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Diesel Engines A forum dedicated to diesel engines fitted to Volvo cars. See the first post in this forum for a list of the diesel engines. |
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>D5 -2005. Cam seal leak.Views : 1955 Replies : 6Users Viewing This Thread : |
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May 1st, 2015, 16:36 | #1 |
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>D5 -2005. Cam seal leak.
Hi,
Oil appears to be leaking from my cam seal, on the cambelt side of the engine. Seems straightforward enough to get the cam pulley off. The Volvo instructions that i have seen say (in bold capitals) "DO NOT ALLOW THE CAMSHAFTS TO MOVE". How can I prevent that from happening, without spending days pulling my injectors and getting the valve cover off? Can't I just put it back in position once I have the pulley back on if they do move?? Any help much appreciated. Thanks. |
May 1st, 2015, 16:41 | #2 |
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You use a camshaft locking tool.
Don't the Volvo instructions you've seen say that? Even Haynes knows......
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2002 S60 SE D5 Manual 209000 miles |
May 15th, 2015, 15:28 | #3 |
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I have a similar problem at the moment - oil all over the inside of the cambelt housing on my 04 V70 D5 SE G/T 197k miles.
I've read it up and seen the locking tool diagrams you posted, thanks, but my question is when I change the belt I don't lock the shafts, so if I take off the belt and then the sprocket, to get at the seal, why should the cams move? On t5s sometimes one cam sprocket will move a little and you have to use a lever to move it to get the timing right when fitting the belt but on D5s they always stay in the same position. If it's all about the slotted holes and re-fitting the sprocket in the right place so the timing is right, surely scribing/marking the position before removal would enable you to put it back in the same place?
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May 15th, 2015, 18:06 | #4 |
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To lock the camshaft properly you will have to off the high pressure pump, and use a dowel into the gear, this will allow the camshaft bolts to be removed at the front and the gear removed, and then aligned with the mark on the cover at the front when replacing it, the manual says that the bolts should be in the middle of the slots when replacing, or make a note in what position they were in before you removed the bolts.
Hope that helps John |
May 16th, 2015, 13:21 | #5 |
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Correction to the above post.
Its the Vacuum pump that has to be taken off to get the locking pin in to verify the cam position. John |
May 20th, 2015, 23:46 | #6 |
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When you change the cam belt, tensioner and water pump, it's worth taking a real good look for signs of an oil leak from the cam shaft seal. A minor oil leal from an oil seal can often be reduced or even stopped by using an oil stop leak additive, like Liqui Moly Motor Oil Saver:
https://pim.liqui-moly.de/pidoc/P000...ver-7.0-en.pdf If you are using an xw30 oil, it also helps in leak rate terms to move to an xw40 during the summer.
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May 23rd, 2015, 08:44 | #7 |
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When a seal is starting to leak replace it, the last thing you want is oil getting onto the cambelt, make sure where the seal is in contact with the cam shaft that's its clean etc.
With ref to adding oil stop leak additive this really is not a long term solution. |
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