Any Advice, Part 2!

[Bugjam1999]

Originally Posted by Chris152

Quick question on the rear suspension. I've read the sequence for changing springs and shocks, all clear. But we also have to remove the bolt securing the trailing arm to the rear axle bracket in order to attach the ASB - is it best (or even possible) to do this one bolt first, then remove and replace the spring and shock (including the lower shock bolt, which is the second bolt attaching the ASB), OR do we just remove spring, shock then trailing arm to rear axle bracket and replace everything at once? The reason I ask is that if spring and shocks are still in place, it may make removal and replacement of the rear axle bracket bolt easier, as things will be more aligned?

With the shock and spring in place, you won't be able to remove the bolt holding the axle to trailing arm as it's under tensile load. You'll need to remove both before tackling the axle to trailing arm bolt.

I don't know if this has been mentioned, but I'm pretty sure that in order to drop the axle low enough to replace the springs you'll need to have both shocks removed at once - ie axle stands under the two rear jacking points and the back of the car in the air.

Cheers

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Chris152

So, in broad terms, the sequence is: Undo nut on spring; undo bottom nut then top nut on shock and remove; lower axle a bit to remove spring; remove trailing arm to axle bracket bolt; refit trailing arm to axle bracket bolt (nut inboard) with ARB attached; refit spring, lifting axle; refit shock with ARB attached; lower and tighten all nuts.

Does that look right?

Bugjam - good point, we'll fetch the lot indoors, hadn't thought to leave overnight.

Thanks both.

Pretty much!

[Bugjam1999]

Originally Posted by Chris152

So, in broad terms, the sequence is: Undo nut on spring; undo bottom nut then top nut on shock and remove; lower axle a bit to remove spring; remove trailing arm to axle bracket bolt; refit trailing arm to axle bracket bolt (nut inboard) with ARB attached; refit spring, lifting axle; refit shock with ARB attached; lower and tighten all nuts.

Does that look right?

Bugjam - good point, we'll fetch the lot indoors, hadn't thought to leave overnight.

Thanks both.

Bearing in mind my previous comment and you'll need the whole back of the car up and supported on axle stands, then:

Remove wheels

Remove spring bottom retaining brackets - I recommend you buy new ones of these, since you're likely to have to destroy your current ones removing them

Jack up axle slightly in the centre under the diff to take the tension off the shock bolts

Remove shock top and bottom bolts - hopefully the bottom bolts will come out of the spacers ok

Release the jack

Remove the springs

Jack the axle back up a bit just to get it off the floor and make working on the axle to trailing arm bolts easier

Remove the axle to trailing arm bolt, refit with a bracket for the ARB in place - I suggest you do this step one side at a time - don't fully tighten up the nut, but do it up so it's not loose and the bracket for the ARB is held in place against the side of the trailing arm

Release the jack

Fit new springs

Fit new/replace spring retainers

Jack axle up enough so that the shocks can be bolted in- the bottom bolt should be fitted from the outside facing inwards, remember to put anti-seize on the inside of the tube spacer and the ARB fitted in place on the inside of the trailing arms. The rear of the ARB will be resting on the ground at this point.

With both shocks in place the rear of the ARB can be lifted up and fitted into the brackets on the axle

Replace the wheels

Drop the car back down onto the ground

Tighten up all nuts and bolts with the car on its wheels.

Cheers

[Chris152]

Thanks Bugjam - that's really helpful, just the kind of blow-by-blow account we need. And spring retaining brackets ordered!
I notice Mike Brace does one side at a time in his thread: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=50678
Maybe depends on how functional the shocks are/ just luck? I'd feel safer one side at a time, so will try with one side and if it's no good, prop the other side, too - does that sound reasonable?

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Chris152

Thanks Bugjam - that's really helpful, just the kind of blow-by-blow account we need. And spring retaining brackets ordered!
I notice Mike Brace does one side at a time in his thread: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=50678
Maybe depends on how functional the shocks are/ just luck? I'd feel safer one side at a time, so will try with one side and if it's no good, prop the other side, too - does that sound reasonable?

If you remember Chris, i outlined the method to do one side at a time further up. Pros and cons to both methods, depends on your comfort level with the entire back end of the car off the deck really.
Both have their merits, doing both sides at the same time makes it easier to fit the ARB as part of the job, doing one side at a time means the car is slightly more stable while undoing tight bolts.

Your choice really although if it's your first time doing it, i'd suggest one side at a time and a slightly less easy fitting of the ARB, that way if you get stuck for any reason (tight/rusted bolt, weather or whatever) you only have one wheel to refit to get it back on all 4 paws.

[Bugjam1999]

I’d recommend doing one side at a time as it is more stable, but as above I don’t think the axle will drop enough with only one shock removed to allow the springs to be removed.

I could be wrong though - and if you start with one side and then find after removing the spring retaining plate and the shock then lowering the axle you can’t get the spring out, there’s nothing to stop you jacking up the other side of the car at that point. And for the avoidance of doubt, no need to bolt anything back on before jacking up the other side- so no time lost.

Cheers

[Chris152]

Thanks fellas - that's decided. Our drive is on a very slight slope, so we have to roll it to a point almost in the garage where it stops, but the wheels furthest from the garage are still on a slight incline. When it's the rear wheels, locked and in gear with chocks, I feel safe; when it's the front, less so. That said, once it's jacked up, the wheels up the slope are lower than the ones in the air, so I guess it's possibly even safer than on a level ground?

Thanks again for your patience everyone, the rear suspension swap's more of a challenge for us than what we've done so far and frankly, waiting for the weather, I've probably got too much time to think about it! Finally warming up Sunday, tho obviously that means the rain's coming too...

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Chris152

Thanks fellas - that's decided. Our drive is on a very slight slope, so we have to roll it to a point almost in the garage where it stops, but the wheels furthest from the garage are still on a slight incline. When it's the rear wheels, locked and in gear with chocks, I feel safe; when it's the front, less so. That said, once it's jacked up, the wheels up the slope are lower than the ones in the air, so I guess it's possibly even safer than on a level ground?

Thanks again for your patience everyone, the rear suspension swap's more of a challenge for us than what we've done so far and frankly, waiting for the weather, I've probably got too much time to think about it! Finally warming up Sunday, tho obviously that means the rain's coming too...

Not having seen your drive Chris i don't know if this is possible but if you were to reverse towards the garage with the garage door open, you could potentially get the back end in the garage (or at least under the up & over door) and keep yourselves dry that way. A tarp stretched over the door to create a further canopy with a bit of ingenuity

[Chris152]

Yes - when we did the timing belt, we drove it in so the bonnet was right inside - works fine when working from the front, but no real space to the sides. That'll work for the headlights, which we may be able to get on with tomorrow (balmy 10 degrees possible!). To the side of the garage door is the front door, which I built a large canopy for, comes out a couple of metres, and it's possible to extend that right across the front of the garage. So that'd give us another 2m of cover, which I think I may well do soon. Obviously it wouldn't protect from wind-blown rain, but it'd be a real improvement. Cars, eh? We already had to widen the drive to fit his car on next to my van, now some building work! ha.

[Chris152]

Definitely not the day for working on it, looking good tho!