Cam belt change 2.3 turbo

[Rversteeg]

I count my blessings living in The Netherlands, all mentioned parts, including the front crank housing gasket, available ex stock from multiple suppliers all over the country. So as long as it does not involve specific RHD parts, it would seem we do not need to worry about availibility of spare parts for our bricks the coming years. Shipping over to the UK is something else...

[360beast]

Originally Posted by lynns hubby

I would have to agree with Clan here. I have lost count of the number of timing belts I have changed on redblocks over the years. Only changed the seals if required (not that often) not as a matter of course.
Just take the belt cover off and have a look before you order anything.

Originally Posted by Clan

you have a look :-) I've been working on them 47 years :-)

You two must have found the only redblocks around not leaking out of the front seals then, every one I've owned and worked on have been leaking from the front seals including a 100k mile 940 and my 114k mile 360 was leaking so badly from the front crank seal whenever it rained the work car park turned in to a rainbow, I dealt with that one pretty quickly!

[Chris1Roll]

Originally Posted by Rversteeg

I count my blessings living in The Netherlands, all mentioned parts, including the front crank housing gasket, available ex stock from multiple suppliers all over the country. So as long as it does not involve specific RHD parts, it would seem we do not need to worry about availibility of spare parts for our bricks the coming years. Shipping over to the UK is something else...

The UK is something else these days. Took two weeks to get some genuine front brake pads from Sweden.
Other than basic service items, you'll usually have to wait a couple days for parts.
I Was talking about this the other day, I've been watching some YouTubers resurrect old American metal. They drag a 70's land yacht out of a barn or shed or the woods, then just pop to the nearest 'o reilleys' where they have exactly what they need, in stock, or move it across thousands of Miles for the next day.
Meanwhile I needed a rotor arm for a fairly common car and it took 3 days!

[loki_the_glt]

Originally Posted by 360beast

It's best to get the genuine Volvo crank locking tool too but I don't have a part number for this, Alf on here lets people borrowed his though.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...=319443&page=5

Post #45 shows the crank housing

PM sent to "mcrae magic" with details of the crankshaft tool arrangements.

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by Chris1Roll

The UK is something else these days. Took two weeks to get some genuine front brake pads from Sweden.
Other than basic service items, you'll usually have to wait a couple days for parts.
I Was talking about this the other day, I've been watching some YouTubers resurrect old American metal. They drag a 70's land yacht out of a barn or shed or the woods, then just pop to the nearest 'o reilleys' where they have exactly what they need, in stock, or move it across thousands of Miles for the next day.
Meanwhile I needed a rotor arm for a fairly common car and it took 3 days!

Brexit has a lot to do with that.

[Forrest]

To make this thread helpful for anyone searching in the future, the following Volvo special tools are very useful, although some may argue not essential, for the jobs the op is planning.

Retainer for the crankshaft pulley 9995284
Cam and auxiliary shaft seal installation sleeve 9995025
Crankshaft seal installation sleeve 9995283

Not so essential is the camshaft pulley locking tool 9995199

For the latter you can easily use a generic adjustable pulley counter-hold tool. The advantage of using the correct tools for inserting the front seals is that they are designed to avoid flipping over the inner lip of the seal which other methods might do, thus avoiding annoying new leaks.

As an aside, Volvo also do a special tool for inserting the rear crankshaft seal. You may well have a leaking rear seal but can only replace it yourself if you are prepared to remove the transmission.

IMHO these seals will leak if the PCV system has been neglected. This is very often the case, even on cars with service history. Checking, and if necessary fixing, the PCV is the first job to do before replacing the seals.

[Chris1Roll]

A coupke of hacks:

To get the cam pulley off, I discovered the crank locking tool fits the holes in the pulley well enough, and wedge it against the water pump.

The crank bolt is xNM + 60degrees. I found turning the breaker bar from being in contact with the auto transmission cooler line, until it is in contact with the upper radiator hose, is pretty much bang on 60degrees.

[Forrest]

I do the 44ft lbs + 60° by putting the breaker bar on the bolt where it fits over towards the left hand side of the engine compartment, noting its position then taking it off and moving it to the next flat of the nut anti-clockwise. Then pull hard until it’s back in the first position.

Six sided nut. 360°➗6 = 60°

[lynns hubby]

IMHO these seals will leak if the PCV system has been neglected. This is very often the case, even on cars with service history. Checking, and if necessary fixing, the PCV is the first job to do before replacing the seals.[/QUOTE]

Spot on. I was going to mention that as people only tend to look at the system when they get problems. IE heavy breathing or "Damp" seals.

[baggy798]

Only change seals if they are leaking.

Would you replace your shoes if they had 10 years life left in them?

Would you replace your socks if they didn't have holes in them?

WOULD YOU??? Nooo!