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The Joy Of 240's, with issues...

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Old Apr 2nd, 2020, 13:32   #81
CosmicBike
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The plot thickens.
Work today, so Grace put into action again. Usual rough start, but cleared quickly. Interestingly the idle is spot on 800 rpm now when warm, and smooth too.
Gotta love the oldies, they keep me occupied!
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Old Apr 3rd, 2020, 20:55   #82
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More success today. Oil filter removed with my homemade wrench, no more than some webbing wrapped around a spark plug socket.
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File Type: gif Dizzy.gif (42 Bytes, 84 views)
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Old Apr 3rd, 2020, 21:08   #83
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Oil change completed, ran out of time for more fettling, but a quick pic of the dizzy adjuster.
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Old Apr 4th, 2020, 08:16   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CosmicBike View Post
More success today. Oil filter removed with my homemade wrench, no more than some webbing wrapped around a spark plug socket.
Cool banana.
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Old Apr 4th, 2020, 08:25   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CosmicBike View Post
Oil change completed, ran out of time for more fettling, but a quick pic of the dizzy adjuster.
That arrangement is the same as on the Royal Barge:



... but the ignition sensor is contained within the distributor cap on that motor:



... like this:



... so the adjustment works just like it would with CB points. If yours doesn't have an arrangement like that then adjusting the distributor isn't going to change the timing (unless it moved by 90 degrees onto another cylinder).

I'm not sure that is in any way helpful to you, except in eliminating something.

Alan

Last edited by Othen; Apr 4th, 2020 at 08:36.
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Old Apr 8th, 2020, 17:55   #86
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Grace was pressed into service this morning to bring me to work, I'm in the key worker group so allowed out from time to time, to a different locked room!!

Since the bits replacement she now runs very well indeed, the only outstanding niggle being the idle speed. I have searched high and low, there is no adjustment knob, despite the Haynes manual saying there is. The only adjustment is the throttle stop, which I guess does the same thing. I am also unable to locate the blue/white wire that I should ground first to take the IAC valve out of the picture, apparently it's near the battery but no joy finding it so far.
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Old Apr 10th, 2020, 16:48   #87
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A little digging led me to the 'Brickboard' forum, and an article on setting the base idle for LH2.4 equipped models, outlined below.

Setting Base Idle Specs and TPS on Bosch LH2.4-Equipped Cars . [Adapted from Volvo Service Manual 32043/1]
Cleaning the Throttle Body: See the discussion in Engine:Performance for more information
Adjusting the LH2.4:
1. Adjusting Idle Linkage Rod.
Ensure that when the cable drum is pushed off its endstop with a 2.5 mm feeler blade, the gap between throttle lever and adjustment screw is from 0.1 and 0.45 mm. (This is the adjustment screw that mounts on the throttle lever, not the adjustment of the larger nut that attaches the lever to the throttle plate shaft). To achieve the above spec, adjust the throttle link rod (ball-socketed connection rod between drum and throttle lever)
2. Checking the Throttle Body (Plate and Throttle Position Switch) Adjustment
Connect an accurate tachometer then warm up the engine. Let it idle in Park with a/c off. Pinch off the hose between the air intake and the IAC valve (don't damage the hose with something sharp!) Idle speed should drop below 500 rpm, or the engine may stop: both are normal. If idle speed does not drop, adjust as below.
3. Adjusting the Idle Speed
On the front side of your throttle body, there is an adjustment screw. Loosen the lock nut. Start the engine and turn the adjustment screw until idle is 480-520 rpm. Switch off the engine and tighten the lock nut while holding the adjustment screw so it doesn't turn.
4. Checking the TPS Adjustment.
Check the gap between the adjustment screw and the throttle lever with a feeler gauge. Insert a .45mm feeler gauge. There should be no click from the Throttle Position Switch on the rear side of the throttle body when the throttle is closed. Then insert a .15mm feeler gauge. There should be a click from the TPS when the throttle is closed. If these are incorrect, then adjust as below.
5. Adjusting the TPS.
Loosen the TPS adjustment screws holding it to the throttle body. First turn the TPS clockwise (away from the electrical connector) until it stops. While keeping your finger on the throttle disk so it won't move, turn the TPS counter-clockwise (toward the connector) until you hear or feel a click. Continue turning until it stops, then tighten the screws. Go back to step 3 above to check the adjustment.

This matches what I have fitted to my 240, so I followed it this morning. I cannot get the idle below 1100rpm. I have to be honest, it's a minor irritant. The only thing left is the possibility that the new IAC valve I fitted, being a generic item as opposed to a genuine Bosch unit, is the reason. The Haynes manual is quite adamant that you must use the correct model number of IAC as they have a base setting fixed dependant on model No.

