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Camshaft Timing Belt Replacement Tips, Thoughts

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Old Dec 15th, 2008, 22:38   #1
cumbrianmale
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Default Camshaft Timing Belt Replacement Tips, Thoughts

Article submitted by forum member jmclay

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Clay
Camshaft Timing Belt Replacement Tips, Thoughts

The Bently book and articles by others do a good job describing the major steps and overall order execution. This post covers other, ancillary ideas, tips, techniques that I found useful and cost effective.

• Seal pullers I made:





Upper left one for cam/intermediate shaft removal. Blunt the end of the pick so it won’t gouge you or the shaft. Upper right one for crank seal removal, used grinding disk and wheel to shape screwdriver end configuration you see.

Use another screwdriver against the ViseGrips and crank shoulders to lever the puller straight out from seal carrier. Round sharp edges from the puller and the screwdriver used as the lever, so they won’t gouge anything. Works great.

• Seal presses that use the relevant indigenous bolts can be made from

1. Camshaft/intermediate shaft seal: 1-1/4 PVC 40 reducing bushing. File the ID a little (8 or 10” round or half round bastard works well) so it fits over the
shaft end. Cut the other end (with the internal ridge) off so the finished piece
is 7/8” long, check/adjust so cut is square, by standing factory end on table,
resting large washer across the cut end and adjusting with file until the washer is parallel to table. Use a large washer and the shaft bolt to screw-press the seal home. I used the old seal for cushioning, for the final push home. You can loosen, rotate the press, and tighten it a little, to adjust for slight seal seating asymmetries.







2. Crankshaft seal: 2”PVC40 coupler, cut to 2” long, OD filed/tapered a little to fit inside the seal carrier boss. I used 3x3x1/4” thick flat steel stock, drilled for the crank bolt, to power the press. This part can work for the
cam/intermediate shafts with a suitable washer to bridge the large bolt hole.



Lower photos: You can see the OD chamfering I gave the PVC.

• Use an allen key or nail as a pointer to help align the intermediate shaft marks. It’s not obvious in the photo but if you nestle the allen key in the pully groove that has the timing mark, you can easily align the pully with the mark on the plastic backing plate. Here I’m tilting it outwards a little, to check against the timing mark. It’s very easy and works like a charm.



• Clothes pins make timing belt installation easy. I loop the belt around the crank pully, then around the intermediate shaft, get those properly aligned and then clothespin the belt to the intermediate shaft. That makes getting it around the cam pully a snap, then slide the belt over the tensioner; I think I had the belt looped around the tensioner stud to give more slack for installation over the cam pully. This is really easy if you approach it correctly.



• Use six point sockets instead of 12 point, to avoid heartache and rounding.

• The crankshaft pully holder makes an otherwise miserable job, trivial. Tighten the tensioner nut on the holder so the stud doesn’t bend when torquing the crank pully.

• Get a 3’ or 4’ cheater bar. Don’t wait.

• Replacement fasteners to absolutely have on hand: Thermostat cover and water pump pully nuts & studs, water pump casting body fastners if it’s being changed.

• Additional fasteners that might save your day if someone overtightened/buggered them: Camshaft and intermediate shaft pully bolts, cam belt tensioner nut, alternator/compressor nuts.

• Consider replacing the water pump, thermostat and hoses depending on their age/mileage. A spare set of water pump rubber seals is cheap insurance against damaging the ones included with the pump, if you haven’t done the job before. Remember to lever the pump up and into place, to compress the upper rubber seal or it absolutely will leak. A dash of correct technique will save much heartache (see other articles for more detail on the procedure).

• Replace the three front engine seals. With the right tools (homemade or otherwise) and careful work, this is a piece of cake.

• Have some 1000 & 2000 grit wet-or-dry abrasive paper on hand to repair
nicks left by others. Press the seal a little beyond the damaged area. I think the nick cleanup is more about preventing seal damage during installation, than restoring the sealing surface, unless the damage is miniscule/microscopic. Use a vacuum to help remove abrasive
particles. Follow with careful cleaning with clean, oiled rags; use a clean rag surface for each swipe.

• I wish I’d ordered new upper and lower cam belt covers (and fasteners). Mine were a little damaged from poor installation in the past and one fastener was absent.

• Remember that the water pump has five bolts plus a sixth nut/bolt for the heater pipe. I missed that and for a while couldn’t figure out why the pump refused to move forward and off the block.

• Use the old timing belt, fully installed and tensioned with crank pully lightly bolted, crank holder in place and secured to tensioner stud, to secure the cam & intermediate shafts for pully torquing after seal change.

• Replace the tensioner bearing at specified intervals (every other belt change?). Test fit it without the belt to make sure it seats against the head properly.

• I used a vise to compress the tensioner spring over the shaft, so I could put a nail into the hole to keep the assembly together/compressed for installation on the head. Large “QuickGrips, bar clamps or ChannelLocs could do the same thing but however you approach this job, WEAR INDUSTRIAL EYE/FACE PROTECTION. Seriously. The procedure isn’t stable and if the spring flys it could change your life.

• Check that the seal carrier bolts are appropriately snug, while in the neighborhood.

• As I went through this drill I found evidence of lousy work by a previous mechanic: Camshaft pully bolt WAY over torqued (3’ cheater bar to remove). I was sure it was going to break but somehow it didn’t. Intermediate shaft pully bolt under torqued. The hex heads of both bolts were more rounded than I think was professional – they should have been replaced previously.

• Thermostat housing nuts should have not been reused previously. I spent 2
hours removing one, finally with a Dremel tool and a thin cut-off disk to
amputate the nut/stud assy.

• Badly gouged camshaft seal surface, but fortunately it was near the shaft end so I was able to clean it up somewhat and mount the seal deep enough to seat on a fresh surface. Once I completed the homemade tools (make them in advance) and discovered the clothes pin and allen key aids, neither the belt nor the seals themselves were difficult at all; quite easy really. It’s the other stuff than can ruin your day: Poor work by others including
buggered and corroded fasteners, excessively tightened bolts, nicked shaft
sealing surfaces as well as lack of replacement fasteners and spare seals/gaskets in case you damage any, are circumstances that are cheap and easy to plan against.

John Clay
2008
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