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Oil PressureViews : 2059 Replies : 14Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Dec 27th, 2017, 21:03 | #1 |
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Oil Pressure
Hi, I am hoping that perhaps one of you good Volvo forum people will be able to help me with an oil pressure problem that I have with my 2007 C30 2.0D SE Sport.
Brief History My aunt bought this Volvo in 2011 with only 10,200 miles on the clock. She had it serviced by the local Volvo dealer regularly and I have all the records for it. She was using the car for work, but once she retired it was only used once a week to drive the 10 mile round trip to the shops. I bought the car in May this year and it has now only done a total of 37,000 miles. My Aunt was a very steady driver and the car was only used for short trips and rarely driven on the motorway or over 55 mph. My problem happened when I was driving it back to France. The oil warning light kept coming on but only when the car was stationary, or in slow moving traffic. When starting the car from cold and using no throttle the oil light goes out straight away, if you do the same procedure once the car has been driven the oil light will not go out till you use 1200 rpm, this would not be a problem but the car sounds rough and lumpy. I have flushed the engine, changed the oil filter and used the recommended synthetic oil. This did sort it, but only for 2,000 miles. It is now back to the rough lumpy engine, not good to drive. Has anyone had the same problem with this engine (D4204T) or can someone give me a way forward, I was thinking about changing the PCV but I think I need advice first :-) Many thanks. |
Dec 27th, 2017, 21:29 | #2 |
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First port of call always oil pressure switch?
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Dec 27th, 2017, 22:38 | #3 |
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The OP says the engine is rough and lumpy, so I doubt if it is a false warning.
Wild guess, but it sounds like severe fuel contamination thinning the oil due to too much short tripping. I would try using a major brand fuel injection system cleaner and use an 0 or 5w40 rather than the recommended 0w30. It would also be good to check the coolant and oil for signs of a HG leak, as that can also cause low oil pressure issues as any traces of anti freeze in the oil will cause oil sludge to form fairly quickly. If the oil pump screen blocks up that can also cause low oil pressure issues. If the cank vent system was blocked it would burn oil and in a real bad case start to smoke.
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Dec 27th, 2017, 23:07 | #4 |
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Have to say that the symptoms you describe are classically expensive as they suggest you are only maintaining oil pressure when the oil is thigh and sludgy - which generally means one of three things, big ends, small ends or oil pump - all painful.
As suggested, try a good flush and clean then use thicker oil, hopefully that will stop the light coming on ( though it won't have solved the root cause).
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Dec 28th, 2017, 08:26 | #5 |
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At what pressure does the light come on with these engines? Most I've come across is 7 psi, I would not be happy with driving an engine with only 7psi as most run at around 40 psi.
I would be looking at getting the sump off and physically checking big ends, main bearings, crank journals and oil pump. If the journals are serviceable new shell bearings can be fitted with it in situe but I suspect you will find them scored and it's then an engine out and rebuild job. Sorry, I think it's going to be expensive, especially if you are unable to do the spannering work yourself. An alternate would be to fit a good secondhand engine. Paul. |
Dec 28th, 2017, 08:36 | #6 | |
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Quote:
Before you rebuild the engine might be sensible to slave a reliable pressure gauge in and confirm exactly what the system PX is..... If the bearings were worn to the extent oil PX was as low as around 7psi you would be hearing some definite bearing knock , You may have nothing worse than a U/S sensor The rough running may with luck be another issue entirely , Best of luck . Last edited by straightsix; Dec 28th, 2017 at 08:42. |
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Dec 28th, 2017, 10:42 | #7 | |
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Dec 28th, 2017, 18:47 | #8 | |
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Quote:
You may have to move the power steering pipes in order to drop the sump but it can then be done with engine in the car. The TDI Volvo's had a habit of the oil pump gasket failing and this was a sump off job to repair, it was also known for the centre main bearing cap to crack, which often produced a knock but only after the two parts had parted. Any engine I suspected of having run with low oil pressure I would drop the sump on to inspect and make sure I knew what I was dealing with. Paul. |
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Dec 28th, 2017, 18:50 | #9 | |
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Quote:
Went to see a 2009 polo the other day with only 35k from new and ome owner. Full vw history, serviced as it ws meant to be (despite the low milage). Engine was ruined, oil level was very high and mostly diesel not oil, extensive internal damage to the shell bearings and head had occurred. Car also had very old perished tyres, shot dampers (dry seals) and mouldy damaged interior. Decided to keep my 110k mile example as it was much better. Owner did not know what they had done wrong, but it's very common people being sold cars that are not suited to their use. |
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Dec 28th, 2017, 19:04 | #10 | |
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Slightly different matter if you can do it yourself and enjoy lying under a car covered in oil skinning your knuckles in sub zero temperatures .... |
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