'94 940 strange issues! HELP ME!

[Xxthefirstxx]

Okay, so to start off... I bought a 940 turbo car for $300 non running, this is my second 940. The ignition coil that was on it was no good, one of the terminals was really loose and had some black stuff in-between the terminal and the coil... When I went to interchange a coil from my other 940,
(Issue one)
I noticed that the positive coil feed wire seemed to be melted. I tested and get 12v at that wire with key on. After getting the fuel situation figured out (incorrectly installed and wired pump as well as hole drilled in the gas tank) I went to go fire it up. I had no spark! I began futzing with it, and found that if I take a wire, directly connect the negative side of the coil to ground, crank it for a second, then disconnect that wire and crank it again, spark comes back (I have no idea why... I also noticed that I hear a really really quick "brrr" from one of the relays when cranking with that wire attached, that's how I know spark is back)
(Issue two)
When I key the ignition on, if the coil is connected, the tach will read 3k, if I start cranking it, the tach will drop to zero and begin twitching like normal...
Also, will not show 3k rpm if the shop battery charger i have is not supplying voltage
(Issue three)
When I install a battery, and not just power it from my shop battery charger, it doesn't like that... (Yes the battery is no good, I just don't feel like buying a new one) if I connect the negative terminal of the battery while the car is idling, it will shut off (even with the shop battery charger on)
I can occasionally get it to run while the battery is hooked up
(Issue four)
I tried taking it around the block, it drives, but is not happy about it. Flooring it is not an option, but if you gradually give it throttle, it initially falls on its face, but picks up power a few seconds later... (It will drive up-hill, etc) (I think this is due to the MAF sensor being unplugged, I cannot get the car to start at all with the MAF sensor unplugged... possibly because it's not in the intake stream as I don't have the tubing that goes from the airbox to the MAF and to the turbo inlet from that)

Edit:Edit: I spent like an hour, fighting it to start, got it started... put the MAF directly in front of the turbo inlet and plugged it in, the idle evened out and went to ~800 rpm (same as my n/a 940 that I have no issues with) but as I took it for a ride around the block, I blew the elbow off of the turbocharger charge outlet, and she didn't want to run like that and died... and I CANNOT no matter what I do, get it to start with the MAF connected!

When I bought this car, the story told to me was that it had been sitting in someone's yard for a number of years, they couldn't keep it there anymore so they gave it to a friend. Said friend was "going to pull off the turbo to put it on a Ford ranger". Their "friend" was also a drug fiend...
Any advice is appreciated! TIA

[360beast]

First if all you need a decent battery and to reinstate the original pipework and have the MAF plugged in. With the MAF plugged in and not actually connected to the inlet pipework the ECU thinks there is no air going in yet there is plenty going in so that's why it won't idle and runs like cr@p!

The tachometer gets its signal from the crank sensor so the fact you say that sometimes it gets a 3k rpm signal and then doesn't plus there is spark and sometimes there isn't I suspect a failing crank sensor as that also provides spark.

Most of the faults could be a red herring from the fact the maf isn't installed properly and the battery is rubbish.

The intercooler pipework blowing off could be from a loose/worn out jubilee clip to a damaged pipe, if they were going to take the turbo off who is to say they didn't start loosening things off before getting too high to finish the job.

[Laird Scooby]

What Luke said ^^^^^

Also it's very bad practice to run any vehicle with an alternator without a battery or a duff one. Also using a charger to start it (unless it's a Dodge Charger with jump leads! ) is a big no-no. Both things can fry the alternator minimum and any transients on the electrical system could also pop the ECU.

You really need to buy yourself a new battery so you can get on with testing things out, i'd also invest in a new CPS (Crank Position Sensor) and change it as a precaution :

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...on+sensor,7196

Take your pick ^^^^^

You'll likely have to change the currency and country back to USA to get prices that are a bit more like you expect.

New battery, CPS and reinstate the hoses, MAF etc and it has a chance of strting and running. You may also need a new fuel pump relay but see how you get on after fixing the basics.