Rear bumper broken loose one side

[Stephen Edwin]

Well I've never worked on the 240 bumpers before so I'm lost. I touched a post and the right hand i.e. driver side of the rear bumper is adrift. I have still got the hockey stick.

I shall lash the bumper back in place tomorrow. But then:

1. Where the telescopic bump absorber thingy attaches to the bumper the fixings have broken away from the bumper taking a little bit of the metal of the bumper with them. The car is due for the usual under tailgate welding at the rear anyway. I'm hoping the body repair man can weld that bit of the bumper although it is alloy. If not, what will be my best way to get a replacement bumper? It's not an easy thing to be posted to me.

2. I think I'm going to need a fair dollop of clips and such like. Can In get a complete job lot of clips for both sides and be fully prepared? What clips are used in total?

3. DELETED.

Stephen



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[Jungle_Jim]

Hi Stephen

As far as I understand the ally bumper has corroded due to the galvanic corrosion of ally and steel being in contact (add water to the mix). I guess Land Rover people probably know all about it.

If the ally bumper is that bad, check the state of the tubular bracket which goes into the body.

My 240 had one very similar to yours, and not only was the ally bumper corroded, but the steel bracket was also in a very poor state and needed replacing.

When I replaced the bumper, I made plastic gaskets plus used grease around the bolts as a barrier between the ally and steel, hopefully slowing this galvanic corrosion.

John

[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by Jungle_Jim

Hi Stephen

As far as I understand the ally bumper has corroded due to the galvanic corrosion of ally and steel being in contact (add water to the mix). I guess Land Rover people probably know all about it.

If the ally bumper is that bad, check the state of the tubular bracket which goes into the body.

My 240 had one very similar to yours, and not only was the ally bumper corroded, but the steel bracket was also in a very poor state and needed replacing.

When I replaced the bumper, I made plastic gaskets plus used grease around the bolts as a barrier between the ally and steel, hopefully slowing this galvanic corrosion.

John

Thank you.

So does this mean finding a replacement bumper and steel brackets in good condition, and in the meantime lashing the existing bumper in place in an orderly manner?

Does the steel bracket involve replacing the entire plunger/pump mechanism?

Is this entirely spanner type work?

I suspect finding the replacements in good condition will not be easy?

Hey ho.

Stephen

[Clifford Pope]

I've just been out to refresh my memory with a look at my half-dismantled car.
There are 2 bolts each side holding the alloy bumper to the flanges on the telescopic things. On the alloy side the bolt heads are circular, and very thin, largely countersunk into the alloy. I presume the bolt section must be square at that point to locate it in the alloy.

In theory it might be possible to get a ring spanner or socket in behind the bumper in order to undo the nut, but that would still depend on the nut not being rusted tight, the bolt not turning in its hole, or the alloy breaking away as has already happened on yours.

If you are replacing the bumper then you might as well simply cut it free and use new bolts, but how you would remove a useable bumper intact from another car I'm not sure.
I think if you release the big bolts holding the telescopic things to the chassis sections then the whole bumper will pull out, so it would perhaps then be possible to cut off the bolts from the back leaving the bumper undamaged.

[Stephen Edwin]

This on eBay looks interesting:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLVO-240....c100290.m3507

Except there appears to be a piece missing from one shock absorber shaft.

Is that bumper and bits attached as listed and pictured a straight swap fit?

Or is that just wrong for my 1992 SE?

I have applied Plus Gas. I'll start dismantling soon. Then perhaps I'll get a better grasp of the assembly.

Any comments/advice please?

Stephen

[Clifford Pope]

That looks right. All the 80s onwards cars had the same rear bumper - I think the saloon was identical too (?).
The crucial point to check is that the telescopic things have a pronounced up-turn just after of the mounting plate. The eBay one is carefully photographed so that you can't see that - you need a side-on picture. Those on the front are straight.

The missing plate is welded on, and seems to have rusted off in the eBay one. That might be a point to consider about its general condition.
But you can swap yours on, and get them off the alloy bumper by angle-grinding the nuts so as to avoid risking breaking the alloy.

[Stephen Edwin]

Thank you Clifford.

I was concerned that plate might be broken loose rather than just a separate piece just gone missing. If I buy that I do have an angle grinder and can cut some nuts off. Although that's not a tool I have a lot of experience with so I'll think about that.

I need to check out the support brackets on my car, and ask a bit about the bend in the support bracket and about the condtion of the steel and the alloy of the entire item from the scrap yard.

Stephen

[Stephen Edwin]

P.S.

Also on my mind is:

1. On that eBay item, the what look like riveted ends of studs. Is that standard how the fixing studs are retained? And those black plastic pieces are they standard to locate the black cover on the bumper?

2. Whether it might be equally feasible to buy a discarded damaged alloy part of the bumper, cut it up and use it to fix my broken one.

Much may become clearer once I get going with a spanner to dismantle. Tomorrow is predicted as slightly warmer than today here so here's hoping.

Stephen

[Clifford Pope]

The plastic bumper has projecting lugs which pass through slots in the alloy and are secured with spring clips. The ebay one appears to have had its plastic ripped off leaving broken bits still in the alloy.

I can't recall how the steel bolts are secured in the alloy. Presumably they are a press fit - square or some section. But with a suitable washer if necessary I don't see why an ordinary bolt wouldn't work, head cut down to be slim and fit the recess.
Or you might of course get the bolts out intact. I was just thinking that the alloy is the fragile bit at that point. If the nuts are tight you could with care grind/cut off a point just clear of the thread and it should undo.

[Stephen Edwin]

Thank you Clifford. I have to proceed with caution. Avoid ripping my black part of the bumper.

And Classic Swede is looking to see what spare bumper he might have. Hopefully better than the eBay one.