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rocker box/valve cover

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Old Feb 8th, 2011, 21:40   #1
volvonic272
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Default rocker box/valve cover

Restoring my 1965 P1800 engine. I would like some help on the closest shade of silver to paint the rocker cover or is it zinc coated. This would save me time if someone has done theirs. Does the paint have to be high temperature?
Any polite suggestions would be welcome.

Thanks dave
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Old Feb 8th, 2011, 21:51   #2
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The weren't painted, they're cadmium plated originally. The nearest finish you'll readily get is silver zinc passivated or nickel plated.
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Old Feb 8th, 2011, 22:16   #3
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Originally Posted by 940_Turbo View Post
The weren't painted, they're cadmium plated originally. The nearest finish you'll readily get is silver zinc passivated or nickel plated.
We do Cad plating at my company. You will appreaciate it is heavily controlled and few if any companies are left.
If you want it CAD plated I can inquire
Russ
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Old Feb 12th, 2011, 19:09   #4
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I would be interested.

Could even possibly get a batch done - price dependant.
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Old Feb 12th, 2011, 19:46   #5
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I would be interested.

Could even possibly get a batch done - price dependant.
Traditionally we have only supplied the defence market but are looking to expand the treatment capability. We have the largest treatment center on the south coast.
I had all my bolts CAD plated prior to rerassembly on the suspension. I would suggest you give me a list of parts and I will ask.
One other thing; I work away alot leaving Tuesday but will be back in the country the first week of March. Gewt your list to me tommorow and I will ask Monday
Russ
PS Do you want deembrittlement after treatment?
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Old Feb 14th, 2011, 08:28   #6
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I used to work in the british motorcycle industry (Norton, Matchless, AJS) at a time when cadmium plating was the norm. I would say that deembrittlement is essential for any safety related items like suspension bolts particulary if the type of steel used is unknown. I have witnessed first hand items that have snapped just by being tightened but they don't aways snap straight away!
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Old Feb 14th, 2011, 15:53   #7
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I used to work in the british motorcycle industry (Norton, Matchless, AJS) at a time when cadmium plating was the norm. I would say that deembrittlement is essential for any safety related items like suspension bolts particulary if the type of steel used is unknown. I have witnessed first hand items that have snapped just by being tightened but they don't aways snap straight away!
I would agree with suspension components as a belts and braces but the CAD process doesnt induce the stresses the other treatment processes do (reason that it is retaned in defence/aero markets).
It will be a added cost as you need to heat soak for 24 hrs at a descending rate.
Ive always use the process but a freiend doesnt and never had any problems.
Think is when you buy your shiny bolts from ebay how many have had deembrtittlement??!¬
Russ
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Old Feb 14th, 2011, 16:13   #8
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If as Dai suggests, a batch of rocker covers are redone, I'd certainly be very interested
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Old Feb 16th, 2011, 07:39   #9
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I have recently had my rocker cover zinc plated and it looks fine for what I want but be warned the plating process be it zinc or cadmium will remove rust but will not remove the rough surface where the rust has been. The result can be a patchy finish of shiny and dull areas unless ofcourse you have the cover polished before plating to give a smooth surface all over but then it will look better than they did originally. As they say you pay your money and make your choice.

By the way embrittlement is an issue for high tensile steels and not the average bolts you buy and hence why caution is need when dealing with safety related components. It is good to hear someone can still do Cadmium I still think it looks better than zinc on older cars but I guess it is may be expensive. Any chance of a contact when I next need some plating done?
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Old Feb 16th, 2011, 15:20   #10
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I know its nice to get that original look. What do ye think about a rattle can special? My cover was nasty looking with surface rust over most of it. I rubbed it down well, then gave a couple of coats of primer followed by a few coats of silver. I rubbed it down between each coat. Very happy with the result:

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