Chris1Roll's return to 700 ownership

[Chris1Roll]

Thanks guys, yes I'm hoping its just the gaskets. now I look more at that picture I took under the manifold with the endoscope, maybe there is some soot top left.
Fingers crossed!

Failing that, I guess 'drive it until it becomes obvious' is an option


I remember my B230E GLE used to continually blow the manifold to downpipe joint as the nuts would self-dissasemble themselves from the studs, but that was an obvious deep exhaust blowing noise.

[Rversteeg]

Onto the oil and filter, and I've decided it is literally impossible to remove the filter on these without making a mess. This time I tried putting a plastic bag over it but that didn't help. The fact I was short of blue towel to put under it didn't make it any cleaner either.

Quite true. I use one of those washing machine drip trays underneath the engine when I am working with oil or coolant. Not for draining the oil in, but just to catch anything that drips beside the oil drain pan.

[Chris1Roll]

Finally got Amy in the car to have a listen, since my hearing is pretty useless really.
She said "Sounds more like the fan with a leaf stuck in to to me, rather than a metallic noise". Somewhat reassuring.

Did about an hour and a quarters drive with it yesterday, noise still there but nothing like what it was when it first happened. Turned onto a nice long clear straight and let it run up close to the redline and it pulls along just fine.

In the meantime a new toy turned up:



More tools are always good, especially when they have flashing lights on them.

Although when I removed the distributor, I made sure I put it back in exactly the same place, I'm relying on whoever else had it off in the past doing the same. Since it was up to operating temperature after our little run, I decided to have a play.

Operator error at first had me thinking it was faulty when the inductive tacho part said it was doing 2,410rpm at idle. I then noticed there is an arrow on the pickup that has to point towards the plug. Interesting that this makes a difference.
Once it was hooked up correctly, I wound the hot idle down to 900rpm (you may remember I have it set to around 1100 in P so its comfortable when in D), removed the vacuum line to the ECU and pointed at the crank pulley.
It's as close to 12deg BTDC as it can be given the accuracy of the markings on the timing cover, which is good news. Advance seems to function too.
So thats that off the list of things to do/check for now.

While I was doing this, I spotted this little electical gizmo that I hadn't really acknowledged up till now, and I don't recall seeing on my previous cars:


Now to me, that looks like a solenoid valve attached to the idle speed air circuit. I suspect for idle speed compensation when engaging drive. If that is what it is, it clearly doesn't work but it would be very good to fix.

Starting point I guess would be to undo the allen bolts and remove the whole assembly and drench in carb cleaner.

Anyone know if there is a gasket, or an 'o ring' behind it?


I had another play with the endoscope too. This is the underneath of No3 manifold-head joint.
Its hard to get in focus, but I reckon that is soot?


I'm not touching it until the XC is through its MOT just in case it all goes wrong...
I've got a set of Elring gaskets, I've ordered some new copper flashed nuts, and also a full set of Volvo studs (actually ordered them from the Volvo penta website as they came up cheapest that way)
I'l replace the nuts as a matter of course, but if the studs are ok once the manifold is off and clean up alright I won't risk snapping one in the head for the sake of it and the new ones can go in the spares box. Fingers crossed.

I really hope that is it.

Before then, I've got a 50 motorway miles to do in the week. I'll take it steady and she'll chug on!

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Chris1Roll

While I was doing this, I spotted this little electical gizmo that I hadn't really acknowledged up till now, and I don't recall seeing on my previous cars:


Now to me, that looks like a solenoid valve attached to the idle speed air circuit. I suspect for idle speed compensation when engaging drive. If that is what it is, it clearly doesn't work but it would be very good to fix.

Have you got air-con on your car Chris and if not, what is the cold idle speed?

Can't remember if my 740s had that or not but the idle speed is meant to drop to 6-700rpm in D from 900rpm normally.

[Chris1Roll]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Have you got air-con on your car Chris and if not, what is the cold idle speed?

Can't remember if my 740s had that or not but the idle speed is meant to drop to 6-700rpm in D from 900rpm normally.

Nope, no air con.

When starting from cold, it idles about 1000 rpm (ish) for a short while, which is as good as I could get the AAV to do, before dropping off quite rapidly.

In D with a cold engine the idle is too low that the car resonates a bit which is irritating. Not a problem when starting off at home as I simply drive off and the next time I have to stop the car is warm enough to idle at ~800 in D which is comfortable, its if I have to move straight into traffic with a cold engine that its annoying.
80's driving experience!

