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Hot Start problems

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Old Oct 30th, 2017, 23:15   #1
Mike Partridge
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Default Hot Start problems

Has anyone experienced Hot Start problems with the 240 B230A engine? The scenario is that the engine has been run until fully warmed up, then turned off and left for say 20-30 Minutes. Then sometimes, but not always, when trying to restart the engine it turns over, but fails to start and has to be turned over for a longer time to get it going. The transparent in line fuel filter shows fuel is present. Checks on the ignition showed good spark to each plug and a new set of ignition leads was fitted to eliminate possible poor contact at some of the plug caps. It's clearly something temperature related. Any thoughts on potential causes which might help diagnose and locate the problem would be welcome.
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Old Oct 30th, 2017, 23:20   #2
Triple-S
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Mine has the same problems, which I put down to tired plugs as when it eventually starts it chugs on 3 before the last kicks in. I keep meaning to replace them - rebuilt the carb and it has newish leads so thats is all that is left. As you say, only when hot, but that is a common problem on older cars.

P
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Old Oct 30th, 2017, 23:45   #3
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Originally Posted by Mike Partridge View Post
Has anyone experienced Hot Start problems with the 240 B230A engine? The scenario is that the engine has been run until fully warmed up, then turned off and left for say 20-30 Minutes. Then sometimes, but not always, when trying to restart the engine it turns over, but fails to start and has to be turned over for a longer time to get it going. The transparent in line fuel filter shows fuel is present. Checks on the ignition showed good spark to each plug and a new set of ignition leads was fitted to eliminate possible poor contact at some of the plug caps. It's clearly something temperature related. Any thoughts on potential causes which might help diagnose and locate the problem would be welcome.
The pierburg stromberg look alike carb will need attention now , it will have a worn metering needle and jet , the float level will be high due to a collapsed float hinge plastic bridge piece , the choke air bleed valve will be leaking air , and the idle shut off valve probably won't be working , this is designed to stop running on .. even the diaphragm may be perished , you need to get the CO Down to about 2% on idle .. get the idle speed as low as you can , try 850 - 900 rpm ...
We usually cured that problem back in the 80's ...
today the fuel is different and you have a very high compression engine which doesn't help .
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Old Nov 5th, 2017, 00:13   #4
Mike Partridge
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Thanks both for the feedback. The outline of potential problems with the Carburetor likely to fit these symptoms was helpful. I've been reading up about this Carb so I can see these issues might contribute to the problem. I bought this car when it was 4 years old and only a few months later it suffered a major failure of the diaphragm making it impossible to restart the engine. It was easily fixed and has been fine for many years. I'm getting it checked shortly and it will be interesting to see if that turns out to be the problem.
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Old Nov 5th, 2017, 10:41   #5
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Originally Posted by Mike Partridge View Post
Thanks both for the feedback. The outline of potential problems with the Carburetor likely to fit these symptoms was helpful. I've been reading up about this Carb so I can see these issues might contribute to the problem. I bought this car when it was 4 years old and only a few months later it suffered a major failure of the diaphragm making it impossible to restart the engine. It was easily fixed and has been fine for many years. I'm getting it checked shortly and it will be interesting to see if that turns out to be the problem.
Your engine may have a hot start valve on the bulkhead near the carb connected to the air inlet plastic housing with a thick black hose and the other hose from the valve goes downwards towards the floor to vent the float chamber fumes ..
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Old Nov 5th, 2017, 11:47   #6
Stephen Edwin
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Originally Posted by Triple-S View Post
Mine has the same problems, which I put down to tired plugs as when it eventually starts it chugs on 3 before the last kicks in. I keep meaning to replace them - rebuilt the carb and it has newish leads so thats is all that is left. As you say, only when hot, but that is a common problem on older cars.

P
Sparking plugs? Is it always the same three cylinders can you tell? One plug might be more than tired? *

But anyway, sometimes other starting problems can be compensated for by thoroughly cleaning the plugs. One of those devices that blast grit at the plugs. Powered by crocodile clips to the car battery. Used to be sold in Halfords and still obtainable at least second hand on eBay. I kept an old Morris 1100 starting OK for ages by grit blasting the plugs weekly until two obscure faults were found and fixed.

(Or there are some such devices powered by a garage compressor.)


EDIT: * Or is there an ever so teeny weeny: head gasket leak or damage to the head or to a piston &c.?


.

.

Last edited by Stephen Edwin; Nov 5th, 2017 at 12:21. Reason: EDIT *
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240 gl, b230a engine, hot start problems


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