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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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940 m46 to m90 conversionViews : 2194 Replies : 51Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jun 2nd, 2020, 22:04 | #21 |
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Well the overdrive isn’t working on the m46, and the clutch bite point is jolly high too...
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Jun 2nd, 2020, 22:44 | #22 |
Trader Volvo in my veins
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sounds like gearbox off anyway. It not a huge amount extra to do the swap.
Get the M90 off the donor car first. My tip with the M90 is to remove the gear linkages and then drop the box The M46 you only need to remove the gearlever |
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Jun 2nd, 2020, 22:44 | #23 |
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Have you checked the fuse and the oil level? Also the interlock switch and main on/off switch. The clutch might need renewal if it's high mileage but from what i understand, it's substantially cheaper for a clutch on an M46/47 than it is for the M90 clutch, even with the mods you're apparently planning if you go down the M90 route.
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Jun 3rd, 2020, 08:32 | #24 |
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I have tried removing the relay and bridging 15 and 87 but nothing happens. Also checked the switch at the lever for continuity when pressed and it works fine, although can’t seem to measure a voltage to the solenoid with the car running. I couldn’t get a continuity bleep between the solenoid terminals either, or get any “clonk” from it when I ran a 12v feed directly from the battery to the solenoid positive terminal. The cars been sat for 5 years by the way...
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Jun 3rd, 2020, 08:34 | #25 |
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Any other simple checks I can do to ascertain if if it’s solenoid, relay, wiring?
No I’ve not checked the fuse, which is it? Is it shared with anything else? I couldn’t find it in the fuse box chart |
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Jun 3rd, 2020, 08:56 | #26 |
Go redblock or go home
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If you decide to keep the m46 and fix it then I have an m46 in the for sale section, I doubt it will sell so if it is any use to you you can have it and canabilise bits off it. I'm heading over your way 14th June so if you wanted it and Dave is happy to have a gearbox at his then maybe you could collect it from his place in Lakenheath?
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Jun 3rd, 2020, 11:25 | #27 | ||
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Quote:
If you get a test lamp and wire it across the solenoid terminals with long enough leads so you can view the lamp from the drivers seat, take it for a test drive and hit the overdrive button. If the lamp lights you know the electrics are good but from the wiring diagram, it appears that you have to be above a certain speed to engage the overdrive. If the lamp lights, i would suggest removing the solenoid, cleaning the plunger so it moves in and out easily, cleaning the terminals on the solenoid with a small rotary wire brush and then bench test it using a battery to provide the power, +12V to the main terminal, 0V to the solenoid body or earth terminal. If it's simply a matter of dirty terminals you should have it working by now. Refit (and as you've already tested the electrics above) the overdrive should work. Also check the oil level in the gearbox and top (or maybe even change) the oil as needed. Quote:
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Jun 3rd, 2020, 11:27 | #28 | |
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Quote:
As for the fuse, I have had a quick look at wiring diagrams and am I correct in saying its fuse 12, which is also the reverse light fuse? As I understand it, with the ignition on I need to check for 12v to 15 terminal, and if ok there then 12v to the hot side of the switch? |
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Jun 3rd, 2020, 11:27 | #29 |
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Oopps double post, sorry
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