Hardwiring a Dashcam

[Semnoz]

Originally Posted by Waynedance

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F251618137508

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F272894619912

Used the above and wired to the fuse box under the passenger dash.

That's what I did as I did not want to cut the plug from the dash cam.

I also have the Nextbase 512gw is it the latest one with Wi-Fi.

I just received a couple of the fuse piggy-backs that you linked to, and they don't fit as my passenger footwell fusebox takes micro fuses.

The correct item would be something like this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Pcs-Add...t/311904083289

[Simon Jones]

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The one in the picture is a standard fuse. The correct picture for mini fuse can be seen on this listing: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-12-24V...p/122497481617

[Waynedance]

Yes sorry there are 3 different sizes, standard, mini and no micro (just like sim cards lol).

[Timbotambo]

Originally Posted by Simon Jones

I've connected the front dashcam to the fuse panel under the glovebox using 'piggy back' connectors. With the use of a toggle switch, I can flip the power from permanent live to ignition switched. NOTE: most of the fuses are permanent live so it takes some hunting to find the switched one.

Didn't bother with a hardwire kit & used the original lead into an accessory socket mounted under the dashboard with the wire run up A-pillar & tucked in the headlining. Using separate socket makes it easy to add other chargers for phone, sat nav etc without messing around with cables, & it can all be readily removed when I come to sell the car.

I tried something similar a while ago and gave up as I firstly ordered the wrong fuses (should have got micro ones). Then, when the right ones came, I couldn't get it to power on. Any idea how to identify the correct fuse (in very basic terms, as if talking to a toddler)?? I followed some guides online but to no avail

[Semnoz]

Originally Posted by morsing

If you pull the door rubber off the A-pillar it's actually very easy to run the wiring inside the A-pillar and above the windscreen.

Thought I'd share my thoughts on this, having just wired in a rear camera. I did initially start routing the cable along the top of the door frames, as that's the most direct route. However, I soon realised I was running alongside the SIPS air-bags (or 'curtain' air-bags as they're sometimes known).

I'm not sure if it's particular to my car as I have the child safety pack, but the curtain air-bag is rolled up and runs all the way from the C-Pillar above the rear seats, across to the the A-Pillar and down towards the dash. I then had visions of getting strangled by a video cable in the event of air-bag deployment (sounds like something from a horror movie !).

So I then re-routed the video cable along the floor of the car, near the edge of the carpet. I did still need to pass the cable up the A-Pillar, but at least it's position between the windscreen and the rolled up air-bag. So if that front LHS air-bag does get deployed, at least it'll only be pushing the video cable against the inside of the windscreen, and not around my neck !

[Semnoz]

Originally Posted by Timbotambo

I tried something similar a while ago and gave up as I firstly ordered the wrong fuses (should have got micro ones). Then, when the right ones came, I couldn't get it to power on. Any idea how to identify the correct fuse (in very basic terms, as if talking to a toddler)?? I followed some guides online but to no avail

Are you asking which fuse number is best to power the dash-cam ? If so, one that gets power as soon as the ignition gets to position I or II. One that is powered off when the ignition is at 0, or car locked. And one that is of a low amp rating.

I went with fuse number 17 (2008 V70, passenger footwell fuse-box) as it doesn't relate to a safety feature of the car and is 7.5A rating, and it's powered off when the car is locked and alarmed (with a few minutes delay).

[AndrewTi]

Just put the one in the wife's V70, I used the tunnel 12v socket fuse in box b. Only downside is it goes live as soon as you unlock the car, so when light permits, I may try another power source.

With the kit, 20 mins start to finish.

[Simon Jones]

On mine, the fuses under the glovebox used were:

5 (reserve) - ignition switched
8 (reserve) - live, but you could also use 12, 16, 20 or 24 (all reserve / empty on mine)

I seem to recall, I was unable to get the plastic cover back on afterwards due to the height of the piggy-back fuses, but it's so tucked away on the bulkhead that there's little chance of anything being disturbed.

[Semnoz]

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I wasn't sure if the 'reserve' fuse spaces were wired up or not - so useful to know as I'd rather not 'piggy back' onto top of an existing supply.

Just move my piggy-back across to 5 and that's even better thanks - now dash-cam is only powered on when ignition is in position II, e.g. when engine is running.

I did wonder about the fuse-box lid clearance. I must confess that due to buying the wrong size piggy-back holder earlier this week, I ended up making my own adaptor by soldering a red 10A cable onto the top end of the blade on a spare 7.5A fuse (had to cut some of the plastic away first) and sealing it all with heat-shrink. It's only temporary but quite solid enough - and as it's only the cable's width higher than the fuse, at least the lid closes

[AndrewTi]

Originally Posted by Simon Jones

On mine, the fuses under the glovebox used were:

5 (reserve) - ignition switched
8 (reserve) - live, but you could also use 12, 16, 20 or 24 (all reserve / empty on mine)

I seem to recall, I was unable to get the plastic cover back on afterwards due to the height of the piggy-back fuses, but it's so tucked away on the bulkhead that there's little chance of anything being disturbed.

Sorry Simon, being thick, are these in the fuse box with the lid, or the open one with the big cable affair that goes into the middle? Think I'd like to swap to this number 5!!!