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V70 2008 front brake pad/caliper types

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Old Mar 20th, 2019, 18:17   #11
green van man
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To date I always completely remove the caliper from the caliper bracket, allowing me to thoroughly clean the caliper and descale the none swept areas of the disc, inner and outer faces. Measure disc at same time. Only need to remove caliper bracket if disc removal is required.
However, still considering about doing the rears on daughter’s 2010 XC70 with electric parking brake (EPB) as I’ve no previous experience of these. Looks soooo easy on YouTube.
9v pp9 battery, 2 fly leads with normal spade connectors crimped to one end. Remove the connector fit the fly leads to the motor terminals , bear off 6mm at the end of the fly leads and hold them to the pp9 battery, if motor runs the wrong way reverse the battery conections. Wind the motor back fully and then bar the piston back into the caliper. Dismantle caliper to change pads, change pads, reconect the connector, turn ignition on and engage EPB.

Some will tell you to open the bleed nipple when pushing the piston back, I have never found the need and certainly never flipped the master cylinder rubbers. Thinking on this, if it were a possibility then why does the rubber not flip when the brake peddle is pressed. That it does not indicates to me it will not. Just make sure there is room in the fluid resevour for the displaced fluid.

The official manual method is to remove the motors, they are held by 2 small Torx set screws, often siezed and the Torx head strips when you try to remove them.

I have VIDA dice and there is a program in there to back the EPB off, I failed to make it work and wanted the job done so reverted to the pp9 battery method.

Paul.
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Old Mar 20th, 2019, 19:02   #12
Ian21401
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Thanks Paul. That sounds less bother than removing the motor etc. which is the method I have viewed. Just to be sure, that is done before removing anything else ?
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Old Mar 20th, 2019, 21:04   #13
Paul Bearer
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Thank you fro the extra on the rear brakes

I shall keep that noted for when its needed

Cheers
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Old Mar 21st, 2019, 07:44   #14
green van man
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Thanks Paul. That sounds less bother than removing the motor etc. which is the method I have viewed. Just to be sure, that is done before removing anything else ?
Yes, first job after removing the wheel. If you cannot back the motor off you are not changing the pads as you cannot retract the piston.

Paul.
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Old Mar 21st, 2019, 09:04   #15
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Removing the motor, if you want to go that route, is easier after loosening the caliper. Otherwise the screws are difficult to access.
I always remove the motor, each time I maintain the brakes. And that I do each time I switch between summer and winter tires. Thus I never have any problem getting the screws out. Grease is your friend. Controlling it electrically sounds easy, but my experience is that these plastic connectors tend to get brittle over time. I prefer handling the motor, in spite of being in the electrical profession myself...

Rotating the little jack in there, the one the motor otherwise rotates, is best done with an XZN 8 key. But everything that fits will turn the jack, as it rotates freely.
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Old Mar 21st, 2019, 11:44   #16
tonys1966
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Default front brakes/rear brakes

i just did the front brakes on my ex police model with the huge brakes

i removed the caliper carrier bolts,pinged out the pads and the sliding carrier
cleaned it all up and re-assembled

worth noting the police[last ones to do my brakes] broke off the metal spring clip at the rear of the outer pad to make it easier to fit-its not going anywhere anyway in reality so i can see why they did it
I bought pattern xc90 pads for just over £8 off the web-from germany-as the car is effectively fitted with xc90 front brakes....

rears i used delphi software for the rears to retract the motors,cleaned up the brakes,pushed back pistons with a normal caliper spreader,regreased the slides and rebuilt with new bolts-pads about £13
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Old Mar 21st, 2019, 20:18   #17
green van man
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Originally Posted by apersson850 View Post
Removing the motor, if you want to go that route, is easier after loosening the caliper. Otherwise the screws are difficult to access.
I always remove the motor, each time I maintain the brakes. And that I do each time I switch between summer and winter tires. Thus I never have any problem getting the screws out. Grease is your friend. Controlling it electrically sounds easy, but my experience is that these plastic connectors tend to get brittle over time. I prefer handling the motor, in spite of being in the electrical profession myself...

Rotating the little jack in there, the one the motor otherwise rotates, is best done with an XZN 8 key. But everything that fits will turn the jack, as it rotates freely.
Unfortunatly previous owner of my car never removed the motors and hence I found out about the screws siezing and the heads stripping. At some point I shall have to drill them out and renew the screws, from that point on they will be removed and lubricated regularly which will be easy as they will be rebuilt with grease from the start.

While I only do it when nessesary I have not found a problem removing the connector, useing apropiate care of course, on my 10 year old car.
I appreciate the danger of the plastic becoming brittle over time but would rather it break when at home and the tools are out than leave me stranded at the road side.

Paul.
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Old Mar 21st, 2019, 23:25   #18
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So when daughter is able leave the car with me for long enough I’ll first try to remove the motors. Dealer alleged that all brake pads had been renewed prior to purchase two years ago but suspect they used the relevant kit to wind back the motors. At service in February ( 26,000 miles later ) there was a comment that rear brake pads would need renewing soon.
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Old Mar 21st, 2019, 23:35   #19
tonys1966
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Originally Posted by Ian21401 View Post
So when daughter is able leave the car with me for long enough I’ll first try to remove the motors. Dealer alleged that all brake pads had been renewed prior to purchase two years ago but suspect they used the relevant kit to wind back the motors. At service in February ( 26,000 miles later ) there was a comment that rear brake pads would need renewing soon.
rather than remove motors would it not be easier borrowing a pc/snap on solus etc,or obtaining delphi...
failing that i would wind back the motor with a battery connected.

if you bust the motor casing etc it would be fairly costly to rectify
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Old Mar 21st, 2019, 23:49   #20
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.

I have VIDA dice and there is a program in there to back the EPB off, I failed to make it work and wanted the job done so reverted to the pp9 battery method.

Paul.
What was the issue with VIDA?? I ask because when I changed my rear pads I "had to use" vida because I did not understand how the electrical connectors came off of the motors.

Fortunately for me the programme to withdraw the pads worked.

I have found as clever and wonderful as dice is, its only as good as the bloke pushing the keys on the keyboard, and I ALWAYS feel intrepidation and a great sense of unease when ever I plug in the OBI ONE into the car socket.

To me its very much Voodoo, Black Magic and Witchcraft.

Cheers

Bob
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