Problems Bleeding B230 FT

Steve Curtis · Nov 17th, 2010, 12:49

Hi all.

I Decided to change some bits and peaces on My new 940.

I have changed all the water hoses and radiator including the small hoses that go to and from the oil cooler.

I also choose to replace the little valve that sits behind the head and makes up the hose that runs from the top of the head to the heater matrix. (not quite sure what it does but I have previously had a bad exsperience when one failed on me.

After changing all these peaces I now find that I am struggling to bleed the system.

I only managed to get about two litres of anti freezze and two litres of water in the system. I am also getting no heat what so ever in the cabin even though the temperture gauge has got so high I decided to switch the car off and let it cool down.

I realise there is probably quite alot of air in the system and I have checked the direction of flow of that heater valve thing. After an inicial gurgle and drop in water level in the header tank I am getting no bubbles.

Any suggestions?

940_Turbo · Nov 17th, 2010, 13:06

Check the small diameter hose from the top of the rad to the expansion bottle is clear. The nipple in the rad gets blocked. Without that connection the system won't fill.

Oilydad · Nov 17th, 2010, 13:21

Best advice I can give anyone bleeding the air from a cooling system is to get the front of the car as high as possible.
I drive mine up on to my ramps to do it.

It's a system that I was taught many moons ago, by a very good mechanic, and I've never had a problem doing it since.

Obviously make sure that the heater control inside the car is set to high, and for what they cost, I'd replace the thermostat too.

karlos_uk · Nov 17th, 2010, 14:57

technically speaking its the header tank that needs to be higher than the rest of the system.

if you are struggling, run the car and fill it. squeeze the top radiator hose on the passenger side until the bubbles stop and if you are feeling brave blow with your mouth in the header tank making a seal with your lips with engine cold and not running. then remove head from area quickly or get splashed / taste coolant.

ive done this now i think 8 times in the past year and it works every time. just ensure the cabin temp switch is set to hot

Steve Curtis · Nov 18th, 2010, 18:13

Phew!!!

I went out to it this morning (chuffing bright and early) and the water level had dropped out of sight. I managed to get a couple more litres of coolant in and it bleed up fairly quickly.

Question though. When should I get water from the return pipe of the top of the rad. All the time, when the fan kicks in, ???

It didn't seem to be comming through there at all :-(

Drove the car about 25 miles today. Gave it the beans and let it run and get hot for ages. No problems. Still a bit concerned about not getting water from the little return pipe though.

Any ideas???

TonyS9 · Nov 18th, 2010, 19:53

I think you should get water from the (return) bleed pipe when the engine is warm and running. I often use it to lower the water level if I overfill it or to allow more anti-freeze.

I had a problem with the expansion tank, the return input was blocked on a badly looked after car.

Nov 17th, 2010, 12:49	#1
Steve Curtis super cruising 240 Last Online: Jul 3rd, 2018 21:35 Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Swindon	Problems Bleeding B230 FT Hi all. I Decided to change some bits and peaces on My new 940. I have changed all the water hoses and radiator including the small hoses that go to and from the oil cooler. I also choose to replace the little valve that sits behind the head and makes up the hose that runs from the top of the head to the heater matrix. (not quite sure what it does but I have previously had a bad exsperience when one failed on me. After changing all these peaces I now find that I am struggling to bleed the system. I only managed to get about two litres of anti freezze and two litres of water in the system. I am also getting no heat what so ever in the cabin even though the temperture gauge has got so high I decided to switch the car off and let it cool down. I realise there is probably quite alot of air in the system and I have checked the direction of flow of that heater valve thing. After an inicial gurgle and drop in water level in the header tank I am getting no bubbles. Any suggestions?

Nov 17th, 2010, 13:21	#3
Oilydad Premier Member Last Online: Mar 21st, 2016 21:21 Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Exeter Devon	Best advice I can give anyone bleeding the air from a cooling system is to get the front of the car as high as possible. I drive mine up on to my ramps to do it. It's a system that I was taught many moons ago, by a very good mechanic, and I've never had a problem doing it since. Obviously make sure that the heater control inside the car is set to high, and for what they cost, I'd replace the thermostat too. __________________ Are We Nearly There Yet! No longer a VOLVO owner, not by choice, but 'cause they don't make proper Volvos any more!

Nov 17th, 2010, 13:06	#2
940_Turbo . Last Online: Jul 14th, 2013 14:28 Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: MK	Check the small diameter hose from the top of the rad to the expansion bottle is clear. The nipple in the rad gets blocked. Without that connection the system won't fill.

Nov 17th, 2010, 14:57	#4
karlos_uk Master Member Last Online: Jul 13th, 2019 10:01 Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Derby	technically speaking its the header tank that needs to be higher than the rest of the system. if you are struggling, run the car and fill it. squeeze the top radiator hose on the passenger side until the bubbles stop and if you are feeling brave blow with your mouth in the header tank making a seal with your lips with engine cold and not running. then remove head from area quickly or get splashed / taste coolant. ive done this now i think 8 times in the past year and it works every time. just ensure the cabin temp switch is set to hot

Nov 18th, 2010, 18:13	#5
Steve Curtis super cruising 240 Last Online: Jul 3rd, 2018 21:35 Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Swindon	Phew!!! I went out to it this morning (chuffing bright and early) and the water level had dropped out of sight. I managed to get a couple more litres of coolant in and it bleed up fairly quickly. Question though. When should I get water from the return pipe of the top of the rad. All the time, when the fan kicks in, ??? It didn't seem to be comming through there at all :-( Drove the car about 25 miles today. Gave it the beans and let it run and get hot for ages. No problems. Still a bit concerned about not getting water from the little return pipe though. Any ideas???

Nov 18th, 2010, 19:53	#6
TonyS9 Premier Member Last Online: Apr 9th, 2024 21:44 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Holywood	I think you should get water from the (return) bleed pipe when the engine is warm and running. I often use it to lower the water level if I overfill it or to allow more anti-freeze. I had a problem with the expansion tank, the return input was blocked on a badly looked after car.

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