Blue smoke

[byootox]

Posted up a while back about this.
After being at high speed and coming to a stop then taking off I get a puff of blue smoke which only lasts a few seconds and is then gone.
I was in at the weekend replacing a cracked exhaust manifold with a japanifold but noticed the turbo was excessively worn(blades touching sides)
So new nuts,studs,manifold gaskets and a new turbo later some previous boost issues now resolved.
But it still gives a puff of blue after deceleration from high speed when taking off again off but to a lesser extent now.
Replaced all the breather system a couple of years ago, not the worst, but it had been worth doing anyway, slight suction on cap and dipstick which is always good news.
The holes in the block looked ok at that time as well.
However... I was wondering how bad the lower oil separator drain hole is for clogging up on these ?? particularly in the sump casting as the glove test certainly wouldn't show this fault up.
Not getting any puff of blue on start up or long idling conditions that would suggest stem seals although at 20 years I'm sure there past there best.
My thoughts are if the oil is getting dragged into the separator but not draining back into the sump it may be sooking a little bit in to the manifold then burning it.
Other than that the engine pulls like a champ with almost no smoke under heavy acceleration and no leaks whatsoever.

[huron]

I'd say that's valve stem seals.

[sdg1970]

Mine put the odd wuff of white/bluish smoke out when hot (on a hot day) after a period of idling, then taking up load. I was using 0/30 fully synthetic, but changed to 15/40 semi and it's been fine since.

[byootox]

Thanks for the input guys.
It would seem this is a common problem with these engines once the miles get up a bit.
I noticed on the American forums where they do much higher miles than us it seems to be really prevalent.
I'll spend another Saturday to drop the sump and make sure the breather drain hole gallery isn't blocked in the sump pan casting and bottom of the block and if it's fine I'll stick a set of stem seals in it and see if it cures it.

[Dippydog]

Out of interest can the stem seals on these be replaced with the head in situ-I know you can on some engines-or does the head need removing?

[byootox]

I believe so, you can get the tool on ebay for doing them in situ.
Plus you need air pressure down the plug hole to keep the valves in place when pushing against them.
I've got a compressor now so might have a go this way.

[Dippydog]

I should still have the tool somewhere for doing the Ford CVH engines,which I also managed to make work on a Senator 3L 12v straight 6 engine.Never had access to a compressor for the air pressure thing I just fed string into the plug holes*and then turned the engine by hand so the piston compressed that against the valves.

* If doing this at home kiddies don't forget to leave some of the string outside the plug hole so you can pull the string back out afterwards

[byootox]

Originally Posted by Dippydog

I should still have the tool somewhere for doing the Ford CVH engines,which I also managed to make work on a Senator 3L 12v straight 6 engine.Never had access to a compressor for the air pressure thing I just fed string into the plug holes*and then turned the engine by hand so the piston compressed that against the valves.

* If doing this at home kiddies don't forget to leave some of the string outside the plug hole so you can pull the string back out afterwards

12v Senator engine was one heavy lump of a thing, cast cylinder head if memory serves

[sdg1970]

I've done the rope trick many times over the years on various Cortinas and Capris with a Pinto in them.

On a different note I think I've managed to revitalise the seals in my V70R, by doing a myriad oil changes over the past 12 months and adding oodles of 'Stop Leak'.

[Clogs]

While this stuff may solve the problem temporarily, it's sticky goo and will clog your turbo pipes and cling to places it oughtn't cling to, which will then overheat and form a nasty crust inside parts of the engine that can do without nasty crusts of baked oil. If you're keeping the car, you're just storing up problems for later. I wouldn't touch the stuff.

Worn parts get worn because the oil wasn't changed often enough and the wrong oil is used.