Volvo Community Forum. The Forums of the Volvo Owners Club

Forum Rules Volvo Owners Club About VOC Volvo Gallery Links Volvo History Volvo Press
Go Back   Volvo Owners Club Forum > "Technical Topics" > S40 / V40 '96-'04 General > x40 S1 Articles
Register Members CarsBlogs Help Calendar Mark Forums Read

Notices

Information
  • VOC Members: There is no login facility using your VOC membership number or the details from page 3 of the club magazine. You need to register in the normal way
  • AOL Customers: Make sure you check the 'Remember me' check box otherwise the AOL system may log you out during the session. This is a known issue with AOL.
  • AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net users. Forum owners such as us are finding that AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net are blocking a lot of email generated from forums. This may mean your registration activation and other emails will not get to you, or they may appear in your spam mailbox

Thread Informations

Replacing the Fuel Pump/Sender Unit

Views : 17159

Replies : 25

Users Viewing This Thread :  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old Apr 29th, 2012, 00:09   #1
gatos
Premier Member
 
gatos's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 10:26
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: London / Essex
Blog Entries: 2
Default Replacing the Fuel Pump/Sender Unit


This guide applies to all S40 and V40 from 1996 to 2004. The fuel pump sender unit might look different on the Phase 1 cars (1996-2000). The 1.9D, 1.9TD and 1.8 GDI S40 and V40 don't have the pump in the sender unit and instead use the high pressure pumps in the engine compartment. I have also attached in the bottom the VADIS instructions for this job, so have a read through them too if you want.

First of all you need to disconnect the car battery, as fuel is highly flammable. Make sure you have the Radio code for your stereo when disconnecting the battery. Avoid smoking or anything that may cause any sparks and make sure you have the rear doors or windows open for ventilation. Fuel fumes may smell nice and give you a high, but they are not good for you....

You now need to remove the rear seats. Lift the bases up and undo these 4 bolts and remove the seats out of the way


Then lift the carpet carefully and move it aside tucking the edges in the footwell areas so it stays there. Undo the four screws securing this top metal cover and remove it


You will now see another metal cover which seems to offer some extra protection and hold the pump/fuel deposit secured (only guessing here). Just lift it up and out of the way. You might need a screwdriver to lever it out, but most times it should just come out.


Now you can see the top of the fuel pump. Use a marker pen and mark a small line or dot where the pump body is in relation to the metal car body (Many thanks to Keith (960kg) for pointing this out to me)


Now you need to unclip the top connector which powers the fuel pump. Then you need to carefully remove the fuel line connectors. NOTE the connections for the fuel lines to avoid confusion when you are putting everything bck together. To remove the fuel lines you need to push in these two clips as seen in the next photo (one is red and other is black) and pull out the fuel lines. Make sure you have some sort of cloth or kitchen towels handy, as there will be a tiny bit of fuel spillage when disconnecting the fuel lines.

Move the fuel lines and power cable aside (I personally found it easier to tuck them under). You now need to remove the black ring/plastic nut/top cover securing the fuel pump to the tank. There is a special Volvo tool (9995622) for this which I don't have. I personally used a blunt large flat blade screwdriver (or a piece of wood) (positioned at the tip of the green arrow) and used a mallet to gently push the ring anticlockwise. After a few knocks (1-2 turns of the ring, you should be able to turn it by hand (both hands) and unscrew it.




Remove the black ring out of the way and lift up the fuel pump unit carefully, so you don't bend the metal rod of the floater. I found that after I raised the pump unit a couple of inches, I tilted it a bit forward and wiggled it out. JOB DONE!!!


