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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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Brake pads & disc replaceViews : 18001 Replies : 12Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Nov 11th, 2008, 16:56 | #1 |
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Brake pads & disc replace
Iam going to change my pads & discs on my S40 98year model. Can anyone give me some hints/advice on changing them. I have read that the small screw holding the disc on can be an arse to get out. Does this need to be put back in if I have to drill out?, as some poeple have said they never had one in theres?. I also have rear discs and have been told these are slightly different to change than the fronts?
Thanks in advance. Dave |
Nov 13th, 2008, 16:04 | #2 |
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I may be wrong, but I think that the disks are totally floating on the studs, and the screw doesn't hold the disk on (the wheel and wheelnuts do that) but the screw (if one is already in place, otherwise any screw with the correct thread) is used to force the disk OFF the hub, as it can often stick because of the pressure from the wheelnuts.
Have replaced disks and pads several times on my '98 V40, and it's not a hard job. 1. Jack up a corner 2. Remove wheel 3. Remove caliper bolts 4. Slide caliper off disk (use a bit of string or wire to tie the caliper up out of the way) 5. Slide out the pads 6. Wind out the piston 7. Install new pads (I usually smear copperslip on the rear side) 8. Use screw if necessary to push off disk, otherwise just slip it off the studs. 9. Install new disk 10. Slide caliper back over the disk 11. Replace the 2 caliper mounting bolts and torque up 12. Replace the wheel and torque up 13. Drive around carefully for a while to bed everything in There's nothing that should be a problem, if you know what you're doing I reckon it's 15min/corner max. Reckon the most difficult part is winding out the calipers so that you can fit in the new pads. Hope that helps. Simon
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1998 V40 2.0T CD Auto 165K miles and still trucking |
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Nov 13th, 2008, 16:18 | #3 |
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As above.
Also you need to take the guide pins out,give them a clean,grease them and put them back making sure the rubber bellows are not burst or perished. A very simple task. Have fun |
Nov 13th, 2008, 16:20 | #4 |
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Thanks for the info Simon. It sounds like a fairly simple job, as long as everything comes of as it should do I shouldnt have too much trouble. I have done discs and pads on other cars, but its always worth while checking before doing a different car, as there may be easier ways to do things and things to watch out for. Thanks Again Dave
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Nov 13th, 2008, 16:27 | #5 |
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Meant to say that the old discs_in the event of not 'sliding off' can be persuaded with a mallet.The cylinder can be easily pushed in by using a G clamp and a thin piece of wood(so as not to damage the cylinder).Remember to siphon off some brake fluid at the reservoir before you do this.
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Nov 13th, 2008, 16:53 | #6 |
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I agree with all the above comments. The front caliper pistons just need gently forcing back with a G cramp. the rears need screwing in under pressure. Haynes manual says you can use pliers if you hav'nt got the right tool for the job. I have used narrow nosed pliers on two previous occasions without any problem but when I came to do the job last weekend they would not screw in at all. It meant a trip to Halfords for the right tool, £20 and done in a jiffy.
'98 V40 2.0 240000mls and still purring. |
Nov 13th, 2008, 22:58 | #7 |
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After taking the car for a road test, it's a good idea to re-tighten the wheel nuts.
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Jul 28th, 2012, 15:30 | #8 |
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has anyone got any hints on removing the caliper mounting bolts, i cant get mine off!
ta russ |
Jul 28th, 2012, 16:44 | #9 |
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front or rear?
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Current car: 2002 S40 1.9D, 1992 240SE Nullius in Verba
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Jul 28th, 2012, 16:55 | #10 |
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