I can live with the minor niggle, she's now running really well with just the gearbox oil to change. After that it's cosmetics and the boot hinge wiring.
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Old Apr 11th, 2020, 10:16   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CosmicBike View Post
A little digging led me to the 'Brickboard' forum, and an article on setting the base idle for LH2.4 equipped models, outlined below.

Setting Base Idle Specs and TPS on Bosch LH2.4-Equipped Cars . [Adapted from Volvo Service Manual 32043/1]
Cleaning the Throttle Body: See the discussion in Engine:Performance for more information
Adjusting the LH2.4:
1. Adjusting Idle Linkage Rod.
Ensure that when the cable drum is pushed off its endstop with a 2.5 mm feeler blade, the gap between throttle lever and adjustment screw is from 0.1 and 0.45 mm. (This is the adjustment screw that mounts on the throttle lever, not the adjustment of the larger nut that attaches the lever to the throttle plate shaft). To achieve the above spec, adjust the throttle link rod (ball-socketed connection rod between drum and throttle lever)
2. Checking the Throttle Body (Plate and Throttle Position Switch) Adjustment
Connect an accurate tachometer then warm up the engine. Let it idle in Park with a/c off. Pinch off the hose between the air intake and the IAC valve (don't damage the hose with something sharp!) Idle speed should drop below 500 rpm, or the engine may stop: both are normal. If idle speed does not drop, adjust as below.
3. Adjusting the Idle Speed
On the front side of your throttle body, there is an adjustment screw. Loosen the lock nut. Start the engine and turn the adjustment screw until idle is 480-520 rpm. Switch off the engine and tighten the lock nut while holding the adjustment screw so it doesn't turn.
4. Checking the TPS Adjustment.
Check the gap between the adjustment screw and the throttle lever with a feeler gauge. Insert a .45mm feeler gauge. There should be no click from the Throttle Position Switch on the rear side of the throttle body when the throttle is closed. Then insert a .15mm feeler gauge. There should be a click from the TPS when the throttle is closed. If these are incorrect, then adjust as below.
5. Adjusting the TPS.
Loosen the TPS adjustment screws holding it to the throttle body. First turn the TPS clockwise (away from the electrical connector) until it stops. While keeping your finger on the throttle disk so it won't move, turn the TPS counter-clockwise (toward the connector) until you hear or feel a click. Continue turning until it stops, then tighten the screws. Go back to step 3 above to check the adjustment.

This matches what I have fitted to my 240, so I followed it this morning. I cannot get the idle below 1100rpm. I have to be honest, it's a minor irritant. The only thing left is the possibility that the new IAC valve I fitted, being a generic item as opposed to a genuine Bosch unit, is the reason. The Haynes manual is quite adamant that you must use the correct model number of IAC as they have a base setting fixed dependant on model No.

I can live with the minor niggle, she's now running really well with just the gearbox oil to change. After that it's cosmetics and the boot hinge wiring.
Fascinating stuff.

With the Royal Barge (B21a motor with a Pietburg carburettor) even with the slow running adjustment screwed in it still ticks over at 1000RPM (the Book of Haynes says 900RPM). The tickover is quiet and steady, and sounds very healthy indeed, I don't think there is anything wrong and suspect it may just be the rev counter reading 10% fast. The 'barge certainly doesn't sound like it is ticking over too fast.

I don't have any way of checking the tachometer, so like you I think I'll just leave it as it is. The difference between 900RPM and 1000RPM isn't significant, and is probably just down to the instrument reading.

Good, interesting thread.

Alan
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Old Apr 12th, 2020, 09:15   #89
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Further to the above, I've just ordered one of these to check the veracity of the Royal Barge's tachometer:



... I'll let people know if it is any good some time next week.
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Old Apr 15th, 2020, 22:03   #90
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Fiddle fiddle.
Pumped out the power steering reservoir of fluid and refilled. Old stuff was like coffee. I'll run for a bit then repeat so eventually get all new in the system, more or less.
Had a fiddle with the detent plate too, I think the nylon bush is somewhat worn, but some adjustment later and it seemed to drop into gear better, time will tell.
After refreshing my welding skills I thought I'd try to get that gearbox filler plug out again. No danger of welding a nut/spanner to it, not enough room on axle stands for me. I did manage to get a decent attempt at it with a cold chisel, no movement. I have a friendly local garage so when things calm down I'll ask them to crack it for me on ramps.
Not much left to do now, I do wonder if the clutch pedal to shaft interface is worn, I have at least 1/2 - 3/4" of pedal movement before it starts moving the actuator shaft...
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