What I did today thread...

[davebb]

Originally Posted by sparkeysteve

fixed drivers door window system, found out whom ever replaced it in the past has used nuts and bolts to fix it back on, no lock washers etc,

trying to find out the part number for the Auto box ECU, the label has faded into nothing AARRRRRRR

the idea being a newer ECU should have the updated software to stop the clunking, not sure but maybe worth a try??

Hi normally you can not just swap ECUs as they are programmed with the vin of the car, but I don't know about the auto box ecu,

if you have vida, icarsoft, Delphi DS150e readers you can read the part number you want,
Dave

[sparkeysteve]

Originally Posted by Christerart

Are you talking about when shifting? - if so, try a partial transmission dump and add a bottle of Lubeguard Red:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lubegard-...4AAOSwKMxbNPG8

no its the old won't go into neutral when stopping at lights etc,
keeps jumping into 1st then out, the research i've done points to the software of the ECU, as its had a complete oil change, with the correct oil,, making driving better but not perfect, and i'm not paying dealer prices for software which really should be free, as Volvo have screwed it up in the first place, now the car is 18years old and worth naff all, spending big money on it isn't sensible
so getting a £15 ECU maybe worth a try??

[sparkeysteve]

Originally Posted by davebb

Hi normally you can not just swap ECUs as they are programmed with the vin of the car, but I don't know about the auto box ecu,

if you have vida, icarsoft, Delphi DS150e readers you can read the part number you want,
Dave

i have ViDa and tried to get the number can't find it anywhere ! i'll go and have another go at it.
if this isn't going to be a viable way to fix the issues, its going to be time to get rid of this c**py Volvo my 1st and definitely last Volvo, so hate it with a passion
and it's really not helping its self to make me like it in any way!!

[Georgeandkira]

Transmission drain & fill with LubeGard and power steering reservoir refresh on my V70

Then an oil change, power steering fluid, coolant and cabin air filter on the neighbor's Honda Accord. There's more to do on that one.

Then another neighbor came over complaining of a buzzy rattle in his 2012 Subaru. It was a rotted clamp on an exhaust heat shield. It feels good to fix things with leftover/salvaged bits.

Then I mowed the lawn.

Now I'm drinking beer.

[Christerart]

Originally Posted by Georgeandkira

Transmission drain & fill with LubeGard and power steering reservoir refresh on my V70

Then an oil change, power steering fluid, coolant and cabin air filter on the neighbor's Honda Accord. There's more to do on that one.

Then another neighbor came over complaining of a buzzy rattle in his 2012 Subaru. It was a rotted clamp on an exhaust heat shield. It feels good to fix things with leftover/salvaged bits.

Then I mowed the lawn.

Now I'm drinking beer.

Way to go!..

[Willow place]

Well I thought I would sort out the a/c smell, took a piece of plastic off near the passenger side, couldn't find any drain pipe, tried driver side still cannot find a drain tube, haynes are no use, so where is the Elusive drain tube please ?

[oragex]

My LHD has the tube on drivers side, but yours may be on the opposite side. Anyhow, the tube is rubber and quite long, easy to see and goes from the large white ventilation box, at the bottom and on the side of the box, close to the firewall area. You may need to lift a bit the carpet.

However the moist smell needs be fixed by spraying something: this is what I did but some don't agree with it - remember to remove any air filter while having the filter cover properly installed https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9m555KYsb_s At least for me this worked, it takes a few months for the smell to vanish but now mine doesn't smell at all and before it was quite intense.

May as well spray the solution of your choice from inside the car at the air inlet when the ventilation is put on 'recirculate'. The inlet pipe is somewhere not far from where the blower sits.

Remember that the a/c evaporator gets mildew on it when used in winter time, therefore when doing so try to turn the a/c off a few minutes before parking the car, so the evaporator has time to dry off a little.

[pierremcalpine]

Began the process of replacing my steering rack...successfully removed the old rack and installed one of the two new lines (pressure house).

The used rack that I had purchased came with both the return and the pressure lines but it was a push in connector to the pump not the threaded connector which is what I had. Opted to keep the replacement and get another pump only to find out that the rack came from an S60R meaning that the return house routing is totally different than on the non-R. Rack was in excellent condition (and so was the pressure hose) so I opted to order a new return hose from the dealership. Arrives tomorrow at which point I'll throw the hose and new rack on and get this job done. My hope is that the sporadic stiff steering that has plagued the car is now gone (I had previously replaced the reservoir, the steering u-joint and the pump as well as flushed the fluid - issues remained).

Removal of the rack was not as tough as I imagined however re-installing the pressure hose was a serious pain (different routing for updated design / push on connection).

[Georgeandkira]

Installed a Curt #12318 receiver hitch on the V70.

There are 2 bolts on each side of the car. Two hold the transport / tow eye screw socket (scrapped) and the two near side bolts hold the rear muffler bracket. On my '07 there are two 10mm bolts which hold rubber mount prongs. The muffler needn't be lowered more that 3 or 4 inches. All one needs to do is maneuver the near side plate into position and run the bolts in.

It couldn't be easier to install.

Go to Rockauto.com and select "accessories" under any '01 to '07 V70 to see the four they offer. Oddly, two of them are called "Euro mounts" and the included tow balls and their hardware do look like European ones I've seen over on "your side".

Doesn't do most here any good as shipping would be prohibitive (obviously).

[oragex]

Originally Posted by pierremcalpine

Began the process of replacing my steering rack...successfully removed the old rack and installed one of the two new lines (pressure house).

The used rack that I had purchased came with both the return and the pressure lines but it was a push in connector to the pump not the threaded connector which is what I had. Opted to keep the replacement and get another pump only to find out that the rack came from an S60R meaning that the return house routing is totally different than on the non-R. Rack was in excellent condition (and so was the pressure hose) so I opted to order a new return hose from the dealership. Arrives tomorrow at which point I'll throw the hose and new rack on and get this job done. My hope is that the sporadic stiff steering that has plagued the car is now gone (I had previously replaced the reservoir, the steering u-joint and the pump as well as flushed the fluid - issues remained).

Removal of the rack was not as tough as I imagined however re-installing the pressure hose was a serious pain (different routing for updated design / push on connection).

That's interesting, doesn't the R rack come with the speed sensitive sensor ? As for the stiffness, it may be caused by the spool valve inside the steering - my guess is this valve starts leaking on most cars at a certain age. But there are other parts that can cause stiff steering such as seizing (very rusted) strut bearings or even a bad ball joint.