When you want to put the pump back in, I found it easier to place the rubber seal around the fuel pump unit on the opening of the fuel tank and then push in the fuel pump unit in (see green arrow). Tighten the black ring to 50Nm


And a few more photos of the fuel pump sender unit




Close-up photo of potentiometer / fuel level sensor. If your fuel gauge is reading the fuel level incorrectly, give the contacts a good wipe to clean them




Hopes this helps some people and please take care when following this guide.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg fuelpumpvadis1.jpg (148.1 KB, 85 views)
File Type: jpg fuelpumpvadis2.jpg (346.6 KB, 108 views)
File Type: jpg fuelpumpvadis3.jpg (111.2 KB, 77 views)
__________________
Current car: 2002 S40 1.9D, 1992 240SE project
Previous Volvos: 1999 S40 1.8, 2001 S40 T4

Click here for my S40/V40 Info and Guides
Nullius in Verba

Last edited by gatos; Apr 29th, 2012 at 00:54.
gatos is online now   Reply With Quote
Old Apr 29th, 2012, 01:22   #2
Recognized
Senior Member
 
Recognized's Avatar
 

Last Online: Oct 19th, 2018 17:56
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Bristol
Default

Fantastic! Thank you! It was so clean inside, or u cleaned it?
__________________
Recognized is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Recognized For This Useful Post:
Old Apr 29th, 2012, 01:33   #3
gatos
Premier Member
 
gatos's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 10:26
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: London / Essex
Blog Entries: 2
Default

Nope. That's exactly how it was. I only wiped the top part which is exposed to the outside. This pump and the guide itself is actually from Siamblue's previous T4
__________________
Current car: 2002 S40 1.9D, 1992 240SE project
Previous Volvos: 1999 S40 1.8, 2001 S40 T4

Click here for my S40/V40 Info and Guides
Nullius in Verba
gatos is online now   Reply With Quote
Old Apr 29th, 2012, 01:49   #4
rexer12
Premier Member
 
rexer12's Avatar
 

Last Online: Aug 7th, 2018 21:25
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: doncaster
Blog Entries: 2
Default

fantastic how to as always gatos
__________________
2013 V40 D3 manual, standard
rexer12 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to rexer12 For This Useful Post:
Old Apr 29th, 2012, 16:40   #5
Recognized
Senior Member
 
Recognized's Avatar
 

Last Online: Oct 19th, 2018 17:56
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Bristol
Default





Unit from Russia...There is one huge problem to find good quality fuel...
__________________
Recognized is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Apr 29th, 2012, 16:56   #6
gatos
Premier Member
 
gatos's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 10:26
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: London / Essex
Blog Entries: 2
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Recognized View Post

Unit from Russia...There is one huge problem to find good quality fuel...
Wtf??? I am surprised that thing is even working. You know you can remove that filter at the bottom and clean it inside.
__________________
Current car: 2002 S40 1.9D, 1992 240SE project
Previous Volvos: 1999 S40 1.8, 2001 S40 T4

Click here for my S40/V40 Info and Guides
Nullius in Verba
gatos is online now   Reply With Quote
Old Apr 29th, 2012, 19:29   #7
bar72
Member
 
bar72's Avatar
 

Last Online: Jul 27th, 2014 17:59
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Cupar
Default

bookmarked alex ;o)
bar72 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Apr 29th, 2012, 19:33   #8
gatos
Premier Member
 
gatos's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 10:26
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: London / Essex
Blog Entries: 2
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bar72 View Post
bookmarked alex ;o)
. All my guides are here: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/blog.php?b=846
__________________
Current car: 2002 S40 1.9D, 1992 240SE project
Previous Volvos: 1999 S40 1.8, 2001 S40 T4

Click here for my S40/V40 Info and Guides
Nullius in Verba
gatos is online now   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to gatos For This Useful Post:
Old Jun 23rd, 2012, 14:15   #9
tt82
Forum Support Team
 
tt82's Avatar
 

Last Online: Oct 20th, 2018 08:49
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Here.... obviously!
Default

After a few months of having no fuel in my car, I now have a working guage again. Yeah.

Cheers for the guide Alex.
__________________
The more people I meet, the more I like my dog!


tt82 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to tt82 For This Useful Post:
Old Jul 7th, 2012, 21:32   #10
mechakev
Master Member
 

Last Online: Jun 4th, 2018 17:49
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: York
Default

Great guide, may I add a tip?
Check the condition of the cables from the fuel reading potentiometer and the top of the pump. The up and down motion can cause the cable to break. A multimeter is great for checking this kind of stuff out. A quick solder fixed mine (my gauge was showing empty).
__________________
'04 s60 d5 se. Brrruuuummm etc

Last edited by mechakev; Jul 7th, 2012 at 21:37.
mechakev is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to mechakev For This Useful Post:
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 10:44.


Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.