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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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Heater Control Valve- HELP!Views : 1323 Replies : 18Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Mar 23rd, 2019, 15:27 | #11 |
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Location: Blyth, Northumberland
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I replaced the valve on my 1992, 940, RHD, no AC back in 2008 and was fortunate to obtain an OE part 9447892. I posted a detailed right up in a previous thread but I’ve been trying for the last hour to find it. I stumbled across it then lost it again.
IIRC the valve itself only has one operating lever. The valve is located in a “housing”. The second cable should be the air distribution cable. It connects to a lever on the “housing” which operates a cam which operates the air distribution flaps. You may have to find a way of mounting the original housing back into the bulkhead for air distribution control and the non standard valve by some other means. Sorry cannot help any more. Am I correct in assuming that it is the valve itself which is NLA and you still have the original valve housing which locates into the bulkhead? I found my post but don’t know how to move it into this thread so I’ve had to bump the entire thread, sorry. Last edited by Ian21401; Mar 23rd, 2019 at 15:53. Reason: Add text |
Mar 23rd, 2019, 20:37 | #12 |
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Ian, that's amazing, thank you so much! As far as I'm aware the 'housing' should be fine, the valve is leaking slightly and that's the only issue.
Also unbelievably you're just up the road in Blyth too, I'm in Chester-le-Street. Either way, with much trepidation tomorrow I will attempt to work out an alternative to the leaking heater control valve of much unobtanium. Bits assembled... SAM_7889 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/152293344@N05/] Parts are as follows: 1 X Aftermarket Mk1 Golf heater control valve (Meyle) 1 X Kit Car brass bodied heater control valve 2 X 500mm of 16mm ID/23mm OD heater hose 4 X 16mm OD straight junctions 2 X 90 degree 16mm OD elbows 1 X 23mm ID large bush A plethora of decent hose clips and spring clamps of the correct size Total spend is circa £45 so less then half of what a replacement valve would have costed if they still existed, and they don't so I've got nothing to loose really... I'm not sure which valve I'll go with although I like the idea of a brass jobbie as opposed to plastic, I'm also unsure whether I'll aim to fit the new valve in the original location behind the clutch pedal or look to relocate it in the engine bay which on the face of it might make more sense. RE cables, I work with a chap who restores 60's motorbikes, he's agreed to extend and/or fabricate a cable to run from the heater control in the cabin should some modification be required so that's that sorted. Either way I've got no choice other than to give it a go, what could possibly go wrong? Last edited by LPTJoe; Mar 23rd, 2019 at 20:43. |
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Mar 24th, 2019, 13:59 | #13 |
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Last Online: Feb 11th, 2023 20:32
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Location: Blyth, Northumberland
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A Thought.
Not sure if this would work, but, is it feasible to refit the old valve and it’s housing in the original position in the bulkhead but without the heater hoses attached? That would enable you to connect that second cable and retain the air distribution as standard. Then locate the new operational non standard valve somewhere else. I’ve probably missed something there as I do not have sight of the original set up.
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Mar 24th, 2019, 17:38 | #14 |
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I got the 240 valve to work on my 940 by removing the little arm that attaches to the cable for the 940 one (very tricky procedure but doable), pipe that fits through the firewall was a little short , but just got a pipe on a squeezed through..
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Mar 24th, 2019, 19:32 | #15 |
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The Volvo is now almost sorted after cobbling things together.
Clutch pedal had to come out as mentioned... SAM_7892 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/152293344@N05/] After that the slave cylinder and mounting bracket for the pedal were also removed giving better access to the control valve as can be seen here in this sweaty potato cam shot (Yes, that was the best I could do)... SAM_7905 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/152293344@N05/] As Ian promised, there's a kind of plastic housing that sits in front of the original valve, it's responsible for operating the the two cables. The upper cable with an eyelet appears to operate a flap somewhere in the vent system as when working it back and forth a definite 'thunk' sound can be heard as a vent opens/closes, the lower cable is controlled by the temperature dial in the cabin and operates the valve itself opening and closing it to allow hot coolant to flow through. The process from this point on was a bit of a pain for a number of reasons really. Neither of the two valves offered pipework of a sufficient length to reach far enough through the firewall to connect a hose to. Luckily I spotted a bung/blank just underneath the original recess, I removed said bung, made a 20mm hole in the middle and worked the hose from the bay snuggly through it and into the cabin. Here you can see the new valve in situ, look slightly above the valve and it's also clear to see the small hole left over from the old valves original location (I shall source a bung for the hole ASAP)... SAM_7922 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/152293344@N05/] To compound matters both of the valves had clamps for the cables located on the wrong side, meaning that if I'd used them it would have left me with the cold setting blowing hot and the hot setting blowing cold, also the upper cable is too short to reach the valve in it's new location. All in all a day of multiple niggles as mentioned, however I can now adjust the heat manually by reaching under and moving the valve, it works well an most importantly it doesn't leak and as such will stop the steady stream of antifreeze to the footwell! If I was lazy I could simply leave the valve as it is without the cables attached and adjust the valve to 'hot' through the winter and then back to 'cold' for the summer. Frankly I can't live like that though, so my next task will be to devise a system to make the cables work as they should, after that it's job jobbed. |
Mar 24th, 2019, 20:40 | #16 |
bob12
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What can I say other than 'well done' and thanks for the write-up.
You seem to have achieved the impossible and nothing like what I imagined was a moderately easy job. It looks like you were able to use the Ford Escort valve? If I have to do it on my 745 I would hope it is not so complex!! Thanks again - Bob. |
Mar 24th, 2019, 20:54 | #17 |
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The valve used was the Mk1 Golf item, for no other reason that I lost my temper when fitting the brass valve and damaged it.
It's a thoroughly unpleasant job and not one I'd like to repeat, fingers crossed you don't have to but if you do then hopefully the early cars are easier. |
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Mar 24th, 2019, 20:57 | #18 |
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Well done LPTjoe. That should be a “how to” to be filed for the future. I’m sure you and your motor cycle friend will sort some control cabling out in due course.
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Mar 25th, 2019, 06:38 | #19 | |
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Quote:
Once I'm done I shall probably clean up the text and construct/post a separate 'how to' then get the mods to sticky it, this is required desperately as Haynes offers two lines on the control valve (Useless) and there doesn't seem to be one anywhere else having scoured the web for days on end. |
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