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Clutch slave cylinder removal/refitting

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Old Dec 14th, 2008, 21:57   #1
Steve and his 244
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Last Online: Jan 31st, 2024 19:34
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Wakefield, West Yorkshire
Default Clutch slave cylinder removal/refitting

The seals inside the slave cylinder are prone to perishing. This results in clutch fluid leaking from the slave cylinder, which is a bit annoying because you have to top it up once in a while, and also because clutch fluid will strip paint like fun. Another reason to replace it is because if it is leaking, it is likely that the seals will collapse at and inconvenient time and you will be left stranded.

I feel it is best to replace the slave cylinder rather than just the seals, it isnt too much more money and it means everything within it is new and the slave cylinder itself is nice and clean and fresh inside and out so will hopefully last a long time...

The slave cylinder is located on the side of the bell housing (near the starter motor):



Jack the car up and support it on axle stands (see Mike Braces how to on lifting a 240 safely):



The leaky slave cylinder:



I found it easyest to clamp a lamp onto the suspension arm so I could see what I was doing:



Drain the clutch fluid using the bleed nipple (undo it and get someone to pump the clutch to empty the fluid into a container) A piece of rubber tubing needs to be pushed onto the bleed nipple to avoid the clutch fluid getting everywhere and stripping your 240 to bare metal (!).

If the seals have completely failed there will probably be minimal fluid left in the system so this may not be necessary.

The master cylinder empty:



Using a 17mm spanner, open up the connection between the flexi pipe and the slave cylinder. Do not try to undo it as the pipe wont want to twist, you are just doing this so it is easier to get undone once the slave cylinder is off. Just like undoing wheelnuts before jacking the car up.



Next is to remove the circlip. This is often seized due the the contact between the aluminium bellhousing and steel 'clip surfaces. I have heard of several cases where extreme measures have had to be taken to remove the circlip. I will tell how to remove it in the (reasonably) convensional way...

The circlip in question:



Douse it in WD40 (or similar). It may be necessary to do this several times over a number of days. In my case I just had to do it a couple of times over an hour or two (dinner break methinks ). I think it is best to replace the circlip (if it fails it will mean clutch control is lost, so a new uncorroded circlip is worthwhile).

I just got a sharp screwdriver and carefully tapped it up between the aluminium bracket (part of the bellhousing) and the circlip itself. By carefully doing this the circlip comes loose all the way round and can then be prized off:



The circlip removed:



Now the slave cylinder is theoretically loose, except it will be stuck in with corrosion. Give the area another dousing with WD40. Pull the rubber dust cover back (excess fluid may drip, so dont be underneath it!). The put a blunt screwdriver against the metal of the slave cylinder and knock it with a hammer towards the front of the car. Once there is a gap between the front of the aluminium bracket and the slave cylinder, the screwdriver can be carefully wedged between and the slave cylinder can be tapped away from the aluminium bracket:





Carefully let the slave cylinder hang:



The 'twizzle' it off the flexi hose being careful not to let any fluid splash onto any paintowork:



Then remove the pushrod and rubber dust cover from between the bellhousing and the clutch bracket (if it hasnt already fallen out). Pic below of what you are removing...



This is now what it looks like (from inside the engine bay):



DONE! :mrgreen:

Some pics of the parts you have removed:

The pushrod, dust cover, and old circlip:



All parts lined up to show how they go:



How the slave cylinder is in its completed form:



Once you have refurbed your original slave cylinder or bought your new one, and have sourced a new circlip, you are ready to refit.

"Twizzle" the new slave cylinder onto the flexi hose making sure there is a copper crush washer in between - ideally replace this, but I got away with reusing the original as I knew the slave cylinder had not been off before, so the washer had only been used once.

Place the slave cylinder loose in its aluminium housing on the bellhousing and fit the rubber dust cover to it.

Push the new circlip loosly onto the rubber dust cover (to be opened up and fitted correctly later). Put the pushrod in between the slave cylinder and the clutch release arm

Now make sure the slave cylinder is firmly inside its housing with its 'flat' (see photo below) in the correct position so it as far into its housing as possible...



Assuming you have some suitably sized circlip pliers, open the circlip up wide enough to slip over the slave cylinder. Make sure the 'clip sits inside its groove correctly and that the slave cylinder is secure:



Now tighten the flexi hose firmly onto the slave cylinder:



You now have a fully re-fitted slave cylinder:





Now you need to bleed the system through with new clutch fluid...you can either use special equipment, or do like I did and threaten your brother that if he doesnt come and help you you'll wallpaper his bedroom with volvo posters....

Obviously you will need some brake/clutch fluid (same thing)....Tip a little bit into a container of some sort, noting the colour of it...slot an 8mm ring spanner onto the bleed nipple of the slave cylinder followed by a length of clear pipe to reach to the bottom of the container (below the level of clutch fluid)

Make sure the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder is shut

Cover the surroundings of the clutch fluid reservoir with some rags (clutch fluid strips paint!) and fill up the reservoir with clean clutch fluid to the max level

Now wind down the passenger window and instruct your brother...

"when I shout ON, press the left hand pedal right to the floor and hold it there until I shout OFF, when you bring the pedal back up to the top and take your foot off the pedal"

Now go underneath the car and hope the axle stands can support your brother....

Making sure the end of the pipe is in clean fluid, open the bleed nipple and shout "ON". Your brother should then press down the pedal and hold it there...

Tighten the bleed nipple and shout "OFF" at which point your brother takes his foot off the pedal...

Repeat this process until clean, air-bubble-free clutch fluid flows through, making sure you check/top up the reservoir every three presses of the pedal....

Make sure the bleed nipple is tight (have symathy for the tiny thread though!) and pull off the tubing and the ring spanner...

Go around and check there is feel in the pedal, let the car dow off its stands/jack, kick your brother up the ar5e for finger printing the paintwork, and go for a careful drive!

Steve
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Thor - mist blue 1980 244GT
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Last edited by cumbrianmale; Jan 8th, 2009 at 18:59.
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244, 245, clutch, cylinder, volvo 240


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