Engine: 2.3 F/Inj B23E/B230F: B23A to B230FT conversion

[Bugjam1999]

Alex O - Think you meant 240rat rod not me....

Whilst talking about exhausts, mine is 2.5 stainless all the way with two big silencers in it as I wanted it as quiet as possible- measured at 78dB at a trackday static test at 4,000 rpm. It’s pretty quiet...

Rat rod- what are the wheels on your car? 17inch Peugeot steels?

Oh another thing - buy or beg/borrow an impact wrench, it’ll speed things up no end

Cheers

[Bugjam1999]

Another thing- the 940 intercooler with top entry and exit pipes will bolt straight in using radiator intercooler mounts from a 240 turbo as that’s the intercooler the 240 turbos got, the 940 pipework fits just fine. I bought 240 mounts from eBay.com, but the conversion rate was better in 2015 so that might be more expensive now.

The mid entry mid exit intercooler will also fit, but you’ll need to weld some brackets for it - which is easy, but a bit faffy if you need someone else to weld for you. The standard 940 pipework will fit this too.

Or go for something bigger... Isuzu npr intercoolers bolt in fine apparently but they’re hard to find in the Uk, I’ve heard that an Iveco eurocargo intercooler will fit but have only seen pictures, not one in person.

Cheers.

[240ratrod]

Yes they are 17" Peugeot/Citroen steel wheels, banded 3in at the rear and 2in at the front. With Peugeot van centre caps.
I went yellow to match the prancing moose sticker.

The car is lowered on custom GAZ adjustable coilovers.

I was planning on measuring the available space and buying a universal intercooler to fit. I can make some brackets to mount and the associated pipework. If I find something from another car which works I may go that route but I fancy a shiny new one!

On another note I've read that the CBV can leak so I thought I'd fabricate a blanking plate and install an external recirculation type valve.
OR I've found the valves that can recirculate, dump to atmos. or do a combination of both. Installing the latter way should please the MAF and still give some nice noises. Thoughts?

With mine being an auto I won't get the lift off tssh on gearchange as the throttle doesn't close creating vacuum on shift. But throttle lift off will still work. Yes?

Also looking at getting an electronic dual stage boost controller.
I've got this idea of having a 'sport' switch on the dash, bare with me.
Activating the switch would engage the DSBC upping the boost from 7psi to 10-12psi. It would also open an exhaust bypass valve.
That way I can have a standard mode which would be quiet and put less stress on the engine, or sport mode which gives me a nice rumble and full boost.

[Bugjam1999]

cool - I'd go for big steelies if I didn't already have wheels I'm happy with. I doubt you'll struggle with traction issues with rear tyres that wide, even with a turbo engine

Of course there are aftermarket options available, but to get up and running as quickly as possible with minimal fuss, then the 940 intercooler you already have will fit... the pipework you have from the 940 will most likely fit an aftermarket intercooler too, you'll just need the right sized silicone joiners.

The CBV can leak, but it's a simple gasket to change if it is leaking. My approach would be to get the engine in and running before changing things like the CBV for a BOV etc. You may find that the existing noise is loud enough actually - it's muted considerably by the 940 airbox, with a cone filter and the boost turned up my car makes a nice 'tssh' on lift off, especially at higher revs. If you want turbo flutter noises etc. then you'll want to do something more, but like I said - I'd try and get the engine in the car and running before messing with it. If you have everything running well and change things one at a time, it's a lot easier to fault find

The two stage boost switch has been done before, have a look on turbobricks. I seem to recall that the change wasn't instant though as the ecu had to learn the new boost settings all over again each time, which defeats the purpose really. Don't quote me on that though, I haven't looked into it much. Same as above though, I'd get the engine in and running with the boost as it is now, before fitting a MBC. That'll give you a chance to sort out any running niggles before any new issues get thrown into the mix.

Just my approach to things.

Cheers.

[240ratrod]

Yeah I've read the good thing about the LH 2.4 is it's ability to learn and adapt for mods.

Hadn't considered though that changing the boost level would mess the maps up. That's a good bit of advice and maybe I'll just stick a MBC (once installed) and not try to be a smart arse!

With not being able to much right now my brain is thinking of all sorts of things I want to do....maybe the old walk before you run phrase is apt here!

Yesterday I had some start issues, as in it wouldn't run (the 240). Once it cooled down it fired up fine. I think it's telling me it needs to pulled out and the conversion started! I found some shocking wiring in there...the coolant sensor on the head had no sheathing on the wire at all! There are some others very bad connections too so looks my loom has succumbed to the volvo rot!

Based on " get the engine in and running" thought, I'm thinking of doing some basic maintenance like plugs and leads, cambelt, cam cover gasket, oil filter and then installing. Changing the water pump, HG, for example, would be an easily accessible job down the line if needed.

There are no known or visible issues on the B230 and when I start I need to have a running car ASAP. Mods can be done one at a time as suggested with the engine in and running.

[mylittletony]

+1 everything Seb says ^^

Mine is loud to the point of being obnoxious with a cone filter...

You should change both crank seals while the engine is apart, and the aux shaft seal. Water pump while doing cambelt really, although it might well be fine to stay on.

[classicswede]

Going back to basics here is what I would suggest

New gaskets and seals on the engine, pull the head a resurface
New cam blanking plate
Fit block mounted dizzy and shaft along with new cap, rotor, plugs and leads.
Water pump leave alone if good = SKF are looking like teh only good pump on the market right now if replacing
Engine mounts - poly if you can live with some vibration at idle or stronger rubber mounts
Intercooler as you want a all alloy https://www.classicswede.co.uk/24074..._15939121.aspx
and use the non AC hoses with that for a easy bolt in solution
Exhaust 2.5inch is plenty big enough for what you are looking at going and will be good for on beyond.
Gearbox side of things you have sorted keeping your autobox
wiring - to use the 240 wiring loom you need the whole car wiring loom as it is intergrated in. On customer builds I only fit the new conversion looms as the hourly rate for converting a 940 loom or swapping a full 240 loom is more than the cost of the new loom.
Turbo a tdo4 from a 850/v70 is least hassle to fit but to get you going for now you could just use your 13c
Cam I would do now with the engine out. Shimming is a nicer job on the bench than it is in the engine bay

If have all the parts to hand and the new gaskets fitted to the engine its very possible to get the swap done over a weekend

[Bugjam1999]

Leave the waterpump on the turbo engine if it isn't leaking etc.

Don't leave the headgasket and head skim for when it's in the car, it's possible but a load more work than when the engine is out and on the stand. This can be done before you start the conversion of course, so it's all back together and ready.

If you have a load of dedicated and helpful mates, you might just get it done in a weekend. Shame you're so far away or I'd pop over for a chat.

Cheers

[240ratrod]

Thank you for yet more awesome advice.

I'll put a shopping list together and see if I've missed anything.

Re loom: I've a friend locally who says he has a car with all the appropriate looms. So I'm off to see what he's got.

Re downpipe: classicswede, how far out are your mandrel bent ones and what will the price be? Again if you need a demo car!

It is sound sense to do as much as possible now...I'm just impatient!

[classicswede]

I will have done the test fit this weekend.

Price on the downpipes will only be £20 more than the old price so worth the extra