Ignition won't turn beyond position II

[pierremcalpine]

Replaced the ignition housing this afternoon. The combination of cold (2degC) and sitting around trying to patiently drill those f’ing shear bolts out did me in. I could not do it anymore. Instead I brought out the angle grinder and cut into the ignition housing on the left side just below where it connects to the top side piece which holds it in place on the steering column. Within 2min one side was done. There was no room for the angle grinder on the other side (key side) but there WAS room for a dremel cut-off wheel. Just enough room actually. Another 2min and the right side was off. Ahhhhh. So if you don’t need to read-use the ignition housing this is a good option. Sparks of course flew everywhere so I took a tin-foil pan cover and shielded all the important parts before starting. Actually felt good to destroy that thing after being held up by it for such a simple job!!!

[Yorlecm]

Can I add my sincere thanks to all those who have contributed to this thread - I hit this problem at the weekend, or rather my wife did when she went to try and start the car

I haven't had the chance to try and tackle the problem until this morning but thanks to the guidance and excellent photos on here I was able to remove the ignition switch, and get the car to start with a flat blade screwdriver as above. I also managed to remove the key barrel, and confirmed that it can turn through the full range of movement.

However, the part at the bottom of the lock housing that the end of the key engages with [and which in turn passes through the housing and engages with the ignition switch] is the part which won't turn fully on. I couldn't see any obviously broken parts, or how to take this apart?

I put the ignition switch back onto the back of the housing, and re-fitted the lock barrel, and discovered that it I twisted the ignition slightly towards me [i.e. clockwise] whilst operating the key as far as it would go, the combined movement was enough to reach position III and start the car.

I also discovered that it I held the ignition switch in that slightly twisted position, then the key movement alone was enough to start the car. So, I have put the fixing screw back in ABOVE the switch body rather than through the fixing hole in the switch body. This has held the ignition switch about an eighth of a turn out of position, clockwise, and BINGO! the car starts fine on the limited key movement.

It's a bodge, I know, but for now I'm mighty relieved the car will actually start. Oh, and the steering lock still works as well??? I don't think I've got the tools or the capability to start chopping into the lock body so I think the bodge will have to do for now, and hopefully might be a less drastic solution for the next person to suffer this issue.

Again, thanks to all who went before for sharing their experience.

[STAIT]

Originally Posted by kieran40

This seems to be a weakness on these cars,on mine I just drilled out the steering lock,and haven't had a moments bit of grief since with my ignition barrel,only down side you won't have a steering lock again..

Hey Kieran,
I got my car started and moved using the screwdriver in the plastic ignition slot.[Key won't go past position 1 ]
Can't get at my sheer bolt as they are recessed on my S40 2003.
If you had a moment - how would I go about drilling out the steering lock and can you do this without shear-bolt removal?
Car due its MOT soon.

Cheers Scott