I've also been studying the green book for ignition systems.
About the EZ-118K for the Kjet and carbed engines it says this:

EZ-118K may be provided with one or two idling compensation functions if the car is equipped with automatic trans-
mission and/or air conditioning. If either function is activated, the control unit will advance the timing at idling by 8o
to compensate for the higher engine load.
A. Certain models equipped with automatic transmission are provided with a function which advances the timing
when a drive position is selected , to compensate for the increased load imposed by the torque converter.
The starting interlock switch (2 1) opens the relay coil (22) ground connection when the gear select or is moved to
position R. D, 2 or 1. This closes the relay contacts, supplying 12 V to the timing advance terminal on the control
unit (1) . The control unit will advance the timing if the idling (air control) switch (19) also indicates that the engine
is idling

(B was about Aircon)

. Idling compensation operated by the ignition system control unit is not required on engines on which the idling valve is connect-
ed to the fuel system control unit (CIS system) or to a special CIS control unit. On engines of this type. the CIS valve ensures that
extra air, as well as additional fuel, is supplied to the engine to compensate for the increased load

[Chris1Roll]

New Boots and Panties!!

I'd been putting this off on the off chance that a set of unkerbed 15" alloys might have come available, but after spending some time on the M5 in the pouring rain last week, I decided delaying any more was stupid.
I was acutely aware of the state of these two which although legal, were certainly past their best:


Erm....:

They've certainly done their time!

And the other two, some 2020 dated Avons, had worrying looking cracking on the inner sidewalls.


Its been quite a while since I've had to buy my own tyres. Previously I'd always gone for Michelin Pilots, but they don't even make the newest ones below 17" now!
In the end I plumped for a full set of Michelin Primacy 4's. Following a post on another forum where I learned that Asda sell tyres, they were considerably cheaper than anywhere else at £324 for all 4 fitted.

A workshop very local to us working out of some former agricultural buildings that we have used a couple of times before were on the fitters list so I had them do that this afternoon.


Should be a lot more composed in the rain now!

[griston64]

Originally Posted by Chris1Roll

New Boots and Panties!!

I'd been putting this off on the off chance that a set of unkerbed 15" alloys might have come available, but after spending some time on the M5 in the pouring rain last week, I decided delaying any more was stupid.
I was acutely aware of the state of these two which although legal, were certainly past their best:


Erm....:

They've certainly done their time!

And the other two, some 2020 dated Avons, had worrying looking cracking on the inner sidewalls.


Its been quite a while since I've had to buy my own tyres. Previously I'd always gone for Michelin Pilots, but they don't even make the newest ones below 17" now!
In the end I plumped for a full set of Michelin Primacy 4's. Following a post on another forum where I learned that Asda sell tyres, they were considerably cheaper than anywhere else at £324 for all 4 fitted.

A workshop very local to us working out of some former agricultural buildings that we have used a couple of times before were on the fitters list so I had them do that this afternoon.


Should be a lot more composed in the rain now!

they look more like BC than AD

[Laird Scooby]

Jeeeeez, i've scrapped better tyres than those!

In fact, much of the reason i renewed all 4 on my Jag about 9 months ago was the previous winter, it nearly got intimate with a telegraph pole on a T junction near me.
The newest tyres were Pirelli P7s on the back, ~10 years old, the fronts were Pirelli P6000s about 12 years old.
All had good tread, no cracking up like yours but lacked grip because they'd gone old and dry.

I'd earlier the same day turned the same T junction in my 760 on 2-3 year old Invovic (yes, Chinese but amazing grip and quiet too but do wear somewhat quicker than others) tyres and that didn't even twitch, never mind lose steering and slide towards the telegraph pole!

The weather hadn't changed, i was, if anything, being even more careful in the Jag so the only difference would have been the tyres.

I've come to a conclusion that tyres are only designed to stay supple for 5 years based on the average use being 10k/year and average wear life of a tyre being 30k miles. The 5 year thing is for someone only doing 6k miles a year so they are still safe on low mileage cars until they are past the expected lifetime.
How right i am i really don't know but it works as a good rule of thumb.

[Chris1Roll]

Indeed.
Having been quite preachy myself about tyres in the past, I have no legitimate excuse for not changing them as soon as I bought it, aside maybe looking for some alloys, and all the hassle around the sourcing of a suitable part-worn Pirelli Scorpion with a precise amount of tread for the V70XC so it didn't eat it's viscous coupling. I was hoping to avoid buying 8 tyres at once!

Still, all sorted now, nice new rubber on the 740, and the XC now has 4 even-ish tyres and its propshaft back on and is back in 4 wheel drive mode!

[classicswede]

Originally Posted by Chris1Roll

While I was doing this, I spotted this little electical gizmo that I hadn't really acknowledged up till now, and I don't recall seeing on my previous cars:


Now to me, that looks like a solenoid valve attached to the idle speed air circuit. I suspect for idle speed compensation when engaging drive. If that is what it is, it clearly doesn't work but it would be very good to fix.
!

I have not seen one before that I remember. I have had a bit of a search and not come up with anything other than a image on a 924 forum https://www.924board.org/viewtopic.p...62d02458a28544