Volvo V50 - need help changing Crankshaft Pulley

[NI_Volvo_Nut]

Originally Posted by Lion Heart

Hey NI_Volvo_Nut

Yes, I think jamming the flywheel is a decent option.

That bar will not work for me. My pulley is solid with no holes. You mention putting drill bits in the smaller holes - I don't have any holes at all in the pulley (2.0 D). Mine is solid. Only one hole, for the central bolt.

So I guess that option is out for the 2.0 D anyway :-(

Yeah, just looked at the ebay link. There may be a plate on the bottom of the gearbox which may let you at the flywheel.

I use my gun at 150psi, anything under 100psi and it's useless.

[Lion Heart]

Hey guys

Got this done now, so thought I'm come back and let you know how I got on.

I upgraded my air tools to some beefier ones, and tried the air gun on the bolt but but it could not crack it off because the pulley was free to turn.

So, decided to check VIDA and see the factory process. That pulley has to be removed for the timing belt change, so got the details from that section of VIDA.

Basically, before the pulley bolt is removed the flywheel is locked in place using a special tool.

I found the cambelt tool on eBay, which was only £18.49 so bit the bullet. Better to do the job to Volvo factory spec.

You have to remove the throttle body first to gain access to the starter motor, which also has to be removed. There are two bolts on the rear and three on the front, for future reference you don't need to remove the rear two, just the front three and then pull it out 3-4" so it's out of the way.

The tool then attached between the top and bottom bolt hole that the starter motor just got detached from, and there is a 'tooth' in the middle of the tool that slides down and locks into place using the bolt head. That locks the flywheel and so the crankshaft pulley cannot turn.

The bolt has nut lock (blue) on it as standard, and after time etc can be VERY tight, like mine was.

My new gun (1,690nm) was not quite getting it. Had to apply heat using a blowtorch. 2 x 1 minute blasts did it for me.

Then blasted it again with the air gun. 10 second blasts. Keep going.

I had drawn a line in marker across the bolt head and the washer below (recommended!!!) The amount of movement is so small to begin with that you cannot even 'see' it moving really. I was going to give up but noted that my marker lines were no longer lined up!

So kept blasting with the gun and eventually he started to come.

Pulley just 'wiggles' (pulls) off.

New pulley came with a new bolt. 70nm and then 60 degree's (think of it like a clock face, I went from 4 o'clock to 6 o'clock).

Then new belt.

Tested, and squeak has gone!

Also there is a LOT less 'wobble' on the pulley. There is still a little bit, but I guess they are kind of meant to do that to a degree. But I'd say maybe 1/4 of the wobble of the original, so the old one was definitely knackered.

Pulley was £48 (Febi Bilstein)
Belt was £14
Cambelt tool £18.49

That bolt would NOT have been able to be removed without locking the flywheel (simply too tight!), and also I'm pretty sure it would not have come out without the heat too.

So, a bit of a nightmare, but followed the factory procedure rather than try and bodge it, and worked ok in the end!

[M0RganMan]

Current subject for me, There seems to be a difference of opinion on the correct torque for the crankshaft bolt on the D4204T engine.

I have Autodata books which show:-
90nm + 90deg (for the V70 2.0D with engine code D4204TS (I think but not just a 'T' suffix)
Volvo How to .com shows for D4204T (under C70 engine specs) 70nm + 260deg, this seems incredibly high to me.
Now above in this forum I see 70nm + 60deg

Any thoughts please folks?
Cheers

p.s. The bolt I purchased today from a Volvo agent is PT No 30725216 and is not marked by that agents system as a stretch bolt! I am confused

[Lion Heart]

70nm and then 60 degree's

That's from the VIDA instructions (Volvo workshop manual)