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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Water pumpViews : 1231 Replies : 16Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jul 13th, 2018, 10:27 | #1 |
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Water pump
Got an annoying metallic noise coming from the engine bay of my car…
Pretty sure it’s the water pump that’s at fault: there’s aprox 2mm of play in the fan blades front to back (i.e. when you give it a shake) and there seems to be some graunchy-ness if you rotate the blades back and forward (in the direction of travel). The pump is not leaking but I want to change it before it gets any worse. Not done one of these on an Amazon before… genuine Volvo part/reproduction OK? Easy job? Hints and tips? Any advice welcomed as always. Mike |
Jul 13th, 2018, 13:10 | #2 |
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Easy job. Don't try and do it without removing the radiator. Make sure the block face and the underside of the head are clean and smooth. Use a small amount of grease on both sides of the paper gasket. Hold the rubber seals in with a bit of grease. Wipe a bit of grease on the head face, a minimal amount. Not too much as they can slip and twist when you push the pump upwards. Hold pump in place and fit bolts one at a time. You will probably fit one of the lower bolts and then have to twist the pump a bit to allow the other bolts to go in and this twisting can displace the rubbers. This is when the rubber rings can slip so keep an eye on them as they are hard to see. Snug up the bolts till they touch the pump. Do not tighten. Find a length of wood that will fit from a trolley jack to the underside of the pump and jack it up gently. If you see the car body start to rise that is enough. You can do that by hand so it doesn't take much effort. The grease on the gasket will allow the pump to move up a fraction and push the rubbers against the head. Tighten the bolts going crosswise. No torque specified so about 30ft/lbs. Refit, pulley, fan, rad, refill and test for leaks.
Hopefully noises gone. Check fan for cracks around the centre before you do the job. Pulley can crack around the bolt holes too. Not a bad idea to run the bolts into the block to clean the threads before refitting. If buying the pump from Brookhouse, also buy the bolt kit. At £1.68 it's a no brainer and will be post free with the pump. Good luck. |
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Jul 13th, 2018, 13:27 | #3 |
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Cheers Derek!
Bought a pump from Brookhouse along with the bolts... as you say, for less than 2 quid you'd be a fool not to. Thought I'd have to remove the radiator, so I'm glad you confirmed this. Didn't know about the jacking/alignment part, so, thanks again for outlining this. Might do it this weekend if the weather is not unbearably hot. Last water pump I did was on a 2.8 Capri a fair few years back... held on with 10 13mm bolts IIRC and every single one sheared off when I removed the pump. Took AGES to remove the old ones, tap the holes... in November. In the rain. Hope this job goes better!! |
Jul 13th, 2018, 14:26 | #4 |
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Whatch out Mike!
two different sealing rings to the head. 8.5mm height and 9.5mm height depends on thicknes of head gasket. (9.5mm with 2mm head gasket, B20A) seal the threads with a fluid gasket type good luck, Kay |
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Jul 16th, 2018, 09:34 | #5 |
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Mike, a word of warning. Last year I had to change the water pump three times! The old one was getting noisy, so I changed it for a new one from Brookhouse while I was doing another job. After running the engine for about 20 minutes, the bearing on the new pump went. Exchanged it for another one from Brookhouse, that one only ran for 5 minutes before the bearing went. Simon obviously refunded, but I said I didn't want another from the same supplier. I found an NOS one on ebay that was a different make (I forget what), fitted that and it's been fine ever since (about 4,000-5,000 miles).
I trust Brookhouse in principle, and they're so knowledgeable and helpful, but the parts are only as good as the suppliers, and over the years I've bought many duff parts from there which have had a major impact in terms of time and labour cost of repeating jobs. I would say that sub-standard parts are the main cause of unreliability with my car. Mainly water pumps, alternators and anything made of rubber. Plus a new piston that cracked and damaged a recently rebuilt engine. In each case, I've ended up figuring out alternative solutions. I imported an alternator from the USA, found a water pump on ebay, and generally I avoid buying things made of rubber and choose polyurethane options wherever possible. At the very least, try and get as much information off the new water pump as you can before you fit it, so that if it does let you down you can make sure you replace it with one that isn't the same make or batch.
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Jul 16th, 2018, 20:32 | #6 |
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Thanks for the heads up Andy.
The pump I've got (from Brookhouse) is in a box labelled Airtex - hope it's a good one!! |
Jul 16th, 2018, 20:44 | #7 |
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...more important to me would be country of manufacture...
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Jul 16th, 2018, 21:13 | #8 |
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Instructions/guarantee card states that it's made in Spain...
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Aug 4th, 2018, 01:26 | #9 |
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Here a video from Amazon Cars showing you what to do to change the waterpump
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=andPOxPbplI. Maybe helpful Faust |
Aug 4th, 2018, 09:22 | #10 |
arcturus
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Don't forget to apply "copper ease" liberally to all your bolts
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