740 head gasget

[atco]

hi can you give me a link on how to replace a 740 b230e head gasget please.ive been looking on the forum but cant seem to find thanks

[aardvarkash10]

order the correct gasket kit and new cylinder head bolts
receive the kit and check it is the correct kit
curse the foul weather and drink beer until rain stops
remove inlet and exhaust manifolds.
remove cam cover
remove timing belt cover
set engine to tdc, #1
remove timing belt
remove head bolts
lift head off
remove old gasket
inspect your head - whistle sharply between your teeth as you assess whether it needs to be skimmed
now inspect the cylinder head. Same whistling noise can be used
send it to be skimmed anyway (the cylinder head, not your head)
clean all the old gunk off the top of the block (engine block, not your block)
check the cylinder bores while you are in there. Be amazed at the lack of wear
refer to Haynes manual for reassembly statement.

Its a pretty straightforward mechanical process with very little technical skill required. You will need a torque wrench, but that should be the only specialist tool needed.

If the head has ANY sign of distortion, just get it machined. Even if you are unsure, send it to be machined. It is not difficult or expensive in the long term and will assure a good fit, finish and outcome.

[atco]

hi you make it sound so simple .video would help lots like changing the timing belt when its of. water pump and is it the same engine as a 240.only lots of videos on 240 do i take the radiator of do i drop the oil .lots of things to think about.

[aardvarkash10]

Mark everything as it comes apart, take photos. No, the radiator stays in place, no you don't need ot drop out the oil. You will need to drop out the coolant and renew it on reassembly.

It is as simple as I describe. The engine itself is very basic and has no nasty tricks or catches. If you follow a logical process its just like a piece of IKEA furniture.

The engine is effectively the same in the 240, 740 and 940. Any of the B230x series engines is almost identical in respect of this job.

There is plenty of info on timing belt changes all over the interweb. It would be advisable to put on a new belt if you don't know what the service life of the current one is. Do the tensioner at the same time. Some people advocate for changing the water pump (me) others advocate to leave well enough alone (pretty much everyone else!). I would also replace the thermostat because you are in there anyway and its cheap.

[atco]

thats great news thanks.just changed the oil seal on the rocker as its not good and lots of cream on the cap.but no sign on the dip stick and i will do a head gasget gas test just to make shore its gone .cherrs for the info and will be in touch

[aardvarkash10]

if the head gasket is gone you will be losing water in the radiator.

Cream on the oil cap is also a sign of an engine that has done a LOT of very short trips. Condensation builds up in the crankcase and turns into cream at the top of the engine.

If you are not losing water in the cooling system, I would suggest that you take the car for a damn good thrashing to heat it up and evaporate the water in the oil. Then do an oil change including the filter.

[loki_the_glt]

I would agree with the vast majority of Aardvarkash10's posts -the exception being that the tensioner only needs replacing if it rumbles or feels rough to the touch.

On the B200/230 it's a lot easier to do the timing belt if you have the crankshaft locking tool, since the pulley securing bolt is rather tight. I have one that I lend out if you do have to go down that route.

[atco]

thanks loki ill take you up on that offer.if i need to change the head.but yes im hoping its just mosture in the oil and yes its been sitting for a long time now as its been a working project for ten years and slowly coming together.but ive been running the engine every now and then stop starting .also had to put meths in with the fuel tank to kill the moisture .dip stick is nice and clean as with the radiator tank.so ill change the oil and filter first i think and see how it goes.just a shame its sorn and no mot as i would take here for a good run if that was the case.cherrs

[griston64]

Originally Posted by atco

thanks loki ill take you up on that offer.if i need to change the head.but yes im hoping its just mosture in the oil and yes its been sitting for a long time now as its been a working project for ten years and slowly coming together.but ive been running the engine every now and then stop starting .also had to put meths in with the fuel tank to kill the moisture .dip stick is nice and clean as with the radiator tank.so ill change the oil and filter first i think and see how it goes.just a shame its sorn and no mot as i would take here for a good run if that was the case.cherrs

Just to let you know the same thing happened to my 940. Car had been dry stored for around 5 years but had been started every so often. Lots of cream around oil filler and oil in sump had solidified gunky yucky etc etc. Changed oil and filter, took the car for a good run and it was fine.( I think I did another change after a few weeks to be on the safe side ) She's been used pretty much daily since and is good as goldI change oil and filter every 6 months or 3000 miles which I know is overkill but I enjoy it

[atco]

hi griston.you have just given me a hole lot of confidence mate.started to look at videos on how to change the head.lol and will take that crape oil out as a first.thanks