Brake Caliper Rebuild

[CLIVERALLY]

Splitting the caliper is no big deal despite what you read . If you can get away without doing it then fine.

I guess you have to look at the cost and given that it would be over £200 to get rebuilt calipers including postage then if you look at the caliper rebuild kits and make yer mind up. Not everyone has £200 ++ to spend

I have been a mechanic for over 40 years and an MOT tester my advice, should you wish to take it is............ if you are not confident dont even go there.

If you have a compressor and an old tyre valve you can fire the pistons out,

Be Careful if you twist the piston or the seal does not seat or the dust cover does not seat or the O rings **** up then it can be a real issue.

Big Red also rebuild .as do most motor factors

[simon roberts]

Past parts,refurb all brake components to a very high standard for a reasonable
cost.

[amazondean]

I have made pistons at work from stainless before, however, even though they don't rust, they are much softer, scratch easily and will pick up and mark if any grit or dust gets around the piston.

The standard chromed pistons are much better for the job in my opinion. I have recently stripped all four of my calipers from my 145, after several years being laid up, expecting to have to make new pistons. However when I cleaned everything with scotch brite, they cleaned up perfect with no rust or marks to the pistons.

Rather than using an air line, invest in a small hydraulic lever ram. You have far more control and using a G clamp, you can move from piston to piston, slowly working them out as far as you can before finishing off with grips to pull them out one by one.

[Ron Kwas]

Clive;

I have to agree with AD's recommendation to use hydraulics instead of shop air for caliper piston removal...in the first place the pressure available from shop air is a measly 100PSI or so...nowhere near what is often needed, but if it does force one piston out, the sudden uncontrolled release of the stored energy in the form of that compressed air, can do real damage...it's much safer and better (read more powerful and effective!) to use the huge advantage possible with hydraulics...
I've also heard a grease-gun be suggested, but that leaves a mess, rather but better yet, I prefer a master cylinder held in the shop vice, pushing brake fluid, and plumbed up to the caliper to be freed, then the MC operated with a long lever (big advantage AND good control)...best yet is to extricate the pistons while it is still on the car and plumbed up to the hydraulic system capable of hundreds of PSI if not thousands...! Remember to limit piston travel with for instance a wooden block when no pads or disc are present as the first one to move and open the system will prevent making pressure to remove the more difficult ones...

Cheers

[Austinvolvo]

I've used a grease gun on several calipers. Works very well, good control and yes, makes a little mess but if you only do this once in a while it's not a big deal. You have to use some clamps to hold the "first movers" from coming all the way out before all the pistons are free. As you point out Ron, a grease gun will put up way more pressure than an air compressor and since grease is not compressible, you dont have a safety issue with all that stored energy. I'm sure somebody has youtubed it.

dean

[CLIVERALLY]

Whilst I agree with the comments I have never had an issues with using an air line in 40+ years. I use a block of wood to fire them into..
Tried grease and that works fine ....again depends on your confidence and budget. Mind at £65 for a caliper it is hardly worth it

[amazondean]

It's worth it when I managed to blow out the pistons on all four calipers and when cleaned up were in perfect condition. Put it all back together and cost zero. Even doing the job was free because I took them to work! 😃👍

[CLIVERALLY]

Cheap calipers ....gave them a ring out of interest as i could find nothing on line other than their site....number does not exist ..in a word would not touch them with the proverbial pole