member Last Online: Jan 16th, 2024 18:10 Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Bournemouth	Check out the central bearing on the propshaft too, as the rubber seals go and expose the large bearings to moisture.

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