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intank fuel pump

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Old May 22nd, 2019, 22:25   #31
Laird Scooby
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Have you checked the cam timing?
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Old May 22nd, 2019, 22:34   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atco View Post
fuel pump is from a.t.p its a Q1 part.number30883647 if that helps.thanks
This is the right one if the engine is a B230E
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Old May 22nd, 2019, 22:39   #33
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Did you see the pic I did post at #23?
Does your engine look like this?
Does it run on starter spray/brake cleaner?
Does it have spark?

Good night, I will have to stay up very early tomorrow, Kay
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Old May 22nd, 2019, 22:43   #34
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Originally Posted by Stephen Edwin View Post
Thank you. I've not had any B200 or 230E engine but I have suspected it would be a good choice especially the 230. If I ever change the car I will consider that engine if there is a choice available for me.

I think you said there are two distributor positions. Is there any benefit to choose where the distributor is best mounted please?



.
The head mounted are prone more to fail.
The 240 will need the block mounted. No big difference otherwise
Parts for the injection side are expensive and hard to find. The CIS/K-jetronic doesn't like to get stored/ parked too long time.
I run them with two-stroke oil mixed to the fuel. 1:150 in front of long time parking especially
Good night, Kay
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Old May 22nd, 2019, 22:44   #35
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yes its a 230e.how do i check the timing to no if its correct.markings on the old belt have long gone if at all its the timing.
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Old May 22nd, 2019, 22:54   #36
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The mark on the pulley isn't precise every time. Best is to check TDC through the spark plug hole of number 1. There is a mark on the cam pulley to check the cam timing.

First: add electric power to the pump directly.
Build a bridge at the relay.
Take a battery and wire the pump directly.
Bridge fuse Nr ( 5? and 7?)(maybe 11) can't remember at thus moment. Do you have a wiring map?
If the pumps run and the engine will start we will find the problem. This engine won't need the prepump inside the fuel cell. Only when level is low. It will start and run with the main pump only.

Does your car us with a Lambda sonde?
Did you change the fuel filter?

First try to run the main pump. Three ways to do this I tried to explain. Good night, Kay
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Old May 22nd, 2019, 22:56   #37
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I've seen pumps connected the wrong way on the electric side. + and - hard to believe.
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Old May 22nd, 2019, 22:57   #38
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Quote:
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yes its a 230e.how do i check the timing to no if its correct.markings on the old belt have long gone if at all its the timing.
Although the OE Volvo belts usually have markings on them, they are for an added bit of help finding the marks on the crank pulley, timing cover pointer and the cam pulley and the pointer on the backplate behind the cam pulley.

I posted a lot of information on timing a B230FK/T recently which should be similar, some of the lower timing cover pointers are different but i'm sure we can find which one yours is.

The fact it backfired through the exhaust after being stood a while suggests the timing belt stripped as soon as you tried starting it.

Depending on exactly when yours was made, although you appear to have the Hall Effect sensor in the dizzy, you may also have the CPS on the bellhousing as a double-reference point - these weren't made for long but if you do happen to have that and there is no smimilarity between the two signals at any time then there will be no spark - no spark means no signal for the fuel pump relay, no fuel pump relay means no fuel. Not that the fuel would ignitie without a spark and certainly not if the cam timing is out anyway!

I'll try and find that other thread where i posted the information and link to it.
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Old May 22nd, 2019, 23:42   #39
atco
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i think its best if i changed the timing belt its been standing for a while so best to do that.will check for that cps again on the bell housingand can i check for spark if i take a plug out.and yes changed the fillter the same time as the pump .the nuts are a diff size on the pump so not going to get that the wrong way around
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Old May 23rd, 2019, 00:20   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atco View Post
the nuts are a diff size on the pump so not going to get that the wrong way around
He meant the electrical connections, not the mechanical connections. If the wiring is the wrong way round, it probably won't run at all, if it does, it won't do anything.

As for the timing belt, this is the thread i had in mind :

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=293900

Please read ALL of it, it might not seem relevant to your problem but you will learn a lot of what you need and how things can effect each other.

You'll notice the thread is titled "Failed MoT on emissions". One pulley was one or two teeth out, still ran and sounded ok but not quite as lively as it should have been and the emssions were higher than they should have been. This was only discovered on a hunch but then it turned out the car was exempt from the cat test on emssions anyway and passed, still waiting for the confirtmation the new (correct) belt and correct fitting has sorted the rich emissions but as your dizzy is mounted on the back of the cam, if the timing belt has stripped then the ignition timing will be out as well.
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