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Rolling Road Results + Re-map?

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Old Mar 26th, 2009, 13:09   #1
Trem
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Default Rolling Road Results + Re-map?

Just got back from having my 2003 S60 T5 rolling road tested.

Its running at 242bhp and is also running lean "dangerously lean" the guy said. I am in the process of getting a new fuel filter, I was before today so hopefully thats the problem. If not then fuel pump.

First question, how hard is the fuel pump to change and is there any diagrams on how to do it anywhere?

Second question is if the above fixes don't work would a re-map deal with the car running lean?

Thanks in advance.

Edit - to add to the above, when I first had my car it ran crap in the morning....actually it was lumpy most of the day. I had my ETM cleaned out and the new software loaded on which improved the running somewhat when the car was warm but its still running a bit cack when cold, and there is a hesitation when changing gear, split second dip and then a little kick. So hopefully fixing the lean running will also fix this.

Last edited by Trem; Mar 26th, 2009 at 13:34.
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Old Mar 26th, 2009, 13:39   #2
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Originally Posted by Trem View Post
Its running at 242bhp
Thats quite a good result as its only lost 8 horses over 6 years, I thought they lost more as they got older. Is this reflective of all or have you got an exceptionally good one
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Old Mar 26th, 2009, 13:40   #3
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A suitably equipped establishment should be able to adjust/remap your A/F mixture - and that's typically also done (I believe) via the various PPC remaps (BSR/Rica etc).

Remapping will not however fix anything physically 'at fault'. What mileage are you getting out of a tank currently? I'm sure other T5 owners could give you a benchmark figure...
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Old Mar 26th, 2009, 13:42   #4
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Originally Posted by rick250561 View Post
Thats quite a good result as its only lost 8 horses over 6 years, I thought they lost more as they got older. Is this reflective of all or have you got an exceptionally good one
Generally speaking the T5 engine doesn't lose much in the way of power over time, obviously all cars differ but there's no reason to expect a big loss in power.
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Old Mar 26th, 2009, 13:42   #5
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Mileage is around 380 - 400ish miles per tank I guess. I do no long journeys though, lots of starting and stopping and short trips. Surely mine will be better on fuel if its running lean though?
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Old Mar 26th, 2009, 13:47   #6
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My 2.0T made 440-450 pre remap, and about 420-440 post remap.

If the ECU was set to be lean, you'd show more miles in the trip computer - but if your engine is actually running lean, and not being 'told to' you might have something physically up with the engine/fuel system. Does the trip computer agree with actual mileage done?

I doubt changing your air filter would help much unless you've got a massive hole in it (or lack of filter) - you could have a hole in an intake somewhere, or fuel starvation elsewhere maybe? A hole in vacuum tube could allow unmetered air in and cause a lean condition apparently.

Did he test using the OBD2 port (cars own sensors) or measuring using their own sensors? (in exhaust, engine etc)
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Old Mar 26th, 2009, 15:14   #7
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It was in the exhaust, lambda sensor I think he said.

He tested the fuel pressure and it was about 1 bar under what they would expect of a turbo car.
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I doubt changing your air filter would help much unless you've got a massive hole in it (or lack of filter)
Air filter is brand new and fine, it was the fuel filter I was on about changing, the mechanic showed it me on the MOT and he said it looked like it had never been changed.

How to change fuel pump -

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You do need to remove the rear seat, as well as drain the fuel tank to at least below 1/3 or so. With the rear seat removed and the soundproofing also set aside, you will find that there are 2 panels to be removed, one on the right side, and one on the left. Each has about 6 10mm nuts to be removed. Both sides need to be removed as there are connecting wires in the tank from one side to the other. The left side is just a level sensor, but all of the gauge and pump wiring enters there. The right side has the pump and right side level sensor. After removing the collars holding each unit in place, disconnect the wiring in the tank from the left side sending unit, set the sending unit aside, and secure mechanics wire or similar to the harness. You'll need this to draw the new pump harness through the fuel tank. Once secured, you can then remove the pump/level sensor on the right side, carefully pulling the harness through the tank until the mechanics wire is able to be pulled out a bit. Refit all in the reverse order (pay attention before removal as to the orientation of each sensor and pump with relationship to the tank). Also, it would be wise to use new seals for each side as they tend to swell, and will probably be very difficult to reuse.
I guess I will get a garage to do it for me

Also the guys today said that if the car was running right, correct fuelling etc then it should reach around the quoted bhp (250) not bad for a 6 year old car with 88k miles.

Last edited by Trem; Mar 26th, 2009 at 15:33.
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Old Mar 27th, 2009, 19:04   #8
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what about the MAF? Surely get that tested first?

That's my bet.

Was it a Volvo garage that tested the fuel pressure? Where did they get get the specs from if not???

Doesn't sound right to me.

My 115k 04 plate put out 246BHP last July standard!
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Old Mar 27th, 2009, 19:32   #9
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Originally Posted by rick250561 View Post
Thats quite a good result as its only lost 8 horses over 6 years, I thought they lost more as they got older. Is this reflective of all or have you got an exceptionally good one
Not in my experience , the older they are the better they go when fully run in which takes a long time :-) That goes for anything really from a B 14 to a S60 R
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Old Mar 27th, 2009, 19:36   #10
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Was it a Volvo garage that tested the fuel pressure? Where did they get get the specs from if not???
They aren't a Volvo garage but I was stood with him as he connected the gauge and he showed me the pressure, which in his experience was very low for a turbo car. I can't remember exactly what it was but it was 1.5 bar fuel pressure (I think).

I have the printouts including the fuel graph so will scan them in and put them up tomorrow.

For the record I took the car for a rolling road test before opting for a re-map, I didn't know if it was standard and I wanted to check if it was running ok. The garage where I took it were excellent and helpful and were soooooo not after my money, they even told me to go for the fuel filter first as it was the cheapest option and they told me how to change it myself. I would use them if they had a courtesy car but alas they don't.

I recommend them to anyone - http://www.pjmotorsportltd.co.uk/preview.htm

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