Volvo V50 - need help changing Crankshaft Pulley

[Lion Heart]

I checked the torque setting in Vida. Yes, you are right. It says 50nm, but I guess that's just to hold it in place as it then later says:

Stage 1: 70nm
Stage 2: 60 °

Now, from memory of Vida that ° means degree's? So that would be 70nm + 60 degree's.

Would you agree?

[Lion Heart]

Wow, that's amazing...

I input (without spaces) & # 1 7 6 ;

And it auto converted it to the degree symbol. So I guess that answers that!!

70nm plus 60 degrees.

[Lion Heart]

Hey Cheshired5

Our message crossed over! Glad you spotted that odd degree symbol code too.

Yes, looking at Vida they remove the starter motor and also the engine mount on one side using a frame from above the engine bay.

They then the locking tools like you mentioned.

That would definitely work, but I don't have those locking tools for one, and that's a LOT of work just to remove that pulley for two.

I cannot find in Vida any instructions for removing only the crankshaft pulley, only as part of the complete timing belt replacement.

Agree that trying it in P may be a risk, so not happy to do that.

Maybe just remove the starter motor and put a screwdriver (or similar) to lock the flexplate (auto flywheel). Would that do it?

How about using the air impact gun without locking it at all? Do you think it will just turn the pulley? The instructions warn that the crank should only be rotated clockwise, which is a pain for trying to undo it!!!

[NI_Volvo_Nut]

You can't lock an auto using the transmission, you could remove the starter and use a screwdriver to hold the flywheel or make a tool as shown above.

2 drill bits in the smaller bolt holes and a decent bar jammed to hold the pulley.

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by Lion Heart

How about using the air impact gun without locking it at all? Do you think it will just turn the pulley? The instructions warn that the crank should only be rotated clockwise, which is a pain for trying to undo it!!!

A decent impact wrench should have the nut/bolt off and back on without issue.

The Bosch electric cordless which I use undid my 300Nm crank pulley nut in less than 2 seconds with no holding tools and no backwards engine rotation as shown in my video here.

[Lion Heart]

Hey NI_Volvo_Nut

Yes, I think jamming the flywheel is a decent option.

That bar will not work for me. My pulley is solid with no holes. You mention putting drill bits in the smaller holes - I don't have any holes at all in the pulley (2.0 D). Mine is solid. Only one hole, for the central bolt.

So I guess that option is out for the 2.0 D anyway :-(

[Lion Heart]

Hey cheshired5

Nice video - and great tool as well!!!

That video is just what I needed to see!

Your pulley is different to mine, and noted you have a nut that you remove, whereas I have a long bolt that passes through the middle. Same principal but I'd expect a bolt to be harder to remove that a nut?

I bought a decent Sealey Air Impact Wrench a while ago. It has working torque 544nm and maximum torque 626nm. Connected to a decent air compressor (Clarke) which I set at 100psi approx as working pressure for tools is 90psi.

However, I have noted that it struggles with tight nuts, and could not undo my wheel bolts at 110nm.

I've been considering getting a 1600nm gun, but they are so expensive!!

If you're well into your impact tools - am I doing something wrong as a 600nm tool should not refuse to remove 100nm bolts!!!

That's been at the back of my mind for this job - will my tool get that bloody bolt out!!?!?!?!!!

I have the Clarke compressor which passes through a regulator for condensation and oil. The dials on both sit around 100psi approximately This drops of course the longer you use the tool continuously.

[cheshired5]

If a 5-600Nm wrench can't undo a 110Nm bolt, either the bolt is done up considerably more than expected, the wrench is defective or there's an air supply problem.

Luckily, I can get away with just using electric cordless so there's less troubleshooting to be done if things aren't right.

Torque is torque so whether on a nut or a bolt, results should be similar.
Sure, a bolt has a longer thread so more opportunities for corrosion to play a factor but on something as protected as a crank pulley, I doubt there's much if any difference.

[canis]

ah, my pulley has four bolts attaching the aux pulley to the timing pulley. In your case, my tool would be useless to you.

Holding the flywheel ring gear would be the way, as others have mentioned. Might need a bit more than a screwdriver though, remember youll be opposing whatever force you apply to the nut/bolt you're trying to undo.

Impact gun - someone stole mine before I even got to use it, so no idea on that. The reason for not turning engines backwards is that the timing belt will pull on the tensioner instead of the camshafts, meaning it'll lose a couple of degrees temporarilly until it's spun forwards again. A few degrees is probably harmless, but best avoided preferably.

Seems a lot of hassle just for a squeeky belt. I'd just change the belt and have done with it. Or am I on the wrong thread?

[Lion Heart]

Hmmm... I think I may be running to low pressure. I set at 100psi resting to try and get 90psi operating, but I have a feeling it may well drop well below that with tool fully opened. I'll run some tests on that today :-)

I'd love that electric tool you have there, but that's a pricey piece of kit!!!

I had an electric one from eBay by Boschmann, but that was well underpowered (£70ish).

I'm looking at KS Tools Monster air which is 1,600nm on 1/2". People rave about that on the amazon reviews. £160ish.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/KS-Tools-51...+tools+monster

Anyway, that's off topic. I'm going to try and get 90psi operating pressure on my compressor later today and then I'm going to have a go at that bolt and see if it will come out.

I've already ordered the new pulley which comes with a new bolt (Febi brand - £40ish).

Fingers crossed, as that would make the job so much easier!

I have torque bars which I can use to limit the torque when tightening. I'd just have to estimate what 70nm + 60 degree's would be in nm and use the nearest bar I have.

60 degree's is one one third of 180 (one 6th of 360), so I'm guessing 70nm + 60 degree's would get to around 110nm - 130nm???????