Guide: replacing PCV/ oil seperator system

[phil_r]

Ah, this seems to happened to a few bits I've uploaded. I've put a copy on dropbox https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/80403716/pcv.pdf

Good luck!

[pierremcalpine]

a pretty basic question I'm sure...when it is suggested to drain 1L of coolant is it simply a matter of syphoning 1L out from the reservoir? Would the hose that needs to be removed then be more or less drained of coolant? Trying to determine how much prep I should account for to collect spilled coolant when hose is removed.

Attempting job tomorrow - will report back.

[960kg]

I don`t intend to disagree with this excellent How To..... but i have just done mine on the T5 which is 99% the same....just one extra pot in the middle.

First of all invest in one of these as they are a must , Halfords in the UK do them but source out your own place for them they are dirt cheap and have a very strong magnet for putting the bolt in the hole when dismantling and assembling the manifold. It stops the fiddling and extra dismantling to enable the bolts to be taken out without dropping in the depths of the block and also when putting the bolts back in.

Because you have one of these it will save you dismantling the Fuel rail with injectors and also the coolant hose need not be taken off.

[phil_r]

agreed the magnetic tools which you can extend are great, I have a version with out the light though. Also great for finding bolts, especially in a flooded garage pit... should learn not to drop them in the first place

960kg..... Never even thought of that, I can't remember exactly why I did that but after reading a write up of someone dismantling the injectors on a 850/ V70 got the bits for it as well. Would save a lot of money as the O rings are one of the most expensive bits!

Regards the coolant, just take out 1 litre from the bottom of the radiator (small plastic screw), take a bit more than a litre if you want. Then when you have finished the full job poor it back in the reservoir.


Phil

[pierremcalpine]

Well, I almost finished the pcv replacement but I'm having a very tough time getting fuel rail back on. The new o-rings have fresh oil on them and I can see them compress when I push but I just can't get them to go in all the way!!! I'm thinking it might have something to do with me doing it at 9pm when it's about 12deg out (rings are probably a bit stiff due to cold). Going to try tomorrow at high noon but anyone got any other tips? I'm kind of stumped here. Putting all my weight against the things and beign careful not to wiggle. There's no where that I can really grab onto to get some more strength into the push...

[960kg]

You shouln`t use oil as it will damage the seals, brake fluid oil maybe but it is always suggest Vaseline or a silicon grease, as the rings can move as they compress.

I would take them all right out and start again both ends.

I always use new when replacing as the old ones do expand when not in place and after all they will of gotten harder with all the heat from the engine over time.

You should wiggle gently!

[phil_r]

I don't recall having problems getting the injectors back in, new o ring on and went it with very little force. Was a few years back and my memory isn't great but would of remembered any problems and sadly I have no photos of that stage.

Hope you get it sorted!

[pierremcalpine]

Well, after heaving and pushing for about an hour I gave up, removed the new "O" rings and put the old ones back on. They were in good shape and definitely not as thick as the new ones...the new O rings were out of an IPD package...maybe they were not OEM.

Car started and no leakage visible from underside...so far so good. Will take it for a good long spin tomorrow to verify.

I did have one small bracket left over which I had marked as being related to step 4. I took pics along the way but this bugger doesn't feature in any. Do any of you recognize this single-bolt mounted bracket?

[pierremcalpine]

Thanks for that advice. I'll keep a close eye on the injectors for the next while. If I notice any issues (or poor performance) I'll pick up some volvo OEM rings and attempt to pop them in.

Originally Posted by 960kg

You shouln`t use oil as it will damage the seals, brake fluid oil maybe but it is always suggest Vaseline or a silicon grease, as the rings can move as they compress.

I would take them all right out and start again both ends.

I always use new when replacing as the old ones do expand when not in place and after all they will of gotten harder with all the heat from the engine over time.

You should wiggle gently!

[pierremcalpine]

Some notes in closing for those looking to do this job?

1) great write-up and pics by Phil_r. As someone doing this kind of engine work for first time, it would have been challenging without the pics and write-up.

2) Volvo recommends using new bolts for re-attaching manifold. If I were doing this again, I'd spend the couple of extra dollars on these as some of the bolts are tough to get back in straight.

3) Take a picture of each item you remove (I had one bracket left over that was not explicitely covered in any instructions...doesn't look critical but I am losing a bit of sleep over it).

4) Get yourself a large piece of cardboard and tape it to drive. As each part is taken off use a permanent pen to circle it on drive and note # of screws. Label the steps.

5) As per previous post - make sure you have a nut/bolt retriever and for god's sake don't loose the 10mm socket like I did - it's a popular size on this job! In fact, get yourself an EXTRA 10mm socket in both 3/8 and 1/4 and return them to store afterwards if you don't end up needing.

6) Phil-r advised to make sure you have a 1/4 socket set too. This is a must. Also make sure you have the swivel socket which allows you to approach screw at an angle. I only had one in the 3/8 version and I paid for that.

7) As indicated in guide, the bottom bolt for the oil trap is a b*()* to locate. I gave up and just ripped the oil trap off after having remove the top right side bolt. When I put the oil trap back in, I placed the 1/4" socket in first with an extension are plus wratchet THEN proceeded to position the oil trap on. Worked like a charm.

8) The leftmost manifold bolt under the thermostat can be accessed by using multiple extensions and fitting these between the two vacuum hoses to the left of the manifold as you face it from the front. Don't try getting at it at an angle - I wasted some time on that.

9) Make sure you know what you purchased in the PCV kit (yes, sounds elementary, I know). The longest replacement hose with the various connectors at each end has one end with a metal circular connector. this is meant to screw into the RHS of the engine using a larger bolt (17mm I think) and two copper washers. When I took mine appart I looked at these and cursed thinking that I did not have replacements. I was in a rush and wanted to finish off the job so I re-used the two copper washers (they were in ok shape but still). Later on in the day as I was looking for some clamps I came across two brand new aluminum washers with little rubber fittings that were obviously meant as replacements. Niiiice.

10) Be careful putting jubilee clip back on the hose connecting to throttle body - MAKE SURE THAT JUBILLEE CLIP-END WILL NOT INTERFERE WITH MOTION OF THROTTLE THROUGHOUT FULL RANGE OF MOTION.

11) consider heading to your local dealer to make sure there are not other codes appearing. I had a faulty rpm (speed) sensor that needed replacement...the placement of that part suggests a very difficult job any other time.

12) Do take battery out - it does leave some nice working space as suggested.

13) Do make sure you have the front of the vehicle up on ramps as suggested. The more access the better...especially as the day gets longer.

14) Get OEM O-rings for injectors. Putting the ones in the kit back in almost had me losing my mind (I gave up eventually).

15) Get some "stuby" ratchets like these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eig...het-98668.html. Many of the fasteners are not on all that tight but having the elbow room helps.

16) Figure out how to drain 1L of coolant properly BEFORE starting the job. I let the stuff come out as I took the hoses off...not the end of the world but not very professional, I'll admit.