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Thought the problem was the PCV. It isn't the PCV...

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Old Jun 20th, 2015, 10:20   #21
CaptainAhab
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You can take the MAF out and clean the wire with carb cleaner, sometrimes helps!
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Old Jun 20th, 2015, 12:34   #22
Sig the V40
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I watched some cleaning videos on T'tube and it seems fairly straightforward, so I'll give it a go when I get an hour or two.
Final question though please, am I doing the car any harm by driving it like this? It's been like it since I bought it, so that's something I suppose, but I wouldn't want to be damaging it, that would just be stoopid.
Thanks again all. Y'oums all a bunch of eggs.
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Old Jun 20th, 2015, 13:10   #23
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I've been driving for the last fifty thousand miles or so with the Lambda light on most of the time. Various sensors and electricals have been replaced over the years and the codes re-set but after a time, sometimes only a few miles, the light comes back on. Now I have the bodywork in a decent state I think it's time to get to the bottom of the running problems. The odd thing is though that most of the time it runs reasonably well, and emissions have been exceedingly low at each MoT.

Another odd thing is that after the engine bay was pressure washed the car ran much better for about a week, clutch judder disappeared, and idling was smoother. It occurred to me that something had been disturbed in some way by the water jet, and maybe an electrical contact improved in some way, it's a real mystery.

As to the MAF, the garage suggested checking the convoluted air inlet pipe for leaks, before investing in expensive replacements, so that will probably be the next step.

The engine certainly runs noticeably more smoothly on V-Power or equivalent, but it shouldn't really need it as far as I know. An expert on lubrications and pollutants did say it's probably quite a good idea to have a tankful of high octane fuel once in a while though, as the fuel contains additives which can give the engine a bit of a 'spring clean'.

I read somewhere on this forum that earth connections can cause many problems, it could be worth searching for that thread.

Your car looks to be a real bargain and definitely worth spending a bit on it to make it run well.
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Old Jun 21st, 2015, 14:12   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angie View Post
I've been driving for the last fifty thousand miles or so with the Lambda light on most of the time.......
Really??? Why.

Higher octane fuel is simply better fuel with more stuff to burn or convert to energy. You will do more mpg because there is more energy available. I would guess it cleans your engine marginally, not because of additives, but because it has less crap and filler than lower priced fuel.

Yes you can give the hot wire on the MAF a careful clean. Also worth giving the contacts on the MAF connector a clean and some Vaseline.........

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Old Jun 21st, 2015, 15:01   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tannachyallen View Post
Really??? Why.



Dave A
Simply that it's running reasonably well and emissions are ok so I've never pressed the garage to investigate really thoroughly, though they have checked injectors, replaced a couple of sensors etc. at various times but no long-term improvement. I'd like to get it right and now seems to be the right time, I know I haven't been getting the best out of the car. I'll check air inlet as suggested, that's something I can do for myself.
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Old Jun 21st, 2015, 15:38   #26
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I'll be doing this in the morning, so I'll value everyones advice,, will follow it all up and post the results when i'm done.
Seems it's been useful for others too. Excellent!
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Old Jun 21st, 2015, 17:56   #27
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Angie, if the so called 'lambda light' is on, it's on for a reason, either you have a fault code logged or possibly an electrical short making it illuminate. I'm fairly sure that an illuminated engine management light is now an MOT fail. (you could resort to removing the bulb of course..........)

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Old Jun 21st, 2015, 21:37   #28
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It registers faults, can't remember which ones now but generally referring to mixture at cruise, but more recently it's the one about signal from MAF meter, which prompted the thought about checking for air leaks before investing in a new meter. I think there could be a problem with idle valve, which has been cleaned but idle is still unpredictable. I just haven't got around to checking the part number to order the right one, and also they vary in price from around £28 to over £100, so I've bucked the issue and postponed dealing with it. Fuel consumption is good and, as I said, emissions very low, so MoT hasn't been a problem so far.

Yes, I know, procrastination is the thief of time! But thanks Dave, and the OP, for prompting me, it would be good to have everything behaving as it should.

Oh, I also had a new head gasket fitted some time back, there was a small loss of coolant, and things improved for a while after that.
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Old Jun 22nd, 2015, 14:48   #29
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the amm cleans itself every time you start the car.


re the pcv system, would be worth changing the breather box under teh inlet manifold as these get clogged after a long time.
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240 pcv, b200f, flame trap


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