Drivers Information Module (DIM) diy repair

[Kai Robinson]

Hah! I thought it might be - It's a microcontroller based on the Motorola 680x series CPU - as found in the Dragon 32/64 home computer

There's two EEPROM's on board - one of which is flashable, total size 128kb.

Here's the pinout:



Has an internal clock generator. That's the only difference it has compared to the other models in its series. There's no ability to 'protect' the contents of the flash memory - it can be read and written to by standard hardware.

'Fixed' data such as the odometer/vin are held in a 2KB EEPROM that can also be altered with standard hardware, it's just a little harder to erase/reprogram (not too much).

If i can find the pinout for the dash connector, it should be possible to connect it to one of these:

http://www.pemicro.com/products/prod...?product_id=33

In which case altering the contents of the EEPROM's would be a doddle

[Gazzza]

oh my the Dragon 32 . . still got mine in the loft . . so this looks interesting so now what we going do with it . .
if I see Cuthbert in the jungle on a dash ill be gob smacked LOL

[joe1908]

hi keith - thanks for your post its good to know that its fixable. For some reason your pictures have disappeared and I would like to take a look at them if possible. good you rtepost or email them to me please.

Joe

[Gazzza]

GUYS come on read the post the pictures are here . . read post 175

[spokoluzik]

Originally Posted by Kai Robinson

Hah! I thought it might be - It's a microcontroller based on the Motorola 680x series CPU - as found in the Dragon 32/64 home computer

There's two EEPROM's on board - one of which is flashable, total size 128kb.

Here's the pinout:



Has an internal clock generator. That's the only difference it has compared to the other models in its series. There's no ability to 'protect' the contents of the flash memory - it can be read and written to by standard hardware.

'Fixed' data such as the odometer/vin are held in a 2KB EEPROM that can also be altered with standard hardware, it's just a little harder to erase/reprogram (not too much).

If i can find the pinout for the dash connector, it should be possible to connect it to one of these:

http://www.pemicro.com/products/prod...?product_id=33

In which case altering the contents of the EEPROM's would be a doddle

You can read that with car prog xprog upa prog and many more at least with above you have diagrams for connection. By the way why do you want to read this processor? There is nothing you can change unless you know how to edit binary language do check sums etc...

[Gazzza]

Well mine has been on and off a few times and gave it to a mate
( electronics bod with MOD )
So re did solder on the chip and worked well for around 2 weeks and then it did the rounds again by that I mean

it's on . . its off....it's on . . its off. . you all get the idea well my fault is JUST the DIM it self



Well you get the idea so now its off . . so awaiting a full swop from

spokoluzik

[Gazzza]

I went for the £200 option which if you cant wait 3 days then go the £200 option. .
which is have Lucas send one out to you by sending him your Reg and VIN. . fit it and send yours back and when he gets it he refunds you £140 . . and mine is in and working a treat as you can see here

Here is my original and disconnect battery wait 20 minutes



Fit in the one from Lucas connect battery and......



There you go up and running Great Job Lucas well worth doing (ps also got 50 miles less on clock LOL )

[dingalls97]

Originally Posted by keithC70

Recently, thanks to Budulan, I've managed to repair my faulty DIM from my '03 S80 D5 SE Auto, and took photos whilst I had it apart. I had the SRS warning, occasional loss of green indicator arrows, and jittering un-readable dim display.

I firstly disconnected the battery and left for a good while before starting.

To remove the dim on my car you firstly remove three screws from beneath the steering wheel housing and then carefully loosen the upper half. There are then two screws in the upper face of the dim surround. The two surrounds are connected and lift out together.

There are then four screws holding the dim in place and one multiplug to remove once it's out.

185 shows the rear face of the dim on which I've marked the 7 scews to remove with a black blob. You can then lift off the white plastic back.

You can see a further 8 screws each with a white marker square on the pcb. The pcb now lifts off as in 189, and turned over in 190. The chip with bad contacts is the one on the right with the blue varnish removed. I used acetone and cotton buds along each edge and on top of the chip to remove all the varnish.

198 shows the chip cleaned. I then simply worked my way along each side with a fine pointed soldering iron to re-set the joints. The first time I did it, I only did one side nearest the centre of the pcb and it cured some of the faults but not all.

The second time I did all four sides much more systematically so that I know every joint was re-made. I used liquid flux and repeatedly tinned the tip to maintain good contact and to keep the tip clean. This is very difficult to do as you need a powerful magnifying glass to see and a steady hand on the iron.

I then used self adhesive heat sinks as on 203 just in case overheating was the cause.

After 200 miles it's all working correctly.

I'm happy to help anyone with their dim - give me a ring on 01792 545880.

Do you still have the pics available? I can't seem to view through your post.

[Gazzza]

Im fed up of telling people this but try this

In this very section there IS PICTURES . . . . ..

JUST TAKE YOUR TIME . . . read all the posts and you will SEE the pictures
there posted else wherein the TOPIC

[SteveWS60]

I used a company called revtronic which I can't recommend highly enough.

Posted the DIM to them on Tuesday afternoon and received the fixed unit back on Friday morning. One years warranty and all for £80. Working perfectly now.

If not brave enough to DIY this is a good option and not too expensive.