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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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New Owner here - with questions!Views : 3448 Replies : 51Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Aug 6th, 2018, 19:06 | #11 |
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Last Online: Apr 22nd, 2024 12:26
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Yeovil
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I have been thinking of binning the coil overs, the ride isn't harsh, but every undulation makes you bounce around like a hillbilly in a leaf-sprung pickup, especially with the seats being so nicely sprung. They're new, so should hopefully offset the cost of putting new OEM suspension back on.
I changed the diff oil at the weekend, the old stuff was quite black and gacky, so a worthwhile job anyway - the back end might be a bit quieter but could be wishful thinking. I had suspicions of prop bearings etc causing the noise, as it's been lowered so glad in a way that it might be that rather than a cooked diff! Does the AW70 not have a sump drain plug then? Seems a bit daft if not. It's nice and smooth mostly, only slightly harsh when kicking-down 2 gears or changing up at high revs full loud pedal. Given the slightly neglected state of the rest of the car, it's a worthwhile check anyway. The stalling problem seems intermittent, when unused for a couple of days it does it, but if left for just 1 day - it's fine. Next couple of things I've noticed: -The drivers seat wobbles and has failed an MOT in the last year or two "Drivers seat cannot be secured in the upright position" which is slightly unnerving, apart from a slight bit of front to back movement it seems secure now though. -The engine makes an odd clicking noise, i've never heard pinking in the flesh, but the cambelt has been done in the last 200 miles so i'll be checking the timing, as well as all the ignition components. It really needs a music playing device and some speakers, even though the engine makes a satisfying whooshing roar, quite unlike any other car I've owned. That's all for now! |
Aug 6th, 2018, 19:40 | #12 |
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Last Online: Yesterday 23:44
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Have you got the live axle on it Tom? Or the multi-link rear suspension?
It looks too early to have the multi-link to be honest. As for the coil-overs, for them to be worth anything, you'd need to find someone who wanted them. Might be easy, maybe not. Most AW70s have a drain plug but it's quite well hidden in the middle of the sump pan - also by using the extraction pump, you can get the last dregs of the dirty oil out as the drain plug (on mine at least) is recessed, implying there is oil lower than the plug. Also if you do it with the pump and the car facing downhill, you get a better drain out of it. Have you checked all the bolts are in the drivers seat base? Should be four, 2 front and back. Can you get a recording of the strange clicking noise? Is it rhythmic, is it engine speed related or what? Is the distributor mounted on the back end of the camshaft or on the side of the block? That whooshing noise is your vicious coupled fan and should disappear once the engine is warm - if not you need a new coupling at the minimum but it would make more sense to convert it to an electric fan and save your eardrums taking a battering!
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Aug 7th, 2018, 08:39 | #13 |
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Rear axles are a relatively new thing to me, not had any dealings with them before. How would I tell the difference between the twwo you've mentioned Dave?
I've done nearly nothing with the car as of yet! The list is ever growing and we are hardly using it just now. I'm planning to do just the important/cheap things for now as we are in the process of moving house, so need to conserve cash until we know how much the solicitors/surveyors etc are going to cost. Not an ideal time to be buying another car that needs fettling! Seat base, I can check thurs/fri as I have some time off and i'll see about getting a recording of the ticking/clicking, the idle is a little lumpy even when warm and I think it misses slightly when cold - but I haven't yet checked the ignition system or much else really. It's quiet when idling but there, most notable when blipping the throtle or at part throttle when accelerating from standstill, it is rythmic. If the engine was high mileage i'd say it was the tappets - but less likely surely at 60000 miles on a redblock. The dizzy is at the back end of the engine, facing the bulkhead. Interesting that there are two different positions for it! Oh, and the battery, which coincidentally looks quite small, is held in place by a ratchet strap - pretty sure this isn't how it's supposed to be?! Does anyone have a picture handy of their battery and area? Are there bolt in parts available for the swap to electric cooling fans? I'm assuming i'll need a different radiator (for the switch), unless what I have already has a blankink plug etc. My brain is telling me that electric cooling fans will reduce engine load so maybe improve responsiveness (which would be lovely, this engine is quite lethargic) and a little bit of fuel economy/power. Thanks all. Last edited by TomSaintJames; Aug 7th, 2018 at 08:44. |
Aug 7th, 2018, 09:26 | #14 |
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I take it you don't have a Haynes manual for it then Tom? There are diagrams in there explaining the difference between the live axle and multilink axle.
This picture says it all though, multilink on the left, live axle on the right : This one shows how the live axle is located in the car : Out of interest, what oil did you put in the diff when you changed the diff oil? You've found your dream home then? That means it's a B200E then which puts it later than i thought. The very early cars had the dizzy mounted on the side of the block at the front of the engine. Also means the timing is non-adjustable. From the way you've described the behaviour of that "ticking" noise, it sounds like a loose/cracked exhaust manifold or possibly a duff exhaust manifold to head gasket, or some similar exhaust blow. The tappets need adjusting every once in a while, given that it's low mileage, there's a fair chance they've never been done so might be worth checking the valve clearances. Unusual for a redblock to need frequent tappet adjustment though. The battery should be an 027 which is quite small, especially given the size of the car. There should be a battery retaining plate and a long bolt with a loop on the top end - a screwdriver blade is put through the loop and it is tightened that way. An electric cooling fan will definitely reduce load on your engine and there are no kits available. Most aftermarket fans fix to the radiator using a sort of cable tie - bit tricky to explain so have a look at this ebay listing : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL...S/351184375919 As for the switch, you'll have to get a coolant hose adaptor and a switch and wire that in separately - i can find more details for you once you decide to do it.
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Aug 7th, 2018, 10:04 | #15 |
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I do have a Haynes, but it's in the car down the road! Quite definitely a live axle then going by those pictures.
I wanted to use EP 75W90 GL5 fully synthetic, but ended up getting EP 80W90 GL5 semi-synthetic as that's the closest my local motor factors had last Saturday morning, and as I was worried about the noise I wanted it done rather than order online and wait. Not dream home, we've gone for something cheap-ish with a big garden in a village, will be great to get out of town. We're currently in a new housing estate and whilst the house is nice and everything has a warranty, there is very limited parking and far too many neighbours in close proximity for my liking! We're lucky enough to be able to keep the current house and rent it out, plan is to keep it as a pension income, although i'm 28 so that's a fair way in the future! It is a B200E, is that a good thing? I had a look on the engine plate as I was curious to know which engine it was. The very handy pdf on here puts it at 121bhp with peak torque at 4800rpm! Not very useful. I'll need a battery retaining plate etc at some point then. It's secure enouigh for now, but goodness knows how it passed an MOT with it strapped on like this, surely it can't be safe in the eyes of an MOT man. I'll investigate the echaust manifold, luckily it's quite accessible on this car. The rest of the exhaust system is dubious anyway, and the extension that is used for the extended body is blowing, and maybe the pipes either side of it too (front silencer and middle). Thanks Dave for all your advice |
Aug 7th, 2018, 10:31 | #16 |
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Aug 7th, 2018, 10:55 | #17 | |
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Quote:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fit-with-...from=R40&rt=nc https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-O...from=R40&rt=nc Will give you a nice, smooth standard ride at the standard ride height. Those are also the best prices i found on fleabay, about double what i paid for mine but mine were listed as NOS and the seller is no longer registered on ebay so i guess he was closing down when i got mine. You've actually got the better oil for your axle - don't forget this car has its origins some 30 years before it was registered and not much changed in engineering terms - granted they tipped the engine over about 20 degrees and the head sprouted an OHC arrangement but it's not wildly different to the red blocks in the older Amazons/140 series etc. Likewise for the back axle. Good news on the house - both of them! Probably a better long-term idea than stretching yourself for a dream house that may have turned to a nightmare! There's nowt wrong with the B200E, that fact it is the B200E means Volvo have worked a bit of magic on it to give improved power and torque over the previous generation (B20), the downside is that the dizzy cap and rotor arm are now only shared with a Porsche model (924 i think) so they are expensive. A small price to pay in the long term and also the HT leads are slightly dearer than the older variety, not by much though. Have you invested in a set of feeler gauges yet? You'll need them for setting the plug gaps as they should be 0.7mm on this engine. I'm not sure of the gearing/final drive on yours but peak torque at 4800rpm isn't bad - the torque curve is quite flat if memory serves so ideally suited to an autobox. Once upon a time, batteries were secured by a rubber strap and there are still cars around like that - as long as the battery can't move it's not a major problem. However i would suggest finding and fitting the correct battery retaining plate and bolt. A number of options here, Volvo for a brand new one but will probably be a Classic Part so will have to come from Sweden, fine if you don't mind waiting. Also "tofufi" (Jim) on here recently broke a 760 TDi and probably has the battery retaining plate/clamp available. You'll have to get a few more posts before you can PM him though! If it's any help i can ask him if he has that part available. Most of the exhaust parts are readily available and if you know where to look, fairly cheaply as well. I'm guessing yours is on a cahngeover year so if you do have a look at the various parts of the exhaust, try to take as many photos as possible - it will help identify which original type system you have and narrow down the choice for the extension piece. I'd hazard a guess this is the exhaust system you have with an extension in there somewhere : If you're lucky, the extension is simply a straight piece of pipe added in - the good news is the longer pipe will improve low down torque!
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Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
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Aug 7th, 2018, 13:35 | #18 |
Grumpy git born too late!
Last Online: Mar 20th, 2024 01:04
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Welcome!
You didn't by any chance buy this from someone near Wimbledon? Swear I saw this parked up near Southfields last year! Cheers
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1997 965 2.5 SE Manual 1996 944 Classic 2.3 LPT - SOLD/BROKEN/SCRAPPED 1997 S90 3.0 - SOLD to doingitsideways 2021 Škoda Octavia Estate L iV PHEV (Company) Last edited by jonnyf90; Aug 7th, 2018 at 13:38. |
Aug 8th, 2018, 10:42 | #19 |
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Someone has nicked your headlight wipers.
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Aug 8th, 2018, 10:54 | #20 |
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If the car came from Wimbledon, they're probably sat in Tobermorys workshop awaiting fitment to Great Uncle Bulgarias glasses to wipe the condensation away when he drinks his morning coffee!
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