Slipping tyre and pulling left

[sreviz]

Originally Posted by Dancake

If your left caliper was sticking or seized, the car would pull to the left*. If your tyres aren't directional, change the front tyres around with each other. Move the left to the right and the right to the left. If the problem persists, you could be looking at worn suspension bushings, steering components or a broken spring. Are the track rod ends secure? Particularly on the nearside.

Yes. I will try that option aswell after regressing the slider pins with Simon grease in the caliper. Switching the tyres a good approach. I did my left wish bone 2 yrs ago. Drop links were new on the front. Iam not sure how to check and the inner tie rod play.
What are the symptoms if the inner tie rod or is worn please?
Thank you.

[Dancake]

Worn inner tie rods will normally exhibit similar symptoms to worn outer tie rods/track rods. There will be slightly more slack in the steering, and as a result the car could drift to one side. You can check for play in them by jacking the front end of the car up and rocking the wheels at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions, or get someone to turn the steering wheel from left to right and watch for excessive play or movement. You won't be able to see properly unless you remove the dust boots that cover the inner tie rods though. There should ideally be zero inwards/outwards movement in the balljoint, and it should be stiff to rotate or move.

It is however possible for a worn inner tie rod to appear fine when checking under these conditions. Sometimes the fault doesn't show itself until the steering is under load. You may even need to remove the tie rods to check them. Good inner tie rods, as previously mentioned, will be stiff to move in the balljoint. Worn inner tie rods will often flop about and present no resistance at all in the balljoint.

[sreviz]

Thank you for the wealth of information .
I will diagnose as per the advice and will update later.
Thank you.

[ShadeTek]

I had a similar symptom to this. When I braked the wheel would pull left and when I accelerated it would pull to the right, although not as much. Turned out to be the main bushings on the control arm causing it to flop about. Polybushing the control arm solved the problem for me. Jack you car up with the wheel in the air and see if it moves left to right to see if your bushes are OK. Well known fail point on these cars.

[sreviz]

Originally Posted by ShadeTek

I had a similar symptom to this. When I braked the wheel would pull left and when I accelerated it would pull to the right, although not as much. Turned out to be the main bushings on the control arm causing it to flop about. Polybushing the control arm solved the problem for me. Jack you car up with the wheel in the air and see if it moves left to right to see if your bushes are OK. Well known fail point on these cars.

Hi I did the left control arm couple of years back with complete volvo set.
Changed droppings with meyle.
Do u think it will pull towards left even though that side arm was replaced with new one. I thought just the opposite side .

Will try it though the wheel method.

Thank you.

[ShadeTek]

Originally Posted by sreviz

Hi I did the left control arm couple of years back with complete volvo set.
Changed droppings with meyle.
Do u think it will pull towards left even though that side arm was replaced with new one. I thought just the opposite side .

Will try it though the wheel method.

Thank you.

When I had an 850, if you tightened the control arm to chassis bolts up before you lowered it to the ground, the bushes would prematurely detach from the control arm. You had to tighten the bolts with the weight on the wheel and the control arm in the standing rest position. If you did not do that correctly, like I did, within a year you would get the steering wheel brake tug as the bush was shredded. This is not a problem on the v70 BUT it took me a while to work out what the problem was as I dismissed the control arm causing the issue as I had replaced it the year before and thought, no way was it faulty already. But it was. So, worth trying it out and have a good tug and pull of the wheels when they are in the air and see what is loose.

[D5meister]

Jack up the dodgy wheel, with the engine running does the wheel rotate freely?

Compare with the one that is good.

[sreviz]

Wow!!!!! That I didnt think of it to rotate the wheel when engine running. Does it need to be both the front wheels up or one side is fine?
Weather today is a bit cold and windy but will do all the points mentioned here in this thread soon.
Thank you. Will update how it goes when Iam on it.

[sreviz]

Did managed to raise both the wheels today and swapped the tyres.
I found the brake disc holding bolt head broken and the assembly was hold together by wheel bolts only.
I drilled a new hole and affixed a new bolt.
There is no rubbing in the brake pads against disk and wheels spin freely.

Went for a drive. The near side tyre slips still persists when turning tight corner on the right side.

Control arm bushes were fine.
Did a 3 and 9"o" clock movement on the tyres. There is no play aswell.

Any one has any thoughts or advice please why the tyre feel like slipping- like skid fir a second only when turning tight towards right side but the left side wheel deels slight skid.


Thank you.

[sreviz]

Just realised that may be the bolt head snapped because if this slip when turning.
Please show me the direction to diagnose further.
Thank you.