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D24T timing belt change

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Old Oct 28th, 2007, 20:50   #1
tfb
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Last Online: Apr 3rd, 2024 09:38
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: chatteris
Default D24T timing belt change

Managed to change the timing belt yesterday. Fellow forum member JOR came up to lend a hand and I was certainly glad of the assistance

On the whole it didn't go too badly, it took us about 6hrs including a lunch break and a fair amount of head-scratching and cursing.

We each had copies of the Volvo D24 service manual and we partially followed this and partly worked on common sense. We found more evidence of previous bodge jobs on the alternator adjustment arm, which explained why the belt is so loose and I get some screeching on acceleration when cold.

Everything was going quite well until it came time to get the big bolt out of the center of the crank-shaft. I tried an electric impact driver on but it didn't budge, then tried putting it gear and standing on the brakes but all that happened was the car began moving!. After a bit more cursing and head-scratching, JOR came up with the idea of a length of chain around the pulley and a long bar through the chain and applying tension. But we couldn't get enough grip around pulley, although I suspect a length of motorbike drive chain may work better as it would provide a bit more surface area contact.

At this point we broke for lunch and a think. Over the ham and cheese rolls we came up with the idea of using some Uni-strut with a couple of bolts through it. (see picture attached)

Now suitably refueled it was out with the hacksaw and cutting up bits of Uni-strut. The idea was based on two long pieces, each with one M12 bolt though it to engage on the lugs in the pulley, a short cross piece to tie them together and then a long diagonal piece to stop the hole thing twisting out shape under tension. On our first attempt the M12 bolts were right at the bottom end and the load was too much and the Uni-strut just bent. JOR suggested moving them up above the cross brace and widening the gap between the two long verticals to allow the extension bar through.

So, take two. JOR was holding the improvised tool and I had the 2ft long breaker bar on the nut. As we started to pull as hard as we could in opposite directions I could feel it start move! Our hearts felt light and even the sun seemed to shine a little brighter! . Suddenly I stopped...it just didn't feel right, so we took the locking tool off and looked at the extension bar which now was resembling a cork-screw!, a quick hunt through the tool boxes turned up a another 6” long ½” drive extension bar and we were back on!.

Finally after a hell of a lot of cursing the nut came off. It really was touch and go as to whether our home made locking tool would hold up, the bolts did look a bit bent by the time we had finished.
Once we had got the pulley off the rest was plain sailing. The new belt went on fine and putting the crankshaft pulley bolt back we just tightened it up until the Uni-strut started to buckle, which should be tight enough.

By the time we had finished putting everything back we were beginning to lose the light and it was about 5 o'clock by the time we were ready to start her up. I leaned through the window, put the key in the ignition, crossed my fingers and turned the key and........nothing! Rats! Connected the battery and tried again. Glow plug light lit and went out, key turned to start and she fired up on the 1st compression stroke!!!!!, together with the usual cloud of smoke and rattles and bangs

All in all, it turned out to be a very successful day. JOR's help was invaluable and I simply would not have been able to do it solo. If anyone else is considering changing thier timing belt I would strongly recommend that you get the proper tool for holding the pulley stationary and use a 2ft breaker bar with a length of scaffolding bar on top of it!.
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