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V50/SHARK/MILLTEK/POLYBUSH/REMAP = 279hp & 420trq

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Old May 10th, 2013, 10:46   #131
marct1980
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Finally caved in and have removed the vibetechnics engine mount from the car.

It was great fun for the hard stuff but it was just transferring way too many bumps and vibrations to the rest of the car. even the little bumps of different levels of tarmac caused a fairly significant thump to shock through the car.

went back to the stock one for just now and the change is huge, the gear change feels... well doesn't feel now its way too soft! thinking about going for the pumaspeed mount now as i hear it is the best compromise.

any racers out there that want a vibetechnics mount give me a shout !!
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Old May 10th, 2013, 12:47   #132
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any racers out there that want a vibetechnics mount give me a shout !!
Just FYI you may get some interest in the mount on http://www.focusstoc.com
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Old May 11th, 2013, 09:28   #133
don kalmar union
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You might be much better advised to fit the mount from the Focus RS which I believe was also fitted on the last of the smaller Volvo T5s as well.

Regards, Don.
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Old May 11th, 2013, 13:55   #134
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Even after removing the vibetechnics mount and swapping out the adjustable camber arms...

(which keep coming loose, i will have to get them set and then think about dropping some weld on them to keep them tight, kind of defeats the purpose of them!)

I am still getting a bit of a strange "thonking" (technical term!) noise from the left front of the car, i've had a look at everything i can see and it all looks to be tight and secure, when the car is on the jack i can't move the wheel / hub to replicate the noise. It only happens when at speed going over small to big bumps on the road, something sounds loose but i just can't find it! Looks like a trip to the locals to see if they can find anything, suggestions welcome at this point!!!
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Old May 11th, 2013, 14:58   #135
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the adjustable camber arms... which keep coming loose, i will have to get them set and then think about dropping some weld on them to keep them tight, kind of defeats the purpose of them!

I am still getting a bit of a strange "thonking" (technical term!) noise from the left front of the car
For the adjustable control arms then perhaps once set up some Loctite nut lock would be a little less dramatic than a weld and produce the same results with the added ability of being able to move the nut later if you need to?

For the clonk/thonk/thud/thunk/bing/bang/bong thing I'd have a look at your top mounts and also check the bolts on the strut brace if fitted. The drop links would also be on my list too.

If I didn't know you have recently had a good lot of work done then I'd say to look at the springs and especially where it just starts to coil up.

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Old May 11th, 2013, 15:40   #136
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For the adjustable control arms then perhaps once set up some Loctite nut lock would be a little less dramatic than a weld and produce the same results with the added ability of being able to move the nut later if you need to?

For the clonk/thonk/thud/thunk/bing/bang/bong thing I'd have a look at your top mounts and also check the bolts on the strut brace if fitted. The drop links would also be on my list too.

If I didn't know you have recently had a good lot of work done then I'd say to look at the springs and especially where it just starts to coil up.

strut brace is good i had it off the other day and is secure for sure, drop links seemed fine too,

top mounts and springs i think will need a bit more of a pro mech to get at as i have never taken them out before think i will send it off to the local indy in the near future and get them to strip it out and rebuild everything! hope that wont cost too much!
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Old May 11th, 2013, 18:38   #137
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Spring - Needs nothing more than a visual check with the wheel off to give better access and sight. Take when off and have a good look at spring with both eyes and fingers as some cracks are hard to detect. Pay particular attention to the area where the bottom of the spring just starts to curl upwards.

Top mounts - No need to dismantle everything, just check the nuts at the top (in engine bay) to check they are fully tight and torqued correctly, put car on axle stand so wheel can dangle (take the pressure/weight off the mount and give a good check by turning the road wheel with your hands back and forth and just generally wiggle it about to see if you can detect slackness/noise anywhere.

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Old May 15th, 2013, 15:08   #138
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quick trip to my local indy garage and they phone me right back saying its fixed!, not sure i want to admit what was loose but think its fair to say that it was my fault!!

all running fine now and no thonking to be heard!!
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Old May 15th, 2013, 15:19   #139
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What a cliff-hanger!

Come on Mark you can't leave us in suspense, what didn't you do?

You done them brakes recently so I'm guessing carrier bolts loose?

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Old May 15th, 2013, 15:30   #140
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If I had a prize to give away then you would win it ! (Detective?), not the carriers but the whole caliper had come loose!!

good job i was not in it much they reckon the bolts had just started working themselves loose but also warned me not to try DIY ever again as I am rubbish at it!!

the other good news is they only took £20 off me for the work, A bargain if you ask me, there was nothing stopping them saying it took them ages to find the problem and charging me for heaps of labour. Good guys up here!!
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