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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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Rear anti-roll bar drop linksViews : 454 Replies : 9Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jul 21st, 2018, 13:26 | #1 |
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Rear anti-roll bar drop links
Hello folks,
I've had an annoying knock coming from what appears to be the driver's side recently - that side has always sat a bit low so I was going to bite the bullet and replace the shocks and springs. However, first port of call was to check bushes etc since the knock only seems to happen going right or on roundabouts - my suspicions were the ARB drop links and/or bushes. So I've had the b****** link out on the driver's side this morning, despite my better judgement of working in the heat. Small fight with the upper nut and larger fight with heat and an angle grinder on the lower. Seems the old one was bent (I'll post pics later). So new one in and if you are familiar, the top part of the link was two bushes which sit either side of the ARB eyelet and a couple of top-hat washers top and bottom. So to get to my questions - when I tighten up the nut at the top, the bushes obviously compress - but how far do I tighten? Up to the end of the thread or is there meant to be some give? If I look at the other side (unmolested until I've put the driver's side back together) this only has a short section of thread showing at the top...the new links are identical to the old...I couldn't find any pics or guide on this particular topic.. Many thanks as always... Last edited by Umski; Jul 21st, 2018 at 13:32. |
Jul 21st, 2018, 13:35 | #2 |
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Jul 22nd, 2018, 19:30 | #3 | |
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Jul 22nd, 2018, 19:45 | #4 |
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Just done this job with Delphi parts. The nuts are Nylocs and you tighten them down until 5 - 7mm of thread protrude above the top of the nut. If you tighten them all the way down you'll split the rubber bushes.
HTH Tim Last edited by flyingtech55; Jul 22nd, 2018 at 19:49. Reason: Grammatical error |
Jul 22nd, 2018, 21:25 | #5 |
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Depends on the application I suppose.
Never done them on the volvo but on other applications they definitely need doing up all the way. The bushes need quite a lot of compression to pre-load them. After all they are doing quite a lot of work. I guess if the part is universal then maybe you shouldn't do them all the way. If they are specific to the vehicle then I would think there wouldn't be more thread than needed. After all, why go to the bother of machining extra thread on there if its not required? If the bushes look like they will split then I would suggest that perhaps the quality is not up to scratch!
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Jul 22nd, 2018, 21:48 | #6 |
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The specification is 3 -5mm of thread showing above the nut.
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Jul 23rd, 2018, 09:26 | #7 |
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Good....I'm glad I did it right then. I went for 5mm. I've got a little 5mm depth gauge thingy. It means they're the same both sides. Whew!
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Jul 23rd, 2018, 11:01 | #8 |
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Thanks folks - sorry I didn't get a chance to update. I watched the video posted by aldred309uk and it seems my intuition was correct in the end as I'd already done the driver's side and started on the passenger (much easier the second time) - now confirmed by others too that tightening all the way is a bit too far - I have a few mm showing at the top as they were before - I'm going to double check this as although the knock seems to have gone, I've become over-sensitive to odd noises and I reckon something else may need replacing, possibly the big arm bush or lower (short) arm (I did the tops a couple of year's back)...
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Jul 23rd, 2018, 13:49 | #9 |
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Be aware...renewing the bush in the end of the trailing arm is a non-trivial job. The outer part of the bush is plastic and you can't just press it in. I don't know how Volvo do it but they must have a special tool of some kind to compress the bush prior to inserting it. The part that looks like the sleeve of the bush is actually part of the arm.
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Jul 23rd, 2018, 14:35 | #10 | |
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