Engine: 2.7 F/Inj B27E: Ignition 'King Lead" resistance 22kohm?

[volvo264]

HI all

I am trying to troubleshoot ignition system on the barn find 264gl . just got it towed to my garage yesterday.

What should be the resistance on the "king lead" from coil to the distributor cap? I am getting 22-23kohm for 60cm lead Shouldn't it be around 5-6Kohm per meter. Also when i turn the engine with this lead close to the engine block , no spark. I will get new ones but is there a resistance table for the B27E with Bosh 0221 122 003 coil. I am getting 12.1v at input of resistance ballaster and 4.7v out at +terminal of coil. When crank I get 5V at Coil +terminal ( just no spark out the lead ).

Things plan next
- Try and get a spark from the coil to cap would be a good start!

Any pointer if i am missing the obvious would be much appreciated.



Basic Things done so far, the easy ones..anyway

-Old fuel drained and new fuel 20L ( fuel gauge working )
-Air filter check and distribute cap/rotor cleaned some oxidization on the contact.
-Oil is still viscous and no sign of water etc. ( will change later with new filter).
- Drained radiator coolant but was very clear and green. No trace of cloudy water/rust etc. New coolant replaced. ( will flush once car starts to turn)
- Haven't touched fuel filter or fuel pump/relay yet. ( not sure where the relay is located)
- Checked operation of these electrical system ( Headlight/L&Hbeam, driving light, hazard, seat fasten buzzer, brake lights, indicator L/R, horn, reverse, inhibitor switch, blower. dome light and L/R Reading lights, bonnet and trunk light all ok
-Opened one spark plug CYLINDER 6, looks fine, does not looked oily , pretty dry and brownish colour around the insulation nose. ( will replace all later)
- disassembled windscreen pump and gave it a clean , works fine now , disconnected jet pipe and new water flows fine to the Jet junctions.

[penninepullman]

I have looked at the relevant Volvo workshop manual (green book), and the following may be useful for you:

All 7 HT leads should have a resistance of 5.6k ohms +/- 20%
(This is for 1977 and later 6 cyl cars; earlier ones and 4 cyl are different)

Rotor arm should have a resistance of 5k +/- 1k ohms

Ignition coil resistances:
Primary coil (across terminals 1 (-) & 15 (+)) should be 0.5 +/- 0.1 ohms
Secondary coil (across terminals 1(-) & HT) should be 9.5k +/- 1.5k ohms
Ballast resistor 1.0 +/- 0.1 ohms

I don't know the Bosch part no. for the coil; but 4 and 6 cyl cars have different spec coils.

You will probably find the fuel pump relay forward of the fusebox and below the glovebox. Remove the cover below the glovebox to access it. The relay may be green or maroon (as I have in my 244)

[PIT]

Hi Good to hear another 264 is being rescued. I have nearly finished my 262c, just started on my 265, and have a 264 to go after that. I have stripped these cars to bare bones and put them together again, and ,surprisingly, they work just fine. That includes dismantling the Bosch K jetronic fuel injection and its fuel distributor, and reassembling and resetting its operational parameters, so I could have encountered the same sort of problems that you may.
The coil voltages that you mention are the same as all mine, and are fine. You could try a paper clip in the coil centre, and a half inch (13mm) gap to one of the three nuts on the strut top. There should be a convincing spark. Naturally caution as it can give you quite a wack. The ignition is powered from the grey Bosch ignition unit on the inner drivers side (RHD) wing. The spark is triggered by a pick up coil in the distributor. If there is absolutely no spark at all there are a set of test resistances that you can check to ascertain the health or otherwise of the pick up coil and the bosch ignition unit. Let us know how it goes. If you are interested my builds are on Facebook under Philip Trueman. Let me know if I can help.

[volvo264]

thanks penninepullman for the info and will check the Relay location again. I did check the fuses and took the cover under the clove box yesterday . will have a closer look today. I been reading these site https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/fu...0_relays.shtml. . will update as i progress gradually.

[volvo264]

Originally Posted by PIT

Hi Good to hear another 264 is being rescued.--Let me know if I can help.

Thanks PIT for your insight, sounds like you have an addiction and experience working on PRV too!! I did get a new King ignition lead but could only find Bosch B66CRI lead yesterday around 3.5kohm. Gave it a go but still no luck. The Bosch ignition lead set for this car when i checked was B6016I but was not available in local store. Since the spark plug were NGK BP6EFS, I will get the full NGK set anyway later in the week.

I decided to get back to my Volvo's and restore this one if it works. i have done restoration on BMW E34 535is but not on Volvo's yet. I kept the restored pic on the E34 and E24 in the M3 forum http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/garag...ehicle&id=1432. I think I will create a FB page like you do , its much easier.

Will try a few things today, and on what you suggested and its almost 12 midday sunday and eating into my afternoon sunday at the PUB! This is definitely going to be a long project for me .. Will update as i Progress

[volvo264]

[QUOTE=volvo264;2339199]thanks penninepullman for the info and will check the Relay location again..[https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/index.php/QUOTE]

Had a good look and found two relay in a dual bracket tucked back under the clovebox. White plug ( Fuel Pump ) P/N Bosch 0 332 015 009 ( with a green mark), black plug with Bosch 0 332 204 110 . I will try and test them and replace as needed. Did find crappy crumbled fuse on slot 7 ( fuel pump/Clock 16A), replaced all ceramic fuse and cleaned all terminals with wire brush just in case. Will continue when the the new ignition coils, leads, cap and rotors arrives.

Also found these very useful documents answered some of my questions
http://www.240.se/litteratur/tp12043_4.pdf
http://www.240.se/litteratur/tp12044.pdf

lost of reading ..

[volvo264]

[QUOTE=volvo264;2339573][QUOTE=volvo264;2339199]thanks [QUOTE=volvo264;2339573]

Originally Posted by volvo264

thanks penninepullman for the info and will check the Relay location again..[https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/index.php/QUOTE]
.

Checked all the resistance on coil, ballast resister and rotor and they seem to check out sort off.

Primary coil =0.4ohm
Secondary coil =9.16kohm
ballast resistor =0.5-0.6ohm
rotor =5.36kohm

Got a good spark by tapping to the engine block ( 10mm off the block ) so sounds like coil, ballast, and king lead is good now. Did clean the ballast resistor ( Bosch P/N 0 227 900 101 , 04ohm+0,6ohm serial ) . Still need to replace the dist Cap as its a bit worn out .

Started looking at the CI fuel injection system and just removed cylinder 3 fuel injector and no trace of fuel at jet end at all . Fuel flow/pressure issue maybe ? and still not sound of the ext fuel pump operation. Faulty relay/pump ?

Will start trouble shooting fuel pump and CI K-Jetronic on the weekend . but good to get large spark from coil.

Attach pic of findings on ignition system

I am using the CI fault tracing procedure on this document http://www.240.se/litteratur/tp12044.pdf.

Its for B27F , is there another guide for B27E with the octopus air intake or this fault tracing guide for CI Bosch K-jetronic system applicable for both for B27F and B27E?

Also is there a "Air flow sensor" on the B27E? as suggested by the doc to trouble shoot i.e remove the connector to enable fuel pump operation. I am trying to locate it but do you have to remove the octopus manifold to get access to it ?

I will try to trouble shoot fuel line& CI system the weekend and update.

Much appreciated

[PIT]

Hi Don, very interesting investigation. Glad you have a spark! All of my engines are b27e but not with the octopus manifold, although the operation of the parts appears to be similar or the same. Could you take some photos of the entire engine top so I can try and get a handle on where everything is to compare to mine. The fuel injection appears to be the same as mine, except the fuel pump on mine has a single large relay. I have been reading the green books you referred to and there are some differences in detail. There is a safety device built in to kill the main fuel pump if the engine does not start, or stalls whilst running. It also kills the fuel pump if there is a crash. This stops the engine bay bursting into flame in such an instance. I think (but could be wrong) that your model year has a switch in the air flow meter box that detects air flow and allows the main pump to work, so if the engine does not start, the main fuel pump will not run. You will need to over ride this switch to get the pump to turn on with the ignition on. You could also power up the pump directly from the two wires, and plug under the back passenger seat. This is how i confirmed that the fuel pump was working on mine. I put a multi meter in line with it, and it drew about 6-8 amps. Once this is confirmed, and running, you can test the injection system. I melted three holes in the side of a pop bottle and put injectors 1,2,and3 in so I could see them, but contain the sprayed petrol. With the pump running, and the ignition disconnected at the grey box, distributor pick up lead, either press the air plate down (my case) or lift the plate up (could be your type), and fuel should spray into the bottle. The injectors should make a high pitched whining noise as they operate. They open, and spray and then the pressure falls and they close. The pressure then increases and they open again and so on, many times a second. This is where the noise comes from. This chattering of the injectors helps to atomise the fuel. If the car has been stood for some time i suspect there will be no fuel flow. The plunger in the fuel distributor is very susceptible to gumming up, and that stops it moving and blocks the metering slits. This is not a problem, but cleaning can be tedious. Rather than go through cleaning needlessly let me know if the fuel pump operates, and if fuel issues forth from the injectors. As a PS the fuel metering distributor is quite robust as long as handled/dismantled in a sensitive manner, so if no fuel comes out, I may be able to give advice to stop you falling down some of the pit falls I managed to tumble into, possibly saving you time and money. Looking forward to the next installment! Regards Philip

[PIT]

[/IMG][IMG][/IMG]

This is the top of mine. You will have to bear with me, trying to work out how to post correct photos!

[PIT]

This is what it is in[IMG][/IMG]