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Seized Front Caliper bolt

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Old Jun 12th, 2020, 05:18   #1
creronr123
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Default Seized Front Caliper bolt

Hi when going to replace my front brake pads on my V40 2002 for the first time i found one of the brake caliper bolts is seized and rounded.

Is there a special socket you can buy to unseize the caliper bolt or any clues on how to remove this bolt.

Checked YouTube and nothing sadly
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Old Jun 12th, 2020, 09:03   #2
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It's experimental, but the only way I've ever found to work, and even then it's hit and miss, root through your sockets for Imperial, or even better, whitworth ones, preferably a 6 sided one, there should be one ever so slightly smaller than what the heads are supposed to be, (from memory they're supposed to be 12mm heads, 3/16 whitworth rings a bell) then smack it on with a large hammer, and pray it cracks undone, the shock of whacking the socket on also helps break any rusty bond, although obviously you only realistically get one chance at it, two at best, then it'll be properly wrung off.
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Old Jun 12th, 2020, 12:30   #3
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Originally Posted by creronr123 View Post
Hi when going to replace my front brake pads on my V40 2002 for the first time i found one of the brake caliper bolts is seized and rounded.

Is there a special socket you can buy to unseize the caliper bolt or any clues on how to remove this bolt.

Checked YouTube and nothing sadly

You need some single hex sockets, these grip the bolts a lot more firmly than standard sockets. I had quite a few seized and rusty bolts on my S40, these worked really well.
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Old Jun 12th, 2020, 12:52   #4
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Agree with the above but make sure you have a replacement bolt available or you will disable the car until you can get one.
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Old Jun 14th, 2020, 21:55   #5
creronr123
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Originally Posted by clarkey1984 View Post
It's experimental, but the only way I've ever found to work, and even then it's hit and miss, root through your sockets for Imperial, or even better, whitworth ones, preferably a 6 sided one, there should be one ever so slightly smaller than what the heads are supposed to be, (from memory they're supposed to be 12mm heads, 3/16 whitworth rings a bell) then smack it on with a large hammer, and pray it cracks undone, the shock of whacking the socket on also helps break any rusty bond, although obviously you only realistically get one chance at it, two at best, then it'll be properly wrung off.
Are you saying get a smaller socket and bash it on. How can you do this with the caliper still on. Not enough room to swing a hammer
Not sure what you mean by saying crack the nut
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Old Jun 15th, 2020, 11:42   #6
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Are you saying get a smaller socket and bash it on. How can you do this with the caliper still on. Not enough room to swing a hammer
Not sure what you mean by saying crack the nut
It's not easy, but with the car supported high enough on axle stands and the steering on full lock it's just about doable, and when I say crack, you know like old steel wheel wheel nuts, an audible cracking sound as it suddenly gives while undoing it, and then after that initial release then it's loose, that's what I mean.
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Last edited by clarkey1984; Jun 15th, 2020 at 13:09.
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Old Jun 20th, 2020, 21:09   #7
martin 56
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I'm having similar issues with my brakes, in my case the bleed nipples, on the front, O/S the original had a sheered bleeder, so had not been bleed out, before I got the car, and the second hand replacement, won't move either, ive tried everything, heat a large hammer, cooling, then, heating, in the end, I gave up and ordered two new ones, ive just done a pad and Disc renewal as the brakes were very poor. luckily the rears were ok the bolts came undone ok and the bleed nipples were not seized